Just something I was wondering about yesterday.

Is it possible to install ARP head studs without removing the head?

I mean, what if you did one at a time, removed the head bolt, installed the head stud, and torqued it down, then moved to the next one. Could you do this?

It would save the time and cost of draining and refilling the oil and coolant, and also save the cost of a new head gasket.

Anyways, I was just wondering if anyone has done it this way before?

I was thinking it might warp the head, but if you did one at a time and torqued them down as you went, then that one section wouldn't warp would it?

 

I was doing just that... got almost done... and found that my back middle spot was stripped... and never finished Otherwise I could tell you how it worked.

The only issue with doing one at a time is the possibility of warping stuff... but honestly... with all the other bolts tight and around it... i'd be suprised to see that happen. Heck I drove that motor NA for a few thousand more miles missing that back middle bolt... and no issues

 

Yes it's possible, but you should replace the headgasket since you broke the seal.

 

we did it on the PeakBoost evo and now shes holding 30psi on a PHX42...

i made sure to overtq a bit, 40/70/100ftlbs, heatcycle, 40/70/100 again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ken Peak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we did it on the PeakBoost evo and now shes holding 30psi on a PHX42...

i made sure to overtq a bit, 40/70/100ftlbs, heatcycle, 40/70/100 again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha.. sweet!

Talk about a money saver.

When I installed them on my first setup I removed the head and even had it resurfaced before I put it all back together. This would have saved me quite a bit of time and money!

 

I've done it on a friends 2G DSM. It has held 30+ PSI on a 60-trim.