need help, car died
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need help, car died
so i'm driving down the highway last night and all of a sudden, the engine dies. i wasn't driving hard, just cruising. the engine cranks but won't turn over. i tried charging the battery as well as jumping it and i get nothing. anyone have any suggestions i can try to look at before i tow it to a mechanic and get screwed? my bro-in-law suggested it might be the timing belt but i just changed it about a year and a half to two years ago. i'm going to check it anyway but does anyone have anything else i might be able to check? the car wasn't hesitating or sputtering, it was driving normal. thanks for any help.
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If it cranks - but won't start - check your fuel pump. Check the relay first. If that doens't work - try unplugging vacuum hose on the intake manifold, and try to start it.
spark, fuel, and compression my son - check.
spark, fuel, and compression my son - check.
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Re: (TheKingPin)
ok, where is the relay and how would i check it? i have a 96 si.
edit ---> i read on another topic that if you hear that sucking sound followed by a click when you turn the key to the on position without cranking it, the relay is good.
Modified by cyco at 11:45 AM 11/16/2005
Modified by cyco at 3:09 PM 11/17/2005
edit ---> i read on another topic that if you hear that sucking sound followed by a click when you turn the key to the on position without cranking it, the relay is good.
Modified by cyco at 11:45 AM 11/16/2005
Modified by cyco at 3:09 PM 11/17/2005
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Re: (cyco)
turn your key to the on position does your check engine light come on for 2 sec then turn off? if not its probably your main relay.
the other thing is it could be your ignitor inside the dizzy. check to see if you are getting spark and the t belt is lined up. and you are getting fuel.
the other thing is it could be your ignitor inside the dizzy. check to see if you are getting spark and the t belt is lined up. and you are getting fuel.
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Re: (kulrevon)
i hope it's not the ignitor, i had it go bad on me about 3 years ago. mechanic charged me a couple hundred to fix it. how would i check to see if that is the prob? is there a trick to check the spark? i seem to remember a way of checking for spark by using the spark plug wires and the valve cover, is that right?
#7
Re: (cyco)
i would check the distributor, same thing happened to me one day (my car died in the middle of an intersection) and i believe it had something to do with that.
Modified by 5th gen ludette at 12:40 PM 11/17/2005
Modified by 5th gen ludette at 12:40 PM 11/17/2005
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Re: need help, car died (AndyD)
the timing belt has not been visually confirmed as intact but the pistons move so i'm guessing that it is ok. however if i have no spark, what is the next course of action?
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Re: (cyco)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cyco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hope it's not the ignitor, i had it go bad on me about 3 years ago. mechanic charged me a couple hundred to fix it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW.. You payed someone a couple hundred to fix your dizzy?? You can get one for a little over a hundred for a rebuilt one anyways..
WOW.. You payed someone a couple hundred to fix your dizzy?? You can get one for a little over a hundred for a rebuilt one anyways..
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Re: (MLBZ521)
that is exactly why i don't want to take my car to a mechanic if i can avoid it. right now it seems like i have no spark and possibly no gas gettig to my engine...
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Re: (cyco)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLBZ521 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WOW.. You payed someone a couple hundred to fix your dizzy?? You can get one for a little over a hundred for a rebuilt one anyways.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
where? autozone just quoted me @$200 rebuilt and @$400 new
WOW.. You payed someone a couple hundred to fix your dizzy?? You can get one for a little over a hundred for a rebuilt one anyways.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
where? autozone just quoted me @$200 rebuilt and @$400 new
#14
Re: need help, car died (cyco)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cyco »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the timing belt has not been visually confirmed as intact but the pistons move so i'm guessing that it is ok. however if i have no spark, what is the next course of action? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The pistions moving aren't going to tell you if the timing belt is broke. take off your distributor cap, have someone crank the engine while you watch the distributor rotor. if it spins then the timing belt should be intact.
I would check the timing belt first.
You can get an ignition checker thing, that connects to your plug wires and lights up if there is spark. They sell them at Harbor Freight, you should be able to find one too at Auto Zone.
You can try e-bay for a rebuilt distributor if you need one. An ignitor can be replaced alone if you needed that.
Anyhow don't be afraid to work on your car. Good Luck.
The pistions moving aren't going to tell you if the timing belt is broke. take off your distributor cap, have someone crank the engine while you watch the distributor rotor. if it spins then the timing belt should be intact.
I would check the timing belt first.
You can get an ignition checker thing, that connects to your plug wires and lights up if there is spark. They sell them at Harbor Freight, you should be able to find one too at Auto Zone.
You can try e-bay for a rebuilt distributor if you need one. An ignitor can be replaced alone if you needed that.
Anyhow don't be afraid to work on your car. Good Luck.
#15
you can always just pull out a plug, put the wire back on it, and ground it, then try to crank....just keep your distance....
if you get no spark then check the distributor and coil and all the wires....and pull out all the spark plugs and make sure they are in good shape and tight in place....
if you do get spark, then crack a fuel line open and make sure you have fuel pressure, it will spray a good bit if you have good pressure....
if you dont have fuel pressure, check the main relay, fuel pump and ecu fuses
if you do have fuel pressure, and spark, then do check ignition timing and the timing belt, pull the valve cover off and turn the motor until the cam gear arrows are both pointing up, make sure they line up good....
you could have bad injectors or something but i seriously doubt that
if they dont, you have a timing belt problem, and im sure you know how to go about that....
if they do line up, then your last resort is making sure you have good compression.....get the compression tester out....
if you have fuel pressure, spark, compression, and good plugs, and if none of that fixes it you may have a bad ecu or injectors, but let us know how that goes....
if you get no spark then check the distributor and coil and all the wires....and pull out all the spark plugs and make sure they are in good shape and tight in place....
if you do get spark, then crack a fuel line open and make sure you have fuel pressure, it will spray a good bit if you have good pressure....
if you dont have fuel pressure, check the main relay, fuel pump and ecu fuses
if you do have fuel pressure, and spark, then do check ignition timing and the timing belt, pull the valve cover off and turn the motor until the cam gear arrows are both pointing up, make sure they line up good....
you could have bad injectors or something but i seriously doubt that
if they dont, you have a timing belt problem, and im sure you know how to go about that....
if they do line up, then your last resort is making sure you have good compression.....get the compression tester out....
if you have fuel pressure, spark, compression, and good plugs, and if none of that fixes it you may have a bad ecu or injectors, but let us know how that goes....
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Re: (mgags7)
so i think i found the problem....
btw, you'd think if you took a car to the mechanic and asked him to check the axles and boots for a problem they'd see something wrong in this pic ( fukin guys at the firestone on 87th and coral way in miami, don't ever go there)
here is the other end that was hanging near the drivers' side hub...
and finally an above shot of where it plugs into...
so it is my opinion that this is why i am getting no fuel and no spark to my car. the yellow and blue wires seem to be too short to resplice back together without taking off the timing belt cover, does anyone know for sure what these wires are, where they come from?
btw, you'd think if you took a car to the mechanic and asked him to check the axles and boots for a problem they'd see something wrong in this pic ( fukin guys at the firestone on 87th and coral way in miami, don't ever go there)
here is the other end that was hanging near the drivers' side hub...
and finally an above shot of where it plugs into...
so it is my opinion that this is why i am getting no fuel and no spark to my car. the yellow and blue wires seem to be too short to resplice back together without taking off the timing belt cover, does anyone know for sure what these wires are, where they come from?
#17
oh yea that will do it.....thats the crank trigger, the main signal to the ecu of when to fire spark....
ill get you a new part number off a website.....ill be back in about 5 min...oh wow....the part is like $190.....you may be able to find one for sale on here....its called the "CKP and TDC sensor" (crankshaft position and top dead center sensors)
if i had one for you you could have it for like 50 bucks......ill take a look, i just may.....
edit: i dont reccomend splicing those wires back together....that is a high oil exposure area, nothing short of good wire housing is gonna keep corrosion out of there...i really think i have a sensor for you....gimme a few days to look
ill get you a new part number off a website.....ill be back in about 5 min...oh wow....the part is like $190.....you may be able to find one for sale on here....its called the "CKP and TDC sensor" (crankshaft position and top dead center sensors)
if i had one for you you could have it for like 50 bucks......ill take a look, i just may.....
edit: i dont reccomend splicing those wires back together....that is a high oil exposure area, nothing short of good wire housing is gonna keep corrosion out of there...i really think i have a sensor for you....gimme a few days to look
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