Anyone ever used these vision adjustable upper ball joint negative a -arm control arms?
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...1c3c6
I'm thinking i may want them for roadcourse car for ease of adjustment and more negative than the other kits available. I'm maxed out and need more now.
I thought of making my own but am unwilling to cut up a new skunk2 set and have not been able to locate the correct ball joint to build my own

 

Yikes........that's lots of $$$$

How about SPC?

 

Ya no kidding that why i'd like to know if anyone has tried em. If the nuts that hold the ball joint loosen i don't want em.

 

try this cheaper $$$, i have no experience with these but was thinking of picking up a set has anyone used them?
http://www.truckn-store.com/pr...89860

 

They look pretty neat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super79Dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya no kidding that why i'd like to know if anyone has tried em. If the nuts that hold the ball joint loosen i don't want em. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been using them for 2 years on my EF hatch SM autocross car. 225/45-15 Hoosiers A3S04s and 225/50-15 Kumho V710s. They've never slipped. I am currently down to 3 bolts on one side, as the head broke off one of them in the spring and I've yet to take it apart to fix it.

No problems whatsoever. I was originally only able to get a minimum of 3.2 degrees of negative camber (could have gone to 4 degrees plus if I wanted to). I have since modded them to allow adjustment down to 2.5 degrees and now modded the knuckle to allow adjustment down to 2 degrees or less.

 

Thanks good to hear and opinion. You arm using the AIM ones or the Vision ones i originally found?
I'm cheap i like the price of the AIM better. May just end up going with the balljoint but would like to play around a bit. I'm putting the car on the alignment rack on thursday to see how much camber i have now. I know that i need a min of 3 degrees and would like to be able to adjust for -4 to -2 degrees if possible with ease for quick adjustment.

 

yeah which ones are you using

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah which ones are you using</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry boys, I'm using Vision. The stock Vision arms won't be able to go as low as 2 degrees negative (depending on how low your car is). The minimum camber you'll be able to get is about 3.2 degrees with a 2 1/2" drop on the car.

 

Thanks that good to know that would be my max with that kind of drop
Heres a little more info
1989 honda civic Dx si motor trans etc.. Roadcourse car
koni yellows eibach springs 2.5" drop
205/50R15 toyo proxes RA1
If the vision ones don't rub with that setup i think i'll bite the bullet and buy the arms.

 

Rub where? The arm on the top of the chassis, or the tire on the fender? The arm does not hit the chassis on the outside of the arm where the balljoint is attached, but it hits on the inside of the arm where the balljoint is.

If your tires rub, flare you fenders. Thats what I did:

 

Fenders already flared. Did you have to clearance the inner fender lip with the vision arm?
https://honda-tech.com/gara...=4145

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super79Dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Did you have to clearance the inner fender lip with the vision arm?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you mean the joint/lip between the inner fender/engine compartment and the inner fender/frame rail, nope!

 

Super;

I have to assume that when you say that you don't want to cut up a set of Skunk2 arms, you have seen my page where I made up arms.

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

I really don't understand why you don't just to it!!

The visions arms are $460. The Skunk2 arms (for a 92) are $190 (from Lightning motorsport).

If you look real close at the photo of the Vision arms you will notice that there is an "L" stamped in one. Unless I'm wrong, it's due to the fact that they just cut up a stock set of arms and that stamp is what the original manufacturer (Honda) put there. (look at your original arms and you will see an "L" or "R" stamped in them)

The method of bolting the ball joint on the arm is better on the "new design" skunk2 arms than how Vision is doing it.

Then there is the fact that you can configure them to any camber (at the center of adjustment) you want. Heck, you could also add (or subtract) some of caster.

Wes

 

i can burn through 3 sets of tires before it costs me as much as those UCA's, Screw that.

 

Yep i did see your page it's in my bookmarks hence plan 3. you noted however that you still had some clearance issues after cutting up the skunk 2 arms. more info?
As for burning up tires you must run some cheap tires Toyo proxes Ra1 172.00ea Canadian. i think i'll tune my car and save my tires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try this cheaper $$$, i have no experience with these but was thinking of picking up a set has anyone used them?
http://www.truckn-store.com/pr...89860</TD></TR></TABLE>


SO has anyone used these????

 

Super;

The truth is that I never mounted them on my car due to the fact that it's at a fairly stock height (and doesn't need them). I gave them to Tyson and he had some friend that wanted to run them. I haven't heard anything from them since.

The comment on "clearance issues" has to deal with the inner fender section. The stock arm is short enough to fit within a "pocket".

If I was to build a car that was low enough to warrant the arms, I'd box the upper frame section to clear the arms. If you are racing, you should first check out the rules!

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. They were easy to build and the only real costly tool is the MIG welder. The cost difference between the original Skunk2 arms and the Visions is about 50% of the cost of the welder. In other words, it's a good justification to buy a welder!!!!!

Wes

 

i heard that even though you have camber on your tires,it will wear normally as long as the toe is ok...

 

1reno_ef;

I don't see anything technically wrong with the arms that you provided the link to but you should check out their "technical page" about them. There is a comment about having to trim the inner fender!!

What also seems strange is that they don't show a ball joint??!! Do you have to source the ball joint from somewhere else??

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1reno_ef;

I don't see anything technically wrong with the arms that you provided the link to but you should check out their "technical page" about them. There is a comment about having to trim the inner fender!!

What also seems strange is that they don't show a ball joint??!! Do you have to source the ball joint from somewhere else??

Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have not looked into these control arms much I just saw someone up top post these up and wanted to know if anyone had used these....

My buddy has a like a 3 inch drop with the SPC ball Joints but he had clearance issues with his fender well also...

 

OK here's the consenus
Vision arms expensive you have to clearance the inner fender a bit
bolts come loose upgrade the hardware
Aim arms (crap) no more to be said
Ball joints ok not enough adjustment have to clearance inner fender
Inner arm adjusters not enough adjustment but no clearance issues.
Skunk2 modified arms clearance issue gotta build your own.


OK here's my final decision i think. Put the car on the rack and checked how much camber i have with the drop i have came out to 1.87degrees. i think if i get the
inner adjuster with max adjustment i should be ok. It'll be a pain in the *** to adjust all the time but i have time in between races.
I have chosen this route as a durability issue i can't afford to have hardware come loose while racing.
I'll use the inner adjusters and i think i'll build my own skunk2 design and try them later. As i already have the mig welder
Thanks for all your input