due to a mis-shift #2 cylinder has low compression, engine chugs at idle, ideas/comments?
Its my freinds 94 del sol VTEC. b16 head, gsr bottom end. Car runs on motor only, no FI/nitrous.
He apparently did the uber excellent 3rd to 2nd gear shift after winding out 3rd.
At idle it chugs a bit, once you rev it up, it runs smoother and seems 100% fine. I pulled #2 plug wire while at idle, no change, pulled all the other plugs one at a time and the engine changed per plug, so i now knew #2 wasnt making power. I checked for spark, changed plugs, injector is firing, everything is fine in that aspect. I did a compression test.
200-200-150-200. Has a new head gasket with copper spray not even 500 miles ago.
What does everyone think before i go and pull the head? I think valves kissed the piston, bent valves, and not forming a proper seal. I did a comp test after the HG instal it was 200 across all four.
--just wanted to hear from you guys before i pull the head. If i see marks on the piston,,, ding ding ding, we have a winner. Otherwise, maybe i am overlooking or forgot to check one thing.
He apparently did the uber excellent 3rd to 2nd gear shift after winding out 3rd.
At idle it chugs a bit, once you rev it up, it runs smoother and seems 100% fine. I pulled #2 plug wire while at idle, no change, pulled all the other plugs one at a time and the engine changed per plug, so i now knew #2 wasnt making power. I checked for spark, changed plugs, injector is firing, everything is fine in that aspect. I did a compression test.
200-200-150-200. Has a new head gasket with copper spray not even 500 miles ago.
What does everyone think before i go and pull the head? I think valves kissed the piston, bent valves, and not forming a proper seal. I did a comp test after the HG instal it was 200 across all four.
--just wanted to hear from you guys before i pull the head. If i see marks on the piston,,, ding ding ding, we have a winner. Otherwise, maybe i am overlooking or forgot to check one thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think valves kissed the piston, bent valves, and not forming a proper seal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. Are you receiving code 72 from the CEL? (That may be OBDII only.)
I agree. Are you receiving code 72 from the CEL? (That may be OBDII only.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What does everyone think before i go and pull the head? I think valves kissed the piston, bent valves, and not forming a proper seal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably, a leakdown test will verify.
What does everyone think before i go and pull the head? I think valves kissed the piston, bent valves, and not forming a proper seal.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably, a leakdown test will verify.
No CEL's at all. Happened maybe 6 miles ago according to my friend. Been limping it around till i looked at it, in which i told him to park it.
Another thing, when i pulled that plug, it was black and kinda wet, smelt like gas a wee bit. Any ideas on that?
Another thing, when i pulled that plug, it was black and kinda wet, smelt like gas a wee bit. Any ideas on that?
It must be OBDII that recognizes misfires.
At low RPM, the compression ratio is horrible in cylinder 2 due to bent exhaust valves allowing the intake charge to leak out. Therefore, the fuel is not properly burning at idle, which leads to the carbon and fuel on the plug. The car seems to run better at higher RPM because the intake charge doen't have time to leak past the exhaust valves before it is ignited.
At low RPM, the compression ratio is horrible in cylinder 2 due to bent exhaust valves allowing the intake charge to leak out. Therefore, the fuel is not properly burning at idle, which leads to the carbon and fuel on the plug. The car seems to run better at higher RPM because the intake charge doen't have time to leak past the exhaust valves before it is ignited.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
At low RPM, the compression ratio is horrible in cylinder 2 due to bent exhaust valves allowing the intake charge to leak out. Therefore, the fuel is not properly burning at idle, which leads to the carbon and fuel on the plug. The car seems to run better at higher RPM because the intake charge doen't have time to leak past the exhaust valves before it is ignited.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly what i was thinking... kinda threw me for a loop for a wee bit, but now im 100% thats the issue at hand. Head comes off tonight! Pics soon! HAHA
At low RPM, the compression ratio is horrible in cylinder 2 due to bent exhaust valves allowing the intake charge to leak out. Therefore, the fuel is not properly burning at idle, which leads to the carbon and fuel on the plug. The car seems to run better at higher RPM because the intake charge doen't have time to leak past the exhaust valves before it is ignited.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly what i was thinking... kinda threw me for a loop for a wee bit, but now im 100% thats the issue at hand. Head comes off tonight! Pics soon! HAHA
There won't be much to see until you look at the head angles on the cylinder #2 exhaust valves; give them a nice roll on a flat surface. I'm guessing that his valves are only slightly bent since only one cylinder was affected. There will be little if any marks on piston #2. Regardless, it's still a hassle. Good luck!
Trending Topics
pulled the head in 34 minutes with hands tools.
Yes i timed it, haha.
No markings on the pistons or valves, so i was a little worried that there could be some other phantom problem... Untill i put a light on the business end of the valve faces and looked through the exhaust port. I SAW THE LIGHT!!!
haha. **** was soo tweaked with no cams obviously all the valves will be shut, on #2 i could see the light through the area where the valve shroud should seat against the cylinder head. 
time for new valves.
Yes i timed it, haha.
No markings on the pistons or valves, so i was a little worried that there could be some other phantom problem... Untill i put a light on the business end of the valve faces and looked through the exhaust port. I SAW THE LIGHT!!!
haha. **** was soo tweaked with no cams obviously all the valves will be shut, on #2 i could see the light through the area where the valve shroud should seat against the cylinder head. 
time for new valves.
wow i hnever heard of that way to check for bent valves...you should also try putting the head either exhaust runner side up/ intake up and pour some kind of liquid into the runner then check for any escaping from the valve seals..you might have more valves that are slightly bent to where light wont shine though..better safe than sorry you know..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pulled the head in 34 minutes with hands tools.
Yes i timed it, haha.
No markings on the pistons or valves, so i was a little worried that there could be some other phantom problem... Untill i put a light on the business end of the valve faces and looked through the exhaust port. I SAW THE LIGHT!!!
haha. **** was soo tweaked with no cams obviously all the valves will be shut, on #2 i could see the light through the area where the valve shroud should seat against the cylinder head. 
time for new valves.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also check over the valve guides to make sure that they are in good shape.. I did this to my prelude once and all the exhaust valve guides were cracked..
Yes i timed it, haha.
No markings on the pistons or valves, so i was a little worried that there could be some other phantom problem... Untill i put a light on the business end of the valve faces and looked through the exhaust port. I SAW THE LIGHT!!!
haha. **** was soo tweaked with no cams obviously all the valves will be shut, on #2 i could see the light through the area where the valve shroud should seat against the cylinder head. 
time for new valves.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Also check over the valve guides to make sure that they are in good shape.. I did this to my prelude once and all the exhaust valve guides were cracked..
Well. I gunned my 98 Civic today and i stopped at a light, and the whole car was jerking. does it less in lower gear (automatic) but at driving speeds and idling it does it. wants to die at idle as well. i'm thinking cap and rotor? Check Engine light is also on. any help? thx
Best way I know to check is what was mentioned above, have the head sitting level with the combustion chamber side up and have the spark plugs in and tight. Pour alcohol or gas or whatever into the combustion chamber and see what leaks past and how fast.. If you have any valves not seating properly you will know it.. Hope this helps
quit driving the car...if you bent valves there is a chance one could break and really screw things up. pull the head and have it fixed before you end up costing yourself a lot more money.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DeCoY
Acura Integra
5
Jun 21, 2017 02:45 PM





