A friend and I are arguing which is better. I'm saying plain rotors with good pads and brake fluid, he says cross drilled and slotted with good brake fluid and pads. I thought I'd come in here and get some fresh replies from people who frequent the autocross track or do road race.

So, whats your choice of rotors and why.

Thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A friend and I are arguing which is better. I'm saying plain rotors with good pads and brake fluid, he says cross drilled and slotted with good brake fluid and pads. I thought I'd come in here and get some fresh replies from people who frequent the autocross track or do road race.

So, whats your choice of rotors and why.

Thanks guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

rotors= wear item cheapest, most dispencable part is the winner

I don't think the cross drilled and sloted have any of the above mentioned so the plain would be better.

if you searched this has been covered alot, numerous times, i think i even asked it my self once

 

My choice?

Search function.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=894745
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=712177
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=655608
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=527628
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=334640
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=254818

There's more, but my cut and paste fingers were getting tired. You should get the point by now.

 

I actually did a search but for some reason, I had my name typed in by "Creator."

Yeah... I'm that dumb.

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually did a search but for some reason, I had my name typed in by "Creator."

Yeah... I'm that dumb.

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even though you asked this exact same question not too long ago?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1039309

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Even though you asked this exact same question not too long ago?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1039309</TD></TR></TABLE>

****... For some reason I thought I asked that on a Mustang board, I actually searched for that

Nice...

 

int3rw3b &gt; k00k.

Plain rotors. Holes and slots are just bling on modern production cars with production brakes. If you can prove to me that your pads have an out-gassing problem, then I'll let you run the drilled/slotted bits without a vicious taunting.

 

NASCAR truck series rear brakes


boogidy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">int3rw3b &gt; k00k.

Plain rotors. Holes and slots are just bling on modern production cars with production brakes. If you can prove to me that your pads have an out-gassing problem, then I'll let you run the drilled/slotted bits without a vicious taunting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Blank rotors

I say no to ricer rotors because:
1) less pad contact area (no, the pads do not magically reach into the holes or slots)
2) tears up pads more
3) less strength (yes, even slots reduce the strength)
4) no real benefit
5) too expensive (it's a wear item and road racing goes through rotors like kleenex)
6) the less I have in common with ricers the better

The ricers say to get a big brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors. But the truth is that stock sized blank rotors are fine, because braking performance is really mostly in the pads and the tires. I run blank 10.3" front rotors with Cobalt Spec-B's on a pretty braking intensive track, in a turbo car, and while I have been able to overheat them a few times (no ducts, yet), it's really not a problem. Certainly not even close to justifying larger rotors and the greatly increased cost for new rotors every race weekend. But no amount of logic, explaination, and actual experience is enough for me to convince a determined ricer to not waste his money. The fact that a handful of real racers use them is more than enough justification for a ricer, never mind the fact those racers have totally different cars and totally different rotors from what's available on the rice market, and that they are in the minority.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Blank rotors

I say no to ricer rotors because:
1) less pad contact area (no, the pads do not magically reach into the holes or slots)
2) tears up pads more
3) less strength (yes, even slots reduce the strength)
4) no real benefit
5) too expensive (it's a wear item and road racing goes through rotors like kleenex)
6) the less I have in common with ricers the better

The ricers say to get a big brake kit with drilled and slotted rotors. But the truth is that stock sized blank rotors are fine, because braking performance is really mostly in the pads and the tires. I run blank 10.3" front rotors with Cobalt Spec-B's on a pretty braking intensive track, in a turbo car, and while I have been able to overheat them a few times (no ducts, yet), it's really not a problem. Certainly not even close to justifying larger rotors and the greatly increased cost for new rotors every race weekend. But no amount of logic, explaination, and actual experience is enough for me to convince a determined ricer to not waste his money. The fact that a handful of real racers use them is more than enough justification for a ricer, never mind the fact those racers have totally different cars and totally different rotors from what's available on the rice market, and that they are in the minority.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the caliber responce I wanted Thanks man.

Also, why are Nascar Truck rotors slotted?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, why are Nascar Truck rotors slotted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same reason some Le Mans racecar rotors are. They have few small slots to clean the overheated glaze off the pads after pit-stops (and mid-race full course yellow laps behind the pace car for that matter.)

Keep in mind, their pads and rotors need to last exactly 0.1 miles further than the distance of each race...

Jon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3) less strength (yes, even slots reduce the strength)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absoloutly correct. I helped a guy swap the rotors on his s2000 at the track last weekend because BOTH front slotted rotors had giant cracks originating at the top of the rotor/slot and going all the way accross the face. We installed new solid rotors as replacements. He asked me what he should do to prevent his rotors from cracking like that, and I told him to stick w/ solid rotors.

 

Something to think about when it comes to upgrading brakes, which always gets mentioned in these threads:

If you can lock up your tires, or get into ABS, then your brakes are plenty powerful enough, and you need to look at upgrading tires and/or suspension. If your brakes aren't strong enough to lock up a set of street tires, then you probably just need some rebuilt calipers, new (or freshly turned) blank rotors, some decent pads, or some new tires. Nothing more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also, why are Nascar Truck rotors slotted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's an issue of feel. Slotted and scallop cut rotor clean the face of the pad and allow the driver a little more initial bite which adds to his sensation of feel at the brake pedal - it's better feel, not better performance. Remeber that on a big dollar racecar the rotors are swapped between practice session, qualifying sessions and the actual race; that's 3 rotor changes /day and 6 per weekend (if not more.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something to think about when it comes to upgrading brakes, which always gets mentioned in these threads:

If you can lock up your tires, or get into ABS, then your brakes are plenty powerful enough, and you need to look at upgrading tires and/or suspension. If your brakes aren't strong enough to lock up a set of street tires, then you probably just need some rebuilt calipers, new (or freshly turned) blank rotors, some decent pads, or some new tires. Nothing more. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's an issue of feel. Slotted and scallop cut rotor clean the face of the pad and allow the driver a little more initial bite which adds to his sensation of feel at the brake pedal - it's better feel, not better performance. Remeber that on a big dollar racecar the rotors are swapped between practice session, qualifying sessions and the actual race; that's 3 rotor changes /day and 6 per weekend (if not more.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. I think most of us here go through front rotors once per race weekend at a cost of around $45 for a front pair, which most car enthusiests think is pretty excessive. Now imagine 6 times that, and at a much higher cost each time... it takes a pretty healthy budget to be able to do that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something to think about when it comes to upgrading brakes, which always gets mentioned in these threads:

If you can lock up your tires, or get into ABS, then your brakes are plenty powerful enough, and you need to look at upgrading tires and/or suspension. If your brakes aren't strong enough to lock up a set of street tires, then you probably just need some rebuilt calipers, new (or freshly turned) blank rotors, some decent pads, or some new tires. Nothing more. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The only issue I have with that statement is that it overlooks an important aspect of a brake system that's to be used on track or where multiple high speed stops are required; that is, sure, your brakes (pads) may generate enough torque to lock up your tires, but can they do so repeatedly without fading?
We all know tires stop the car, so if that part of the equation is sorted by using a requisite "good" tire, then the fundamental issue with the brakes is : managing heat - can they cope with the heat turn after turn, lap after lap?
That's a crucial aspect that can get occluded when you don't define the consistency of the braking system after that first "hard" stop.


Modified by bb6h22a at 6:13 PM 1/27/2005

 

Can we have a link to "The Best Brake Rotor Thread EVER"? You know what I'm talking about....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can we have a link to "The Best Brake Rotor Thread EVER"? You know what I'm talking about....</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean the most JANTASTIC, BLINGTASTIC thread of all time?

I'll find it , gimme a little while.

 

AUTOZONE OWNS ME! Albany all the way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can we have a link to "The Best Brake Rotor Thread EVER"? You know what I'm talking about....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ta Da ... Here it is: The Best Brake Rotor Thread EVER!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaddMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can we have a link to "The Best Brake Rotor Thread EVER"? You know what I'm talking about....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is the altima.net thread...

http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html