In comparison with solid rotors, is there a noticable difference in pad wear when slotted rotors/x-drilled are used. If so is it negligible? Thanks.

[EDIT] Reason I ask is, I have a pair of Portefield R4 pads. Before bedding them in, I have the option of using an OEM solid or Brembo slotted and x-drilled rotors. I just want to get the most life out of the R4. Thats all.


[Modified by Raymund, 7:38 PM 11/15/2002]

 

Good question. I was given some cross-drilled rotors for my MG, and put them on during the last brake rebuild. Haven't noticed any increased brake wear with them. Haven't noticed any better braking either.

So the real question is if you need slotted rotors. I haven't had any trouble stopping my reasonably fast but still heavy Civic with R4 pads and Brembo blanks, even during track days with heavy braking. Most of the ECHC guys run solids with no trouble also. If money is so tight you're worried about the expense of pad wear, it might be more worthwhile to sell the slotted, x-drilled rotors and use the extra cash to buy more pads, or better brake fluid.

 

Agreed, from what I gather, using slotted/x rotors will not have any meaningful advantage when used with R4 pads. In my case, the cross-drilled where given to me and I see it as another set of rotors "slotted or not" that I can use. I think, I'll give it a shot.

 

My 96 CX HB has slotted rotora and AEM pads-so far the wear rate is normal and this is the daily car. The Prelude has solid rotors and AEM pads and the wear is very low even after 2 2-day sessions at The Glen and Pocono, where brakes get used a good bit.
There is some evidence that cross-drilled rotors should not be used for track events, dueto potential cracking. Another thing to consider is that the rotors cannot be easily refinished or machined to reduce runout on the hubs-most shops will refuse to try.
It is your call-but I too would stay with solids and a high quality pad. If you need more than the AEM provides then there is Performance Friction and Cobalt along with Porterfield. Just be sure of the compound-talk to them before buying.

 

I find the cross drills eat pads more then slotted. I personally use drilled, but i am most on open track. If you are just doing autocrossing i would say stick to non drilled or slotted rotors as the benefits in solo 2 are not much but if you do track driving i would go drilled, but be prepared to replace more often.

as for benefits of drill or slotted, i can say combine with s.s. lines and upgraded fluid the drilled have out performed the slotted and stock rotors for me, but again track use.

I also find that the best pad for drilled is hawk hp plus.


[Modified by gsr stuie, 3:49 PM 11/16/2002]

 

I find that in a taste test, I like the originals over the low fat kind.

Seriously, slotted rotors are a great way to spend money you don't need to. Brembos are much cheaper, and slotting/crossdrilling only weakens the rotor, and drives the price up, while offering no meaningful advantage whatsoever.

And pad wear was not accellerated at all with any of them that I have seen/tried.


[Modified by madhatter, 11:53 AM 11/20/2002]

 

I've tried them all - solid, slotted, and cross-drilled - and I've kept detailed records of my pad wear (total miles as well as actual track miles). I have not experienced any significant difference in pad life based on the type of rotors used.

I have also not experienced any significant difference in rotor life based on the type of rotors used.

I have recently switched to two-piece Stoptech rotors and am hoping that they last longer due to the floating hats, but not because they are or aren't slotted.