Just letting you know, I searched, but would like more opinions

hello, I recently blew my ringlands on cylinder #1 and #2, I don't know if many of you saw my thread about it or not ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1081870 ).
Anyways, I purchased some used good condition pistons and some new oem rings. The cylinder walls are smooth and clean, not one single scratch.

So I'm just asking if it's absolutely necessary to hone the walls? or is it something I should do since the motor is apart right now and might as well. Also, is the process easy, I searched and found that you just do 12 quick runs up and down.

On other note, I also purchased new acl rod bearings for my b18b1. Is there any sizing to do, or do they just fit right on with no modifying?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to fix my motor myself to save money instead of having my mechanic do it.

Thanks, I would really appreciate the help

 

If the motor is apart, have it honed! I think it would be unwise to not do it!

Honing will help keep the cylinder walls lubricated with oil.

 

when honing, does it make the walls smooth or how? and it won't make the cylinders larger right?

 

i thought honing makes the surface a little rough so that the rings can seat in correctly...

correct me if i am wrong..

 

Honing will only remove the surface blemishes.

It will not make your cylinders larger, If done right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeithsDAteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honing will only remove the surface blemishes.

It will not make your cylinders larger, If done right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

awesome, I wanna keep them standard size.

 

If the crank and everything is out, then I would hone it. Honing cleans up the cylinder and re cross hatches the walls. It will not enlarge the cylinder at all if you use enough lubricant.

 

Just be sure to scrub it clean with soap and water after you are done.

 

Oh, one more thing. After you scrub it with soap and water, put a nice coat of oil over all the friction surfaces. That way you will not develop any rust on those areas.

 

Honing makes the surface of the cylinder walls a little rough so oil can sit in in the little hatch marks to lubricate the rings.

-Aaron

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnydc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the crank and everything is out, then I would hone it. Honing cleans up the cylinder and re cross hatches the walls. It will not enlarge the cylinder at all if you use enough lubricant. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to him he is right^^^^^make sure it has cross hatches
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustROLLIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just be sure to scrub it clean with soap and water after you are done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard of putting soap and water on your cylinder walls but you do need to make sure that they are very clean.

 

thanks for all the input

The crank isn't out and I don't plan to remove it, I just have the pistons/rods out right now, is it still safe to hone like that?

What's the best method to hone? I heard just going up and down 12 quick times is good enough, is that ok or more I should know.

Again, i really appreciate the help

 

I wouldn't run a hone done the cylinder with the crank still in. If you run the hone down to far it may hit the crank and cause some damage. You may also not be able to run the hone down to the bottom with the crank in. I would pull the crank and just keep the bearing sets in separate, numbered bags, that way you can inspect the bearings and be able to put them back into their proper place after you are done.

 

When you bought the bearings did you get the codes off thr block and crank? Honda engines come blueprinted, so each separate journal can be a different sides. The tolerances are very small in the thicknesses of the bearings but they are also life and death of the engine. Not enough clearance between the crank and bearings=oil starvation and spun bearings. I'd check all that out and either mic everything in or use a plastigauge to check clearances.

 

Take the block to a machine shop and have them hone it. If the crank needs to come out they'll take care of it.

The cross-hatch patern left on the bore is what holds the oil on the bore to keep it lubricated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cnydc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't run a hone done the cylinder with the crank still in. If you run the hone down to far it may hit the crank and cause some damage. You may also not be able to run the hone down to the bottom with the crank in. I would pull the crank and just keep the bearing sets in separate, numbered bags, that way you can inspect the bearings and be able to put them back into their proper place after you are done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have not done it from experience dont put your input in

 

I have had it don at a machine shop and have done it myself. HOW WOULD YOU DO IT IF I AM NOT DOING IT RIGHT?
It sounded like he wanted to hone it himself, I took my block to a machine shop and I did the block on my Jeep my self. I don't know everything but the truck runs very good so I am pretty sure I did it right.

 

I don't wanna have to take it to a machine shop, I'd rather do it myself, anymore input?

 

Theres NO need to remove the crank. honing with the crank still in the block is done all the time. just be carefull not to hit the crank while ur honing it.

 

I would pull the crank out just to be safe, this way you can also check the wear on the bearings while everything is apart. When you are honing just make sure to use a lot of lubricant to keep the stones wet. What do you have in mind for lubricant?

 

It can be done with the crank in, but if the engine is out of the car you might as well pull the crank to be safe and to check the bearings. I guess the question i never asked was whether or not the engine was out. OOOPs i should have asked that a while ago before I posted everthing about pulling the crank.

 

yes u can hone it with the crank in place...just put some shop rags over it to keep debri (sp?) off it and, like mentioned before, take care not to hit the crank when u are at ur downward stroke....and use a plastigauge to check the rod bearing clearance by torquing down the bolts....then take em out and measure the clearance. should be at .025 to .038 on all of em. on the plastigauge measuring tape thingy.....you'll be just fine

those bearings have a color on the sides of em, blue, red, pink, brown, yellow, dont know the rest of em....but when u take ur original bearings out, check the colors...it'll help in choosing bearings at the dealer, however what i mentioned above is another method (the method i used).

 

if the motor is out of the car then i would remove the crank and replace the main bearings at the same time. also like the guys above have said, check the clearance on the crank when u install the bearings with plastigauge

 

There are also letters and/or numbers (can't quite remember which) on the block, rods and the crank or caps. These digits in sequence show the code of which bearings were used from the factory. Those give a good ground to start.

 

Where can I get this 'plastigauge'? and what does it do, whats the process?
Also, I already just ordered some acl bearings, but what do you mean by the color codes? Wouldn't all of them be the same? There's a difference between other b18b1's or something?