Ok well I have two questions to ask.

I have been doing some research on e-cutouts and they fall apart. I would like people to say the pros and cons about the one they have on there car, how long they have had there’s and things they did to help longevity. These are the ones I have found.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/
http://www.mccordcg.com/mpp/mpp.htm
http://www.dmhperformance.com/


I’ve heard people saying vibration is a big issue with e-cutouts. Im doing a setup like this. Do you guys think if I put a flex pipe under where the oil pan is on the DP it would help with vibrations?

this is accordfreak pic

thanks
-Aaron


Modified by B18OnTop at 9:08 PM 10/5/2004


Modified by B18OnTop at 12:56 AM 10/6/2004

 

bump

If you look at this thread can you please give it a bump.

 

Well We offer the quicktime ones Through our site.
I personally have one on my daily driver.
I've been using it about 3-4 months now and Had no problems with it other than sealing. I generally Keep it open, I feel Bad when i make my car breathe through the 2" tubing that i setup after the cutout.
From the Situations I have seen, The ones that tend to fallapart are the ones that stay close a majority of the time and Are in a bad spot in the exhuast where there is consideranble amounts of vibration.

I run Solid mounts and the cutout about 8"s off my turbo and there is quite a bit of vibration and Ive taken it off a few times to check it and Eveything is still cool.
I run a Dump on the end of it with no mounts on the turbo or Downpipe.

The flexpipe on that setup seems to be for the WG. I dont see it tied into anything of the Cutout

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18OnTop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok well I have two questions to ask.

I have been doing some research on e-cutouts and they fall apart. I would like people to say the pros and cons about the one they have on there car, how long they have had there’s and things they did to help longevity. These are the ones I have found.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/
http://www.mccordcg.com/mpp/mpp.htm
http://www.dmhperformance.com/


I’ve heard people saying vibration is a big issue with e-cutouts. Im doing a setup like this. Do you guys think if I put a flex pipe under where the oil pan is it would help with vibrations?

thanks
-Aaron


Modified by B18OnTop at 9:08 PM 10/5/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>


hey arron, i had the mccord on my car for 4 months.. i didn't have any problems with it falling apart during that time and it was never stuck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by This One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The flexpipe on that setup seems to be for the WG. I dont see it tied into anything of the Cutout</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don’t think you quite understand me. Maybe I didn’t work it correctly. Putting a flex pipe it the middle of the DP under the oil pan to help vibration.

thank
-Aaron

 

Check this out if your looking at e-cutouts.

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/r...4.htm

kind of a nice idea. It's boost actuated and you only have to run one pipe.

 

Ya i know. I have read all the threads about it.

If you would like to read or comment on it here is the thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=998367

-Aaron

 

E-cutouts.... I would just run open DP IMO

 

heres mine, its a DMH performance, i had BAD problems with the QTP, i think it is a piece of ****

this is also on a 99si turbo, there is room to put one on, it just depends on how creative you are, and i have AC still

 

I think the ATP unit is fundamentally flawed in that since it's boost activated, it will shut in between shifts which would slow down spooling.

I prefer to just have a full 3" turbo back minus cat and be happy. I run the car with open down pipe on the strip.

I'd like to see someone dyno a car with open downpipe vs. 3" turbo back to see how big the difference is. BTW that flex crap will rot out very quickly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boost psycho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the ATP unit is fundamentally flawed in that since it's boost activated, it will shut in between shifts which would slow down spooling.

I prefer to just have a full 3" turbo back minus cat and be happy. I run the car with open down pipe on the strip.

I'd like to see someone dyno a car with open downpipe vs. 3" turbo back to see how big the difference is. BTW that flex crap will rot out very quickly</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want an e-cutout for my car so I can quiet car well I want and still have HP when I open it up. Plus there is a Big problem in AZ this people steeling modded car! I live in AZ nothing rots out here.

-Aaron

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18OnTop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya i know. I have read all the threads about it.

If you would like to read or comment on it here is the thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=998367

-Aaron</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you would like to read or comment on it here is the thread

 

I believe that the DMH unit has a 3 or 4 year warrenty on it. I think that says a lot about their quality and workmenship, although I have never tested one.

Blaze

 

heres some pisc of the very 1st atp cutout on a honda i just installed. BTW i welded up accordfreaks downpipe too while back.

some pics for you to gawk at.











old downpipe

 

Alright, I loved mine when it worked. I had (still have) the mccord power plate. It worked fine for about 2 weeks (I've only had it on for 1 month). Yea, I opened and closed it A LOT, but whatever, that's what it is meant for.

First, the solder on the wire came off, so I re-soldered it, no problem.
Then it began to stick sometimes, I noticed that it got slower opening and closing.
Now, it is closed, and the butterfly plate will swivle freely, and it rattles like a mo fo.
I just contacted Mccord about it, because I thought I saw something about a warranty. If they don't do anything about it, I will go to home depot and design my own motor assembly.

So mine lasted 2 weeks, and I didn't really abuse it, just normal operation.

 

Does that ATP cutout work pretty well?

I've wondered about that boost dependant cutout...

What's the wastegate spring set at?

 

BTW, phil (projectdc2)
did my E-cutout downpipe also, and It couldn't have been better. Deff. have him make you a downpipe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18OnTop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok well I have two questions to ask.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com

I’ve heard people saying vibration is a big issue with e-cutouts. Im doing a setup like this. Do you guys think if I put a flex pipe under where the oil pan is on the DP it would help with vibrations?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the QTP ecutout. It has broken on me twice now. The first time the motor came loose, fell off, bent the shaft and threw all its gears on the road. I sent it back with $30 and it was repaired (out of warranty time) and shipped back. I thought no biggie. Put it back on and not but a day later the butterfly plate shoots out the side exit exhuast unbenounced to me (don't know how i missed that but it must've been cool) - good thing no one got decapitated. I call them up and not but a week later I have a new plate and all the hardware on my doorstep. I have yet to put it back together because I'm not sure if im still going to use it.

Their customer service has been pretty good, not the best, but decent enough I guess. I think all three products are flawed because of the fact that you have no feedback to tell you the valve is open and shutoff the motor. You can be sitting there with your thumb on the switch thinking its not all the way open while in actuality it has hit its mechanical stop and the gears are just torquing up.

Instead of everyone copying one design, someone needs to get original. We don't need anymore than one OBX around here . ATP is on the right track although the product dosen't interest me.

As for the vibration thing, yes that is part of the problem (at least mine). I have used that type of flex pipe and it will not help the situation. The pipe will not "respond" to the frequency of vibration that is causing the problems, it is far too stiff.

So for now, add lots of loctite, lock nuts and washers, and pray for the best :-D.

 

one of the ideas floatin' around in the atp thread....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00n’d Supra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the people saying this is stupid and a ecutout would work better obviously dunno ****

e-cutout open vs closed, it like running 2 completely different setups, therfore needing 2 completely different maps if you want the car to run decent, so either your gonna be tuned with the ecutout closed, or open, so it will either run like **** when its open cuz you are tuned when its closed, or vice versa.

with the atp cutout, its proportinate to your VAC, runs off the same basis as your wastegate, therfore the results are reproducible, meaning it can be tuned properly, normal driving it probably doesnt open, but when u go WOT, it would open up, which is perfect, atleast thats the theory, i dont see why it wouldnt work, its identical to a wastegate setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Look at this Pic of the atp IMO,No offence to the person that owns this car . This is not a very good design. To me that’s just a hole on the side of the exhaust. The exhaust gasses are flowing in a strait line. Then there’s this hole at a right angle in the middle. Most of the gasses are going to keep going strait. But in the pic at the top of the thread. When the cutout is open the gasses go strait out of the DP. No restriction what so ever. And for tuning , I’m running two different maps for the open and closed settings. I plan on keeping the cutout open most of the time.

I think im just going to buy one . If it brakes im going to make my own setup. Im going to try to fab up something like a throttle body that’s cable actuated. But it would be spring loaded. So when you pull the cable it flips closed. Then when you pull the cable again it flips open. I would also weld everything so nothing could vibrate loose. What do you guys think?

And im welding my own DP. I used to work at a machine shop

Thank you for
everyones posts
and opinions

-Aaron

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18OnTop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Look at this Pic of the atp IMO,No offence to the person that owns this car . This is not a very good design. To me that’s just a hole on the side of the exhaust. The exhaust gasses are flowing in a strait line. Then there’s this hole at a right angle in the middle. Most of the gasses are going to keep going strait. But in the pic at the top of the thread. When the cutout is open the gasses go strait out of the DP. No restriction what so ever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

my thoughts exactly.. IMO, you would want your cutout in the straightest path possible, and route the stock exhaust however restrictive way you can, since if you're running a cutout, you obviously are worrying yourself with trying to get the least back pressure from your exhaust system...

mount the cutout in line and route your stock exhaust off to the side..

 

like in the pic at the top of the thread.

-Aaron