welding experts needed...
my threads / bolts are stripped beyond retapping kits aid. i took it to a bodyshop and he welded my hinges onto the chassis of the car without any bolts. he said it's stronger than screws... "mig weld" or something like that. is this true? acppreciate it. thanks
It's stronger alright, but the point of having the bolts is so you can tighten the hinges, close the door, see if it's right, check the gaps, loosen the bolts and adjust, etc. Welding the hinges is a one-shot-deal and if you don't get it perfect the first time, your door gaps will be all assed up (that is IF you get it straight enough to close the door) and you'll never be able to adjust them.
Your best bet would be to cut out the panel with the nuts welded behind it and have a new panel made with nuts welded behind it, then weld that into place.
If you wallet doesn't like that idea and it doesn't sound like you have a problem taking parts off you car, take off the fender and see if you can get to the back side of the nut plate. If so- drill through the existing nuts with a bit big enough for the bolt to pass through, then use longer bolts and Ny-lock nuts (the one with the white plastic nylon ring in one end) to secure the door in place. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts, which you will probably only be able to find in standard thread. This doesn't matter because you're using new nuts anyway, right? So anyway- use the grade 8 bolts (those are the ones that, no matter what color they are painted at the store where you buy them, will have six little indicator marks on the head. Sometimes they're gold colored, sometimes they're blue, sometimes they're purple) The cheapest place to get them is at a farm supply store (Farm and Fleet, Tractor Supply Co, etc) because they're sold by the pound instead of "each."
Good luck!
Edit...
Oops- missed that part about "he already welded...." Well, if that doesn't work out, this should.
Your best bet would be to cut out the panel with the nuts welded behind it and have a new panel made with nuts welded behind it, then weld that into place.
If you wallet doesn't like that idea and it doesn't sound like you have a problem taking parts off you car, take off the fender and see if you can get to the back side of the nut plate. If so- drill through the existing nuts with a bit big enough for the bolt to pass through, then use longer bolts and Ny-lock nuts (the one with the white plastic nylon ring in one end) to secure the door in place. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts, which you will probably only be able to find in standard thread. This doesn't matter because you're using new nuts anyway, right? So anyway- use the grade 8 bolts (those are the ones that, no matter what color they are painted at the store where you buy them, will have six little indicator marks on the head. Sometimes they're gold colored, sometimes they're blue, sometimes they're purple) The cheapest place to get them is at a farm supply store (Farm and Fleet, Tractor Supply Co, etc) because they're sold by the pound instead of "each."
Good luck!
Edit...
Oops- missed that part about "he already welded...." Well, if that doesn't work out, this should.
i cannot do all of that cutting and pasting. it's going to hurt my wallet. the person doing it for me is a personal friend and it's on his spare time. we welded enough to be able to hold the door steady and if it does not align, we can still break them off. i think i need to remove the whole entire dash to get behind it. and he told me you have like 3 sheets of metal so you're not going to get to weld in new nuts. i tried almost everything you listed to the point where my hands sparkle with stripped threads/bolts. pretty much, i just want to know if the mig weld will hold up better than the actual bolts.
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