*Boostwerks*

I'm gunning down Jesse and RLD in terms of weld quality and penetration. I'm not even close yet, but I'll get there.

Unfortunetly my macro wasn't working right so I don't have any close up pics other than the WG flange. everything else came out blurry.

tepid1

You have improved quite a bit Bryson. Have and inside shots of penetration?

tony1

What is your post flow set at? Looks like there's burnt spots every 1/2" or so.

GeeGee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is your post flow set at? Looks like there's burnt spots every 1/2" or so.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe the spots that weren't burn were the result of the post flow which is set on the high side. The weld is so hot it didnt cool down enough before he moves on, hence the burn spot, but when he stop the post flow actually flow long enough to cool down the weld.


..Or I might be wrong and looked like a complete a$$.

Boner_Ben

Are there any advantages or disadvantages from having thick or thin welds? I noticed these are a good bit thicker than some of the first ones you posted up.

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any advantages or disadvantages from having thick or thin welds? I noticed these are a good bit thicker than some of the first ones you posted up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its all really personal preference, as long as you meet the required thickness of a bead. There is a rule of thumb that should be followed though.

Looks good Bryson, besides the post flow.

m R g S r

I feel bad for the WG. . .

*Boostwerks*

Tony, the post flow is set at about 5 seconds, which I think should be enough? There are definetly spots that I burned the weld, but honestly most of those grey areas are just a dark silver (not spidered like an over heated weld). Geegee is correct I think, in that the last parts of the weld I just made would be overheated when I started the puddle again to continue the bead. I was actually getting pretty pissed, because this was consistantly happening eventhough I havn't had this problem before. Should I just be waiting longer before I start the bead? I definetly need to work on that, and making a longer bead without stopping.

Thanks guys!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any advantages or disadvantages from having thick or thin welds? I noticed these are a good bit thicker than some of the first ones you posted up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I was trying out a much smaller filler at one point, but decided to go back to 1/16." I also tried out 3/32nd and didn't have very good results. I like trying out things, and finding the best method that works for me. I think I'll probubly stick with this stuff

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I feel bad for the WG. . . </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why's that? This is actually my prefered location for this setup. We havn't seen any negative results.

tony1

5 seconds isn't enough post flow. On that thick **** i've usually got around 12-15 seconds.

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5 seconds isn't enough post flow. On that thick **** i've usually got around 12-15 seconds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh damn! I'll give that a shot then.

RCautoworks

Isn't it more dependent on the amount of time the weld is still in its molten state ?

plamauski

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't it more dependent on the amount of time the weld is still in its molten state ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, to me it looks like the travel speed was a little inconsistent. That's one of the hardest things with TIG IMO - goings fast enough to not overheat the base metal but slow enough to get good penetration, all while maintaining a steady rate.

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't it more dependent on the amount of time the weld is still in its molten state ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but you weld this thick stuff hotter than you do 16ga stuff, right? I noticed that this thick pipe needs a lot more post flow than 16ga stuff does.

gsrious

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why's that? This is actually my prefered location for this setup. We havn't seen any negative results. </TD></TR></TABLE>

from the looks of the pics, it seems as if the runner for the wg is running directly to the primaries of the manifold.

so how are you trying to fit a wg into there?

RC000E

Yeah....I certainly post flow at LEAST 10 seconds on material this thick. Sometimes it's still glowing at 4-5 seconds......so the color is instantly gone if the post flow quits.

I gotta say though....your welds are WAY better than like 6 months ago...even since early this year.

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

from the looks of the pics, it seems as if the runner for the wg is running directly to the primaries of the manifold.

so how are you trying to fit a wg into there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I fit a WG to each manifold to ensure fitment. These manifolds are designed for the CRX/EF, which don't really have much room. tucking the WG saves a lot of room for other things.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah....I certainly post flow at LEAST 10 seconds on material this thick. Sometimes it's still glowing at 4-5 seconds......so the color is instantly gone if the post flow quits.

I gotta say though....your welds are WAY better than like 6 months ago...even since early this year.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man! Yeah, I'll definetly give the post flow a shot.

ManBearPig4silly

dammit I can't see the pics but I'll jump on the 12-18 sec postflow bandwagon. It's best to error on the side of flowing for too long. I mean it can't hurt anything can it?

dave@passenger

Rule of thumb that I use for post flow is that your post flow should continue until the area you just welded is no longer glowing with heat. For sch40 I am probably using around 13-15seconds.

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ManBearPig4silly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dammit I can't see the pics but I'll jump on the 12-18 sec postflow bandwagon. It's best to error on the side of flowing for too long. I mean it can't hurt anything can it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Except when you are selling your work so damn cheap that you can't even afford to backpurge it or do proper post flow. Seems to be the norm around here....

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, but you weld this thick stuff hotter than you do 16ga stuff, right? I noticed that this thick pipe needs a lot more post flow than 16ga stuff does.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yeah for sure, but I was saying its more on how long the molten state last

tony1

It's not how long it's in a molten state, that only lasts for a second or two after you stop the arc. It needs to be purged for as long as it's above a certain temperture. I have no idea what that temperature is though. You don't want to expose the SS to oxygen above a certain temp.

dave@passenger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not how long it's in a molten state, that only lasts for a second or two after you stop the arc. It needs to be purged for as long as it's above a certain temperture. I have no idea what that temperature is though. You don't want to expose the SS to oxygen above a certain temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The other rule of thumb I use for purging is run the purge about 1.5 times as long as my post flow, this generally will leave little to no color at all on the backside of the weld.

ManBearPig4silly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Except when you are selling your work so damn cheap that you can't even afford to backpurge it or do proper post flow. Seems to be the norm around here....</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol true. I can't seem to think in that frame of mind. I'll have to work on that

RCautoworks

When I say molten I ment that red, orange glow. Probably not in the molten state.

Niles

The rule of thumb I've been taught is one second for every 10 amps. I always tack on a few seconds beyond that for good measure if it glows for a while like RC was saying. So if you're welding that sched pipe at 100 amps, you would need 10 plus seconds post flow