this looks incrediable easy to make. Anyone ever attempt it?

I'm going to be bored all weekend at work and might give this a try. full access to a machine shop. :D

 

a lot of people here on h-t have made one.....see it all the time

https://honda-tech.com/zero...55210

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg crunkmonster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a lot of people here on h-t have made one.....see it all the time

https://honda-tech.com/zero...55210</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for that link.. can't wait to start!

 

I wish I had a camera, I'm almost done.

 

Or you could fab up something like...


Easy as pie to use. Probably one of the better $50 purchases I have made.

Link to the tool. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog

 

tell ya one thing...cost me $100 bucks for the tool and well worth it.....well until i blew the airhose off my freinds compressor...wasnt rotatiing the motor as i went and dropped the valve...and spent the next 3hrs tearing it apart...to dig th F***kin vavle out...worked great tho

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wasnt rotatiing the motor as i went and dropped the valve</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if you rotate the motor 'as you go' than the valve wont drop too far?

--

I'll have pics after the weekend of my new tool.. I think I went a little overboard lol..

I have all the peices sort of roughed out but can't make any final cuts/holes until I have my head apart.

Do the keepers sort of fall in? the retainers look sooo deep inside the head.. I'm such a noob.

 

yes...keep the piston at tdc for the ones your removing...so if you happen to lose air in the combustion chamber...the valve wont drop into the motor...because we have interference motors this works ....

one thing to improve on their design is the angling...took me a few tries to find the sweet spot...and a magnitized bolt grabber helps too because soon as you compress the VS the keepers want to fall off...and into the handle part...and the magnet helps pull them out w/o droppin them...sucks if you drop a keeper into the oil pan...altho they will flow out if you change the oil...heh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes...keep the piston at tdc for the ones your removing...so if you happen to lose air in the combustion chamber...the valve wont drop into the motor...because we have interference motors this works ....

one thing to improve on their design is the angling...took me a few tries to find the sweet spot...and a magnitized bolt grabber helps too because soon as you compress the VS the keepers want to fall off...and into the handle part...and the magnet helps pull them out w/o droppin them...sucks if you drop a keeper into the oil pan...altho they will flow out if you change the oil...heh</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds simple enough.. That's what I always thought would happen if you were at TDC. If you read the archived threads people make it sound like it's game over if you drop the valve while doing this - no matter what. I always learn the most in Welding/Fab lol..

Thanks for reminding me.. I still need to buy one of those realy small pen magnets. the one I have now is too big.

I'm assuming the keepers want to 'fall in' just as easy? I'm going to use picks to put them back in.

 

they dont exactly fall in...the hug the valve until you touch them...lil bits of oil help hold it on w/ surface tension...i use a big magnet...its about 24" long on a flexline w/ a magnet about the size od a sharpie marker....

it is game over if you drop the valve...i was on the 3rd cylinder...hadnt rotated the motor since it was going so smoothly....ended up droppin the valve...having to pull the head off and taking everything apart...what a rpita!!! i nearly cried...my neighbors were slighty pissed off to from the cussin but oh well....3hrs later i was done...had it gone smoothly wouldnt have been anymore than an hr...heh life sucks....

and puttin them back in you find puttin them in the retainer...then recompressing them is the best method...and since you making you own make it easy...see how the bar prys and it has 2 notches...make it so the pivot bar can be attached to the cross bar...not dimpled but w/ a hole thru the bar...itll help hold it steady when you need one hand to keep the keepers from poping out....its hard to explain...but if you want some exact measurements of the tool id be more than willin to hepl ya out

 

Here's what I built this spring...works great and only cost about $15 to build

So far it fits my b16 head and my friends LS head...just had to drill a few different holes.

2 pieces of flat bar, 1 piece of threaded bar (any bar will do...this just happen to be available), one pice of pipe for the part that goes over the retainer.

 

I remember reading the thread when you first built that... thinking..."Damn... thats a bad *** idea"

 

What's this dimention? please and thankyou.

It's hard for me to measure this because I dont want to take my head apart until the parts show up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryanthegreat1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or you could fab up something like...


Easy as pie to use. Probably one of the better $50 purchases I have made.

Link to the tool. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm trying to figure out how you use this to put the retainers/keeprs back on?
any insight?
Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm trying to figure out how you use this to put the retainers/keeprs back on?
any insight?
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya you hammer down on on the tool and it pushes the keeprs on...kinda hard top explain...buyt same conecpt as using just a piece of pipe and pushing down on the valve springs...if the valve cant move the spring compresses and the keepers fall off and when you release the spring goes flyin if you let it go....

the tool everyone is makin is the best way ive used to date...worked very well for me numerous times...the tool has paid for itself and beyond...

 

NO! DON'T HAMMER! That's a great way to bend up a valve. You can use a hammer to tap the tool if you have a valve retainer that is sticking and pushing the valve in as well. I just took the silver part, put the hollow end on the retainer, and push down with some force and the keepers pop right out and stick to the magnetic ring just inside that opening.

For installation you take that black part and stick the long end into the handle part. Then you take the spring and retainer and place them back in the motor like they should be. After that you put the keepers into the retainer so that the small end kind of sits down around the valve stem. And finally you take that cone shaped, spring loaded end of that tool and press it down right in the center of those keepers and with a little force you will hear the keepers click into place and its done. Sometimes one keeper will not seat all the way and then you just have to lean on it again and usually it will seat with out a problem.

I also found that on the exhaust side the springs are a bit stiffer and you have to push the retainer down with your fingers first to get the keepers to drop down just a little bit to clear the valve stem.

If that doesn't make sense sorry its been a long day. Let me know if you have any other questions, this is by far my favorite tool for doing valve work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryanthegreat1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO! DON'T HAMMER! That's a great way to bend up a valve. You can use a hammer to tap the tool if you have a valve retainer that is sticking and pushing the valve in as well. I just took the silver part, put the hollow end on the retainer, and push down with some force and the keepers pop right out and stick to the magnetic ring just inside that opening.

For installation you take that black part and stick the long end into the handle part. Then you take the spring and retainer and place them back in the motor like they should be. After that you put the keepers into the retainer so that the small end kind of sits down around the valve stem. And finally you take that cone shaped, spring loaded end of that tool and press it down right in the center of those keepers and with a little force you will hear the keepers click into place and its done. Sometimes one keeper will not seat all the way and then you just have to lean on it again and usually it will seat with out a problem.

I also found that on the exhaust side the springs are a bit stiffer and you have to push the retainer down with your fingers first to get the keepers to drop down just a little bit to clear the valve stem.

If that doesn't make sense sorry its been a long day. Let me know if you have any other questions, this is by far my favorite tool for doing valve work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your explanation makes perfect sense-i think i'm going to get one.
Thanks
Chris

 

It's 4" from the plate to the center of the hole...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blusi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's 4" from the plate to the center of the hole... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks.. I decided I want to drill the hole when I have my head apart so I can have it exactly where i want it I'm going to drill a series of extra holes like the snap-on one but the top center hole will be for H22s, as it should be.. I want to keep it 'universal'.