hi
I resently picked up this pipe bender on one of my local hardware store but my question is
would it be any good/efective on doing pipe bending for my turbo piping .....
I tryed with a 2.5 inch steel pipe and it didnt come out good I gess I must heat the pipe before bending it right ?

this is how it looks

 

Not to be a dick, but its junk. In order to bend piping for ic and that sort of uses you need a mandrel bender which will run you around 70k.

 

just buy some bends from jegs or summit racing is your best bet iv herd of people pakcing pipes with sand and welding the ends before they bend it in one of those but i still dont think u will get a good bend

 

lmfao, yea just take it to the beach and bend up some pipes their

 

Also keep in mind that is a PIPE bender, and you want to use Tubing for charge pipes. The measurements on those dies are for inside diameter, not outside.

 

also that is meant for electrical conduit pipes. they are made of softer material so it bends easyer.

 

Yes...just like clockwork this topic that I recommended be stickied at the top of this forum is back again. Where's Engloid? He loves these threads as much as I do...

No you can't bend 2.5" tubing for charge piping. Just fork over the cash for U-bends.

 

would the HF bender like this one be ok for DOM type tubing aand scd 40 say for kart frames and cage type bending?

 

how infact does the hydraulic cylinder on this or anything else, such as the engine hoist in my garage work?

please dont respond with by pushing the piston down by cranking the lever.

for example, when the little piston is raised air is sucked in correct? then it compresses the air which i assume pushes a piston down that forces more oil into the cylinder?

when you release the pressure, is air getting let out? or oil getting put back to where it originated from?

 

no air is involved a small piston moves a small amount of hydraulic oil agnsed a large surface which is the bottom of the piston this difrence in surface area makes it poissible for us weeklings to pick up cars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Where's Engloid? He loves these threads as much as I do...
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I'm going to save the calories that I would normally waste in typing a reply to this question again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no air is involved a small piston moves a small amount of hydraulic oil agnsed a large surface which is the bottom of the piston this difrence in surface area makes it poissible for us weeklings to pick up cars</TD></TR></TABLE>

where does the oil come from if there is no reserve tank?

 

refund it and get your money back..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would the HF bender like this one be ok for DOM type tubing aand scd 40 say for kart frames and cage type bending?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would the HF bender like this one be ok for DOM type tubing aand scd 40 say for kart frames and cage type bending?</TD></TR></TABLE>



Theres a thousand words.. 1.75 OD with a .120 wall DOM tubing..

The only other word I can think of is No!

Seriously.. Take it back.. I have one and its a piece of ****.. its from plumbing pipe only.. I would happily take mine back if the store was still in business!

 

from the other side of the pistion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


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that is a nice bend.

 

The harbor bender will bend 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" TUBING nicely...but nothing else. You use the 1" dye for the 1 1/2"

 

have you tried like 2" with a 1.5" die?

 

you can't get anywhere trying to bend charge pipes w/ that setup, I work as a CNC tube bender, and bend 2" diameter cp-titanium, that is a totally different setup from what I'm working w/, I'm pretty sure bending a pipe without a mandrel will cause the diameter of the actual bend radius to collapse because when bending metal the material will want to stretch and therefore necking down and collapsing. Is that a crush-bent setup btw?, well I just wanted to throw you guys some info and plus the CNC tube bender I work with cost half a million dollars, I'm pretty sure if you guys wanted to pick up a mandrel type tube bender it'll be spendy and also you need to learn how to setup all the parts to complete a great looking bend, for IE. wiper/clamp/pressure dies, mandrel itself knowing the inside diameter of your tubing and the tolerances on the bend *****/mandrel for it to give nice bend w/o wrinkling issues. thinner material is a lot harder than thicker ones so you might slip a few nice bends. -Raz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAPIER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to be a dick, but its junk. In order to bend piping for ic and that sort of uses you need a mandrel bender which will run you around 70k.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wdf?

I priced them around 15-20k

 

that sucks...im brother has one...they bend like ****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quik sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wdf?

I priced them around 15-20k</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? For a true mandrel bender? That is actually affordable for a small business. Where did you get this price?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STD ONEpointSIX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that is a nice bend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd trust it in my roll bar set up

 

I have it book marked somewhere, I'll post it up later tonight.