My first downpipe *pics*
09-08-2005, 11:18 AM
#51
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Re: (Jizzmaster Zero)
okay man since every one here likes to flame i thought i would help you out.
yes what you did is ghetto and it's poorly constructed. (no offense) now i suggest you order up a flange from one of our fine h-t sponsors and you can build a better setup that's more reliable.
here's what you do:
first you need to cut all of your parts like this:
to find out where to cut your flange at, just make a template by tracing your outlet
next here is how you cut out the hole in the dp:
just trace the outline of the half pipe to the down pipe. it's important to cut the hole in the dp smaller that what you need. that way when you're welding, if you burn thru it wont be so big of a deal.
next you need to fit it up like this:
take a piece of flat bar or some thing flat and level and square it to the factory edge on the dp and tack it. then slide you dump pipe on so that the top of it sits flush with your dp.
then you're ready to weld:
weld just like the diagram shows. when you go to weld it work in one direction like shown. to heat it up just use a propane torch, but make sure it is clamped the whole time, other wise it will pull farther from the down pipe. and you can see what i was talking about on the hole in the dp. if you leave those little tabs there they are a lot easier to grind off then a weld. also you can bend the pipe out for an easier cut in you flange or leave it like shown for a cleaner look. just use vice grips to bend it out. now is the time when you cut the back down. after everything is welded down, just take your hacksaw and cut straight down the back of the dp.
(oh yeah make sure you cut off the piece of metal you tacked on first.)
now you're ready to weld to the flange:
just put the tacks where i marked. when you go to weld it just do like my little picture shows; put one tack on top of another over and over again. this is the easiest way to not burn thru pipe like this. if you do burn thru just skip the hole and come back later when it's cooled off.
then you're ready for the final weld up:
make sure you have it bolted to your turbo when you weld around the outside. weld in small passes, making sure you go to the next side after you weld one pass. i.e. weld 1/4 of the tube on it's left side then go on the other side and weld on the opposite end and side. this way you sure you're not going to warp your flange.
so i hope this helps you out. yeah it's fine to make things homemade, but it's not cool to do things like cutting a hf manifold and welding a flange to it. which BTW i hope you didn't do. that's even worse than this because that flange holds the turbo up. and if your turbo falls off then you're screwed. but that's a whole other topic.
BTW none of these pics are to scale
yes what you did is ghetto and it's poorly constructed. (no offense) now i suggest you order up a flange from one of our fine h-t sponsors and you can build a better setup that's more reliable.
here's what you do:
first you need to cut all of your parts like this:
to find out where to cut your flange at, just make a template by tracing your outlet
next here is how you cut out the hole in the dp:
just trace the outline of the half pipe to the down pipe. it's important to cut the hole in the dp smaller that what you need. that way when you're welding, if you burn thru it wont be so big of a deal.
next you need to fit it up like this:
take a piece of flat bar or some thing flat and level and square it to the factory edge on the dp and tack it. then slide you dump pipe on so that the top of it sits flush with your dp.
then you're ready to weld:
weld just like the diagram shows. when you go to weld it work in one direction like shown. to heat it up just use a propane torch, but make sure it is clamped the whole time, other wise it will pull farther from the down pipe. and you can see what i was talking about on the hole in the dp. if you leave those little tabs there they are a lot easier to grind off then a weld. also you can bend the pipe out for an easier cut in you flange or leave it like shown for a cleaner look. just use vice grips to bend it out. now is the time when you cut the back down. after everything is welded down, just take your hacksaw and cut straight down the back of the dp.
(oh yeah make sure you cut off the piece of metal you tacked on first.)
now you're ready to weld to the flange:
just put the tacks where i marked. when you go to weld it just do like my little picture shows; put one tack on top of another over and over again. this is the easiest way to not burn thru pipe like this. if you do burn thru just skip the hole and come back later when it's cooled off.
then you're ready for the final weld up:
make sure you have it bolted to your turbo when you weld around the outside. weld in small passes, making sure you go to the next side after you weld one pass. i.e. weld 1/4 of the tube on it's left side then go on the other side and weld on the opposite end and side. this way you sure you're not going to warp your flange.
so i hope this helps you out. yeah it's fine to make things homemade, but it's not cool to do things like cutting a hf manifold and welding a flange to it. which BTW i hope you didn't do. that's even worse than this because that flange holds the turbo up. and if your turbo falls off then you're screwed. but that's a whole other topic.
BTW none of these pics are to scale
09-08-2005, 11:26 AM
#52
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Re: (baseballinmyass)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Obviously you are not familiar with the internal wastegate on a Ford style T3. It is not in the turbo itself, where I would be able to do what you are talking about. The flapper is in the separate exhaust housing. So I had to use that part of the exhaust housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look at the pictures.
Obviously you are not familiar with the internal wastegate on a Ford style T3. It is not in the turbo itself, where I would be able to do what you are talking about. The flapper is in the separate exhaust housing. So I had to use that part of the exhaust housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look at the pictures.
09-08-2005, 12:12 PM
#53
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Re: (90wagon4wd)
yea my 5 bolt internal wastegate flange definately has a 3 bolt flange that bolts onto it so you dont have to ghetto rig a downpipe....and the flapper is inside the flange.
09-08-2005, 12:30 PM
#54
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Re: (baseballinmyass)
Yea I can't do what your pictures do. Look at my pics, I need that part of the exhaust housing to hold the wastegate flapper. Where the hell does the flapper go with your idea? Nowhere because it won't work.
09-08-2005, 01:35 PM
#57
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Re: (Jizzmaster Zero)
im not sure if mine is the same as a ford 5 bolt, its a standard garret 5 bolt. but they have to make the same thing for a ford 5 bolt. the DP simply bolts onto it.
09-08-2005, 05:50 PM
#58
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Re: (Smokinsax)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will put down $10 that it cracks 
j/p man...good work on the DIY!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well said, I give you much credit for trying. But I'll go $100 that it will crack, crack soon, and crack in the cast heat effected zone.
If you absolutely have to weld cast, TIG with a 99% nickel filler rod, with preheat, with controlled cool down, and with lots of prayer.
Here is the technical reason for those that want to know: When Ductile Iron castings are repaired or joined by fusion welding their high carbon content can cause the formation of carbides in the fusion zone (FZ) and martensite in both the FZ and heat affected zone (HAZ) adjacent to the FZ. The formation of hard brittle phases in the FZ and HAZ can cause a significant deterioration in both machinability and mechanical properties.
j/p man...good work on the DIY!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well said, I give you much credit for trying. But I'll go $100 that it will crack, crack soon, and crack in the cast heat effected zone.
If you absolutely have to weld cast, TIG with a 99% nickel filler rod, with preheat, with controlled cool down, and with lots of prayer.
Here is the technical reason for those that want to know: When Ductile Iron castings are repaired or joined by fusion welding their high carbon content can cause the formation of carbides in the fusion zone (FZ) and martensite in both the FZ and heat affected zone (HAZ) adjacent to the FZ. The formation of hard brittle phases in the FZ and HAZ can cause a significant deterioration in both machinability and mechanical properties.
09-08-2005, 09:42 PM
#59
damn, i hate when you type a big quick reply, and then it simply says, "you must be logged in to post". i guess i'll shorten my comment to-
ha ha ha, i can't believe you posted this **** on the internet. nice try, now throw that in the trash before anyone who has the slightest bit of respect for you sees it.
i hope you made this post as a joke. anybody remember the guy who made that "exhaust tip" on here about a year ago??
seriously funny ****. now start taking the advice of professionals, or at least invest in a tank of argon. say no to slag.
not tryin to be a hater, but seriously. you went to 5 different welders, who all told you the same thing. then you did this.
my best advice- stop being hard headed. ask for advice from the pros, instead of looking to find what you want to hear, which in this case, they all gave you correct advice.
ha ha ha, i can't believe you posted this **** on the internet. nice try, now throw that in the trash before anyone who has the slightest bit of respect for you sees it.
i hope you made this post as a joke. anybody remember the guy who made that "exhaust tip" on here about a year ago??
seriously funny ****. now start taking the advice of professionals, or at least invest in a tank of argon. say no to slag.
not tryin to be a hater, but seriously. you went to 5 different welders, who all told you the same thing. then you did this.
my best advice- stop being hard headed. ask for advice from the pros, instead of looking to find what you want to hear, which in this case, they all gave you correct advice.
09-09-2005, 12:31 AM
#60
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Re: (ShadyEH2)
I have had great success welding cast WITHOUT preheat or postheat. I do typically TIG weld it.
Keep in mind that all cast is not the same. If you buy parts that are 316 stainless, you pretty much know what it will be and weld like.....but that's not true with cast. It varies a lot. Your downpipe cast may have a different metal content than the cast metal bench you have in the back yard.
Casting technology and techniques have improved greatly in the last years, but the MYTH that it's not weldable still remains strong.
Keep in mind that all cast is not the same. If you buy parts that are 316 stainless, you pretty much know what it will be and weld like.....but that's not true with cast. It varies a lot. Your downpipe cast may have a different metal content than the cast metal bench you have in the back yard.
Casting technology and techniques have improved greatly in the last years, but the MYTH that it's not weldable still remains strong.
09-09-2005, 08:34 AM
#61
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Who betted it would crack and crack soon yada yada yada... I'm pretty sure you owe the OP some money. As far as I know, Jago's dp is still good.
09-09-2005, 01:13 PM
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Re: (CRXDrew)
Wow, some of you sure do suck. My **** hasn't cracked the slightest bit, and it cost me $20. Any professional shop would have charged AT LEAST $150-200 and it would work just as good. This downpipe flows incredible well and I make a lot of power with it. I don't regret doing it one bit and I would do it over and over again. This was somewhat of a budget setup, and I came up with a budget solution. Quit hating. Better yet, keep on hating knowing that I spent less than 1/10th of what you did 
09-09-2005, 01:28 PM
#63
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Re: (Jizzmaster Zero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would do it over and over again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and over.. and over...
LOL.
and over.. and over...
LOL.
09-09-2005, 03:39 PM
#65
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Re: (Jizzmaster Zero)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, some of you sure do suck. My **** hasn't cracked the slightest bit, and it cost me $20. Any professional shop would have charged AT LEAST $150-200 and it would work just as good. This downpipe flows incredible well and I make a lot of power with it. I don't regret doing it one bit and I would do it over and over again. This was somewhat of a budget setup, and I came up with a budget solution. Quit hating. Better yet, keep on hating knowing that I spent less than 1/10th of what you did </TD></TR></TABLE>
you should post up an engine pic..im curious to see your setup
</TD></TR></TABLE>you should post up an engine pic..im curious to see your setup
Good job fellow HMT'er
09-09-2005, 04:06 PM
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Re: (cptengineer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cptengineer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey dood our race car needs some fab work, interested?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or they have E-race cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Or they have E-race cars.
09-09-2005, 07:46 PM
#73
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Re: (RACINTWEEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACINTWEEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jago's welds pwn all off you stock *** DX's.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
even mine? that made me think of my plate right away
</TD></TR></TABLE>
even mine?
that made me think of my plate right away
