Custom Roll cage
built in the shop last week... comments? critique? just your basic 10 point roll cage. can somebody please tell me why some cages i see have bars in the middle of nowhere? does anybody believe in tucking bars as close as possible to whatever they are next to? or is the process much simpler... bend, notch, weld; without any consideration for placement??? im jus ranting at the fact that 90% of cages i see here and in person fit like crap yet people feel the work is great... i dont get it...
















<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> can somebody please tell me why some cages i see have bars in the middle of nowhere? does anybody believe in tucking bars as close as possible to whatever they are next to? or is the process much simpler... bend, notch, weld; without any consideration for placement??? im jus ranting at the fact that 90% of cages i see here and in person fit like crap yet people feel the work is great... i dont get it...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand either. But i think that most of those cages are either homebrewed, or an S&W type kit. From the pictures i have seen those things leave a good 2 to 4 inch gap around the main hoop.
Looks like a good quality cage. Only thing i don't like is that the rear down tubes are connect to the bar, and not to the chassi and the bar ties them together.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand either. But i think that most of those cages are either homebrewed, or an S&W type kit. From the pictures i have seen those things leave a good 2 to 4 inch gap around the main hoop.
Looks like a good quality cage. Only thing i don't like is that the rear down tubes are connect to the bar, and not to the chassi and the bar ties them together.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anybody believe in tucking bars as close as possible to whatever they are next to? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Would say 3/4 of the cages made out there are prebent, and those don't fit so well most of the time.
Cage looks very well done
Would say 3/4 of the cages made out there are prebent, and those don't fit so well most of the time.
Cage looks very well done
Been doing cages along time now, this one I like. Most kits are generic and fit more than one specific chassis.
I attached the rear down tubes once on a customers car like yours to the shock tower area and it was posted here, he got royally flamed for it. There is no where for that tube to go but people have there opinions. I also prefer to attach the upper rear supports closer to the attachment point of the forward A-pillars to the main hoop, I like to keep all the joint supported from both sides.
Is it a ChromeMoly cage? Those are my favorite to build.
Nice job!
I attached the rear down tubes once on a customers car like yours to the shock tower area and it was posted here, he got royally flamed for it. There is no where for that tube to go but people have there opinions. I also prefer to attach the upper rear supports closer to the attachment point of the forward A-pillars to the main hoop, I like to keep all the joint supported from both sides.
Is it a ChromeMoly cage? Those are my favorite to build.
Nice job!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lamchops »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">real nice
question- do the door bars hit the door panels. and do the bars interfere when rolling the windows?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no the door bars door bars do not it the door panels and yes it is possible to roll the window down with the door closed.
yes, cromoly
question- do the door bars hit the door panels. and do the bars interfere when rolling the windows?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no the door bars door bars do not it the door panels and yes it is possible to roll the window down with the door closed.
yes, cromoly
You guys may think this is a dumb question, but is there any special way in which you weld the joints for a cage? by that I mean dragging the torch a certain away or anything like that. Are most of you guys using a torch amp control rather then a foot pedal. Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr.NAPIER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys may think this is a dumb question, but is there any special way in which you weld the joints for a cage? by that I mean dragging the torch a certain away or anything like that. Are most of you guys using a torch amp control rather then a foot pedal. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bought a hand controller and never used it, I did get a few cramps laying in weird positions though. The only other thing you have to do, is drill a hole near the weld so pressure won't build up inside and basically push the weld outward.
I bought a hand controller and never used it, I did get a few cramps laying in weird positions though. The only other thing you have to do, is drill a hole near the weld so pressure won't build up inside and basically push the weld outward.
I have a hand control, it worked pretty good. I have the one that looks like the racks from a tank.
After using it for a good while I ended up cutting the cord off it and using the line to extend my foot control. Even in weird places, laying on my back I cold work the foot control between my knees easier than the hand control.
And yes that cage looks darn nice. Custom cages are expensive, but for the work compared to other fab stuff they are under priced.
Later
Randy
After using it for a good while I ended up cutting the cord off it and using the line to extend my foot control. Even in weird places, laying on my back I cold work the foot control between my knees easier than the hand control.
And yes that cage looks darn nice. Custom cages are expensive, but for the work compared to other fab stuff they are under priced.
Later
Randy
thanks for the compliments...
Curious, how much would a cage like that weigh?
i have never weighed one but i believe they are roughly 80lbs.
Someone else said the same thing to me as I was building the cage. Getting in and out of the car it really isnt in the way.
It was Jeff's idea! lol
I completely understand what you're saying as far as the keeping the joints supported from both sides and agree to an extent. My main problem with that is many of the times I don't like the angle's that location gives me.
Yup... chromoly. Ill use it unless the sanctioning bodies rulebook disallows it.
Stability! Make sure the torch is stable and you are comfortable. (well... as comfortable as you can get twisted up in a car. lol) personally I use foot control but I have yet to try hand control. I'm about to get 1 though. Iv found welding goes 100x quicker when i dont need to re-position the pedal for every 1.5" of weld. I do need to thank Jeff though for willing to sit there and press the pedal for me when i say go and stop. lol
well maybe i shouldnt say willing as he got pretty upset when he was eating dinner tonite...
The only other thing you have to do, is drill a hole near the weld so pressure won't build up inside and basically push the weld outward.
I personally drill "breather holes" as I call them throughout the cage as I'm assenmblling it. In essence air is not trapped within a single tube. The insides of the tubes are all connected. I dont have any problems welding and having welds pop out doing this. When i forget... now thats a differant story... anybody's who's done can relate...
If you keep it a rule of thumb to always drill holes... it makes welding so much easier. I also always drill them on the inside of where the tube will be attatched so there wont be any hideous random holes. Nobody ever see's any of them
you are 100% correct. but just like everything esle in this industry... you get what you pay for.
here are 2 joints from the cage. the first pictures is where the passenger side main hoop, door bar, seat belt bar, etc. meet and the second is where the bars meet on the exhaust tunnel from the main hoop. i have OCD with fitment.... lol




Originally Posted by ELSpool
Curious, how much would a cage like that weigh?
i have never weighed one but i believe they are roughly 80lbs.
Originally Posted by Justin Olson
Very nice cage! If this was a dual purpose car that gusset by the drivers head would scare me.
I really like how it all fits in there!
I really like how it all fits in there!
It was Jeff's idea! lol
Originally Posted by CagedRuss
Been doing cages along time now, this one I like. Most kits are generic and fit more than one specific chassis.
I attached the rear down tubes once on a customers car like yours to the shock tower area and it was posted here, he got royally flamed for it. There is no where for that tube to go but people have there opinions. I also prefer to attach the upper rear supports closer to the attachment point of the forward A-pillars to the main hoop, I like to keep all the joint supported from both sides.
Is it a ChromeMoly cage? Those are my favorite to build.
Nice job!
I attached the rear down tubes once on a customers car like yours to the shock tower area and it was posted here, he got royally flamed for it. There is no where for that tube to go but people have there opinions. I also prefer to attach the upper rear supports closer to the attachment point of the forward A-pillars to the main hoop, I like to keep all the joint supported from both sides.
Is it a ChromeMoly cage? Those are my favorite to build.
Nice job!
Yup... chromoly. Ill use it unless the sanctioning bodies rulebook disallows it.
Originally Posted by dr.NAPIER
You guys may think this is a dumb question, but is there any special way in which you weld the joints for a cage? by that I mean dragging the torch a certain away or anything like that. Are most of you guys using a torch amp control rather then a foot pedal. Thanks
well maybe i shouldnt say willing as he got pretty upset when he was eating dinner tonite...
Originally Posted by 90blackcrx
The only other thing you have to do, is drill a hole near the weld so pressure won't build up inside and basically push the weld outward.
If you keep it a rule of thumb to always drill holes... it makes welding so much easier. I also always drill them on the inside of where the tube will be attatched so there wont be any hideous random holes. Nobody ever see's any of them
Originally Posted by Evile140
Custom cages are expensive, but for the work compared to other fab stuff they are under priced.
Later
Randy
Later
Randy
here are 2 joints from the cage. the first pictures is where the passenger side main hoop, door bar, seat belt bar, etc. meet and the second is where the bars meet on the exhaust tunnel from the main hoop. i have OCD with fitment.... lol




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigTom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i have OCD with fitment.... lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that there is one thing you ain't kiddin about.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Now that there is one thing you ain't kiddin about.
What are you using to notch your tubing with? And how do you like it?
When I see a cage that doesnt fit super snug, the first thing that comes to find is they did not have the skill to make it fit so well. Unless of course it was a pre-bent type(s&w etc) cage. Not saying I have the skill cause I have YET to actually build a cage. Its in the works though, I just wanna have all the correct tools first. Ive got model JD2 model 4 up and running now I gotta save for the nitcher and decide what route I wanna go...
Looks awesome though, I dig how tightly it fits and how it follows the pillar into the dash...
When I see a cage that doesnt fit super snug, the first thing that comes to find is they did not have the skill to make it fit so well. Unless of course it was a pre-bent type(s&w etc) cage. Not saying I have the skill cause I have YET to actually build a cage. Its in the works though, I just wanna have all the correct tools first. Ive got model JD2 model 4 up and running now I gotta save for the nitcher and decide what route I wanna go...
Looks awesome though, I dig how tightly it fits and how it follows the pillar into the dash...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedRuss »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I attached the rear down tubes once on a customers car like yours to the shock tower area and it was posted here, he got royally flamed for it. There is no where for that tube to go but people have there opinions. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dissagree, every cage in NASA, SCCA club and Pro, and GARRA has the rear down tubes attach in the 'correct' way, (for road racers, its the only way).
I attached the rear down tubes once on a customers car like yours to the shock tower area and it was posted here, he got royally flamed for it. There is no where for that tube to go but people have there opinions. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dissagree, every cage in NASA, SCCA club and Pro, and GARRA has the rear down tubes attach in the 'correct' way, (for road racers, its the only way).



