743power

that bar isnt doing anything for your car anyway.

The point of a lower tie bar is to eliminate the probably minimal deflection between the lca mounting points. You should connect it to the lca bolts to make it more effective. Also, that design lends itself to flexing, make it straight next time.

ManBearPig4silly

Dont give up. we all have to start somewhere.

m R g S r

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jedubz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm utterly confused as to what you were thinking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha...mee too!

NinetyTwoHB

woah...was this guy serious? dude, im not trying to be rude....but i think its time to go back to the drawing board and actually THINK this one out.

NinetyTwoHB

oh, but if you are just joking, then good one.?

mrDFWmechanic

that hangs way tooo low

.nate

I thought my beaks bar hung low... damn!



Keep trying though man! How many tries did it take to make the lightbulb?

EDIT: Also I went back and looked at your design and you may want to rethink the placement where you're bolting it up at. From the looks of it it would be hard to get a swaybar in there (look at the pic I posted above for refrence).

Good luck!


Modified by .nate at 1:48 PM 4/5/2005

racer_X_123

Ok so i updated my tie bar situation. How is this?

@ries

its better

ophdehEEEzy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepingEg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well Im gonna go ahead and give the guy props for making his own **** and not buying it. But I will also say sand the dang thing and paint it up and call it a day. It may need to be shortened so it wont touch the ground.

Not to thread jack or anything... but here is one that I fabbed up for a friend. It can be made VERY inexpensively... Hit me up if you want any help or suggestions.



Its amazing how so many people can't even find one good thing to say... Didn't your mother ever tell you... If you don' t have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all!!!!!

Good job and don't get discouraged!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I like!

tuanhoprosk8

*******...ugly.... u waseted 3 hours of ur life and u came up with that??? y didnt u just make a straigh one... and atleast knock off all the rust.. gosh..

dustin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuanhoprosk8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*******...ugly.... u waseted 3 hours of ur life and u came up with that??? y didnt u just make a straigh one... and atleast knock off all the rust.. gosh..</TD></TR></TABLE>

way to read the thread all the way through

92hondalude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

way to read the thread all the way through </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha

i like it. it is so much better then the first one

v4lu3s

you got a lot of ***** to post up images of that here where so many people are eilite enough that if its not JDM its ****....
I personally think attempt one is ugle, and attempt 2 may nto be totally effective, but i give you a **** load of credit for making efforts to amke your own stuff. keep it up and as you do it mroe and more you will learn more and more.

regardless of the effectiveness ill applaud the effort to do it yourself.

blueoval557

I also give you credit for trying to make the stuff yourself! As for the effectiveness of the second design....thats perfect! They do not get any better than that, unless you want to try to make an adjustable lower tie bar like I am manufacturing(see link below). Your second design as actually better than 90% of the bars out there, as it eliminates all hardware, and weak points. That thing defenitely isnt moving. As I said before, you cant get better than that unless you go adjustable! NICE JOB!
Kyle
P.S. Heres the tie bars I make: http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122528

CRXDrew

much better. Those bars r so simple. Anyone with an hour a couple of bucks and a drill can whip em together.

Loco Honkey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .nate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many tries did it take to make the lightbulb? </TD></TR></TABLE>

About a thousand, and when asked if he ever got discouraged, Edison replied by saying that he didn't look at it as 1000 failures. He looked at it as he learned 1000 ways how NOT to build a light bulb.

+ for trying.
+ for posting.
+ for doing it again.
- for the *********.

Loco Honkey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer_X_123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so i updated my tie bar situation. How is this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Better. However, you need to look at how the stresses flow through the piece you're trying to strengthen. They travel from the LCA, through the LCA bolt, into the subframe. How... on a typical modded street car, suspension bits can see upwards of 30 G's of force, and I don't think 1/4-20 bolts or whatever you used there will work. In all likelyhood, they'd shear. Furthermore, having it bolted to the ears of the subframe doesn't do much, because those ears will just flex. If there's a way you can tie that C-channel into the LCA bolts, you're golden, because what you'd be doing there would be to remove some of the stress from the subframe and spread it out over your bar you're fabricating. I could tell you how to do that, but I want you to think about how to do it and give it a shot. Remember: You've now learned two ways how not to do it. You will never fail if you think like that.

blueoval557

Going off of what honkey said, look at those pics I posted up regarding the lower tie bars and how they are attached. 2 HINTS: Notice the bolt SIZE, and also what the bolt goes through GOOD LUCK! Keep trying, your doing great.
Kyle

StyleTEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueoval557 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also give you credit for trying to make the stuff yourself! As for the effectiveness of the second design....thats perfect! They do not get any better than that, unless you want to try to make an adjustable lower tie bar like I am manufacturing(see link below). Your second design as actually better than 90% of the bars out there, as it eliminates all hardware, and weak points. That thing defenitely isnt moving. As I said before, you cant get better than that unless you go adjustable! NICE JOB!
Kyle
P.S. Heres the tie bars I make: http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122528</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno if I would use a spherical bearing for something that is designed to eliminate any movement.

blueoval557

LOL....i would try to explain...but do some searching, and you will understand. You are missing the entire point of a rear lower tie bar. The point is to hold the 2 pieces, in this case the LCA mounts, together, and to keep them from moving independentally from one another. Believe me, these bars are the baddest on the market! Ever seen a DA drift??? Like literally??? Ive seen it a few times with these bars installed. Dont mean to sound snotty or anything, just getting the point across.
Kyle

I8ayellowcrayon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepingEg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well Im gonna go ahead and give the guy props for making his own **** and not buying it. But I will also say sand the dang thing and paint it up and call it a day. It may need to be shortened so it wont touch the ground.

Not to thread jack or anything... but here is one that I fabbed up for a friend. It can be made VERY inexpensively... Hit me up if you want any help or suggestions.



Its amazing how so many people can't even find one good thing to say... Didn't your mother ever tell you... If you don' t have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all!!!!!

Good job and don't get discouraged!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry to thread jack, but you should enlighten us with your fabbing . It looks to me like a chain link fence pole that has been flattened on the ends with a hole drilled in there. I've considered using a spare pole that we have for that. It probably wouldn't do much good though....

I must also agree with you here... How many of you have ever tried to do something like this? Any idea how much work was involved in making that? Show some respect.

BTW, those welds look pretty good. I'm going to be very surprised if you used an arc welder on that.

I8ayellowcrayon

Whoop, didn't get to the second page .

Your second attempt looks great! Although, its still hooked up to the sway bar bushing mounts.... It does look good though .

StyleTEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The point is to hold the 2 pieces, in this case the LCA mounts, together, and to keep them from moving independentally from one another
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, and spherical bearings are designed to allow 360 degree's of movement. Regardless of the bar being in compression or tension, under flex the bearing is going to move before the bar does any good.

It would be better to run just a straight endlink, or possibly even knock out the bearing if you need to use the rod ends for the reverse thread on one side.

racer_X_123

actually i did use a wire feed arc welder to do those welds... No joke...i have gotten pretty good at it. Thanks for all the positive people out there. and all you negative people, keep waisting your money having other people trick out your car for you.