Can a dremel cut through... strut "feet", and a coil spring?
02-03-2008, 01:06 PM
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Can a dremel cut through... strut "feet", and a coil spring?
I tried removing the suspension on '99 civic last thursday, what a nightmare:
The bolt on the front driver's side that holds the LCA and fork together is seized to the bushing. I was able to get the nut on the opposite side off, but the bolt won't budge. I've tried a ton of things to get the strut off with no luck... heat on the bolt and then a hammer, loads of PB blaster, impact wrench, tried compressing the spring. Nothing is working so I'm thinking of resorting to cutting the spring to unload the strut and then pulling the strut out of the fork. I know it sounds really sketchy, but I don't have a lot of options.
The second problem is the rear LCA bolt snapped. I was thinking of cutting the "feet" off the strut that the bolt passes through and either hammering or drilling the remaining bolt pieces out.
Sorry that this was so wordy... my main question is, will a dremel do the job in both these scenarios? If so, what cutting pieces would work best. If anyone can supply input, that'd be great.
I figured this would be the right place to ask since fab => cutting.
Modified by alfaaay at 5:23 PM 2/3/2008
The bolt on the front driver's side that holds the LCA and fork together is seized to the bushing. I was able to get the nut on the opposite side off, but the bolt won't budge. I've tried a ton of things to get the strut off with no luck... heat on the bolt and then a hammer, loads of PB blaster, impact wrench, tried compressing the spring. Nothing is working so I'm thinking of resorting to cutting the spring to unload the strut and then pulling the strut out of the fork. I know it sounds really sketchy, but I don't have a lot of options.
The second problem is the rear LCA bolt snapped. I was thinking of cutting the "feet" off the strut that the bolt passes through and either hammering or drilling the remaining bolt pieces out.
Sorry that this was so wordy... my main question is, will a dremel do the job in both these scenarios? If so, what cutting pieces would work best. If anyone can supply input, that'd be great.
I figured this would be the right place to ask since fab => cutting.
Modified by alfaaay at 5:23 PM 2/3/2008
02-03-2008, 01:22 PM
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Re: Can a dremel cut through... strut "feet", and a coil spring? (alfaaay)
Yea, a Dremel can do the job. You'll burn through about 50 of those cutoff wheels, however.
02-03-2008, 03:16 PM
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Re: Can a dremel cut through... strut "feet", and a coil spring? (alfaaay)
Can't remove the entire LCA then work on it off the car? I have had plenty of bolts snap from stock suspension but I have a high speed air powered cut off tool which ive used
02-03-2008, 03:50 PM
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Why would you cut the spring when you could just take the nut off the top of the shock and let the lca down with a jack?
And why isn't the bolt coming out anyway? The only load on that bolt with the car in the air and suspension fully extended is created by the lca to subframe bushing trying to twist the lca back up. The shock bottoms out the spring. You should be able to easily remove that bolt, even if it's rusted, etc. Just put the nut back on flush with the end to protect the threads, and carefully hit it with a hammer. It Will come out. Then, once you get the bolt shank exposed on the other side, if it's still being stubborn, get a crescent wrench that is the size of the shank, put the impact on the bolt, put the crescent wrench on the shank against the back of the bolt head, and pull the bolt out while spinning the impact with the wrench. That's easier than trying to find some kind of punch that will be able to fit in and push the bolt all the way out.
You should not be using a dremel for anything you've described.
As far as removing the broken bolt, there are many ways to do that, if any of the threads are sticking out, you might be able to grab them and turn it out. Or if you don't care about the shock, you could cut the bolt end off flush and drill it through the threads on the shock.
And why isn't the bolt coming out anyway? The only load on that bolt with the car in the air and suspension fully extended is created by the lca to subframe bushing trying to twist the lca back up. The shock bottoms out the spring. You should be able to easily remove that bolt, even if it's rusted, etc. Just put the nut back on flush with the end to protect the threads, and carefully hit it with a hammer. It Will come out. Then, once you get the bolt shank exposed on the other side, if it's still being stubborn, get a crescent wrench that is the size of the shank, put the impact on the bolt, put the crescent wrench on the shank against the back of the bolt head, and pull the bolt out while spinning the impact with the wrench. That's easier than trying to find some kind of punch that will be able to fit in and push the bolt all the way out.
You should not be using a dremel for anything you've described.
As far as removing the broken bolt, there are many ways to do that, if any of the threads are sticking out, you might be able to grab them and turn it out. Or if you don't care about the shock, you could cut the bolt end off flush and drill it through the threads on the shock.
02-03-2008, 05:10 PM
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Re: (rorik)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you cut the spring when you could just take the nut off the top of the shock and let the lca down with a jack?
And why isn't the bolt coming out anyway? The only load on that bolt with the car in the air and suspension fully extended is created by the lca to subframe bushing trying to twist the lca back up. The shock bottoms out the spring. You should be able to easily remove that bolt, even if it's rusted, etc. Just put the nut back on flush with the end to protect the threads, and carefully hit it with a hammer. It Will come out. Then, once you get the bolt shank exposed on the other side, if it's still being stubborn, get a crescent wrench that is the size of the shank, put the impact on the bolt, put the crescent wrench on the shank against the back of the bolt head, and pull the bolt out while spinning the impact with the wrench. That's easier than trying to find some kind of punch that will be able to fit in and push the bolt all the way out.
You should not be using a dremel for anything you've described.
As far as removing the broken bolt, there are many ways to do that, if any of the threads are sticking out, you might be able to grab them and turn it out. Or if you don't care about the shock, you could cut the bolt end off flush and drill it through the threads on the shock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand how taking the nut off the top of the shock will help? If that reduces the load on the bolt, I'm not understanding how. I've always taken the top nut off once the full assembly was off the car.
I've also been hammering at that bolt for the last couple days, no luck. You're describing how I've done suspension work in the past (just hammering the bolt out, and then hitting a crescent wrench placed behind the head), but this is a different situation. I think the bolt is rusted to some parts of the suspension, the bushing I'm guessing.
As for the rear, I tried to twist the other side out, but that snapped off too. I'm thinking I'll have to cut part of that off and drill the rest out. I just want to make sure I'm prepared with the right tools.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't remove the entire LCA then work on it off the car? I have had plenty of bolts snap from stock suspension but I have a high speed air powered cut off tool which ive used </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried using an air cutter, but the air compressor I've got is too weak to hold decent pressure. I don't want to try to remove the LCA (and strut with it) because I'm sure I'm just going to snap more bolts.
And why isn't the bolt coming out anyway? The only load on that bolt with the car in the air and suspension fully extended is created by the lca to subframe bushing trying to twist the lca back up. The shock bottoms out the spring. You should be able to easily remove that bolt, even if it's rusted, etc. Just put the nut back on flush with the end to protect the threads, and carefully hit it with a hammer. It Will come out. Then, once you get the bolt shank exposed on the other side, if it's still being stubborn, get a crescent wrench that is the size of the shank, put the impact on the bolt, put the crescent wrench on the shank against the back of the bolt head, and pull the bolt out while spinning the impact with the wrench. That's easier than trying to find some kind of punch that will be able to fit in and push the bolt all the way out.
You should not be using a dremel for anything you've described.
As far as removing the broken bolt, there are many ways to do that, if any of the threads are sticking out, you might be able to grab them and turn it out. Or if you don't care about the shock, you could cut the bolt end off flush and drill it through the threads on the shock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand how taking the nut off the top of the shock will help? If that reduces the load on the bolt, I'm not understanding how. I've always taken the top nut off once the full assembly was off the car.
I've also been hammering at that bolt for the last couple days, no luck. You're describing how I've done suspension work in the past (just hammering the bolt out, and then hitting a crescent wrench placed behind the head), but this is a different situation. I think the bolt is rusted to some parts of the suspension, the bushing I'm guessing.
As for the rear, I tried to twist the other side out, but that snapped off too. I'm thinking I'll have to cut part of that off and drill the rest out. I just want to make sure I'm prepared with the right tools.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't remove the entire LCA then work on it off the car? I have had plenty of bolts snap from stock suspension but I have a high speed air powered cut off tool which ive used </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried using an air cutter, but the air compressor I've got is too weak to hold decent pressure. I don't want to try to remove the LCA (and strut with it) because I'm sure I'm just going to snap more bolts.
02-03-2008, 05:35 PM
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Re: (alfaaay)
You would be suprised on how easy those LCA bolts come out.Ive had way more look getting those rather than strut bolts.
Drop the LCA and strut together and change the springs from the top and reassemble.
Done/
Drop the LCA and strut together and change the springs from the top and reassemble.
Done/
02-03-2008, 05:53 PM
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Re: (93supercoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would be suprised on how easy those LCA bolts come out.Ive had way more look getting those rather than strut bolts.
Drop the LCA and strut together and change the springs from the top and reassemble.
Done/</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're referring to the front... that's what I'm apprehensive about. Trying to take more bolts out and just snapping more. If you mean the rear, I'm changing out the assembly for skunk2 full coilovers so I need the strut to come off as well.
Drop the LCA and strut together and change the springs from the top and reassemble.
Done/</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're referring to the front... that's what I'm apprehensive about. Trying to take more bolts out and just snapping more. If you mean the rear, I'm changing out the assembly for skunk2 full coilovers so I need the strut to come off as well.
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02-03-2008, 06:25 PM
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Re: (alfaaay)
IDK You have to kinda take the LCA off anyway to press out the old bushing, they are pressed in, and if the bolt is frozen in there it will probably ruin the bushing trying to get it out.
02-03-2008, 06:28 PM
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Re: (alfaaay)
Take the whole thing off and put it in a vice when you hit it. It needs something solid to brace it, because you are absorbing a lot of the shock from the hammer in the rubber bushings in all of the suspension parts. This has happened to me like 3 times. Man up and hit it or call someone who is bigger than you to come do it. It's not like they weld themselves together.
02-04-2008, 09:34 AM
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Re: (alfaaay)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alfaaay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't understand how taking the nut off the top of the shock will help? If that reduces the load on the bolt, I'm not understanding how. I've always taken the top nut off once the full assembly was off the car.
I've also been hammering at that bolt for the last couple days, no luck. You're describing how I've done suspension work in the past (just hammering the bolt out, and then hitting a crescent wrench placed behind the head), but this is a different situation. I think the bolt is rusted to some parts of the suspension, the bushing I'm guessing.
As for the rear, I tried to twist the other side out, but that snapped off too. I'm thinking I'll have to cut part of that off and drill the rest out. I just want to make sure I'm prepared with the right tools.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The force of the spring is only contained by One nut if you remove the assemby intact from the car. Put the jack under the lca, remove that nut, and let the arm down with the jack. That uncompresses the spring. The strut top hat is still in place, but the top of the strut/shock isn't.
And never did I say hit the wrench to pull out the bolt. Read what I wrote again. The concept is using the impact gun to break the bolt loose, and then pulling it out by pulling on the wrench while the bolt is spinning. None of this should really take you very long to do.
I don't understand how taking the nut off the top of the shock will help? If that reduces the load on the bolt, I'm not understanding how. I've always taken the top nut off once the full assembly was off the car.
I've also been hammering at that bolt for the last couple days, no luck. You're describing how I've done suspension work in the past (just hammering the bolt out, and then hitting a crescent wrench placed behind the head), but this is a different situation. I think the bolt is rusted to some parts of the suspension, the bushing I'm guessing.
As for the rear, I tried to twist the other side out, but that snapped off too. I'm thinking I'll have to cut part of that off and drill the rest out. I just want to make sure I'm prepared with the right tools.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The force of the spring is only contained by One nut if you remove the assemby intact from the car. Put the jack under the lca, remove that nut, and let the arm down with the jack. That uncompresses the spring. The strut top hat is still in place, but the top of the strut/shock isn't.
And never did I say hit the wrench to pull out the bolt. Read what I wrote again. The concept is using the impact gun to break the bolt loose, and then pulling it out by pulling on the wrench while the bolt is spinning. None of this should really take you very long to do.
02-04-2008, 09:37 AM
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Re: (narfdanarf)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by narfdanarf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Man up and hit it or call someone who is bigger than you to come do it. It's not like they weld themselves together.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't even need a "big guy" to do any of this. You can still easily do it if you're only 135lbs.
You don't even need a "big guy" to do any of this. You can still easily do it if you're only 135lbs.
02-04-2008, 03:29 PM
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Re: (narfdanarf)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by narfdanarf »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man up and hit it or call someone who is bigger than you to come do it. It's not like they weld themselves together.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll try finding a way to get more leverage on it because apparently I'm too weak. They don't weld themselves together, but rust can "fuse" metals together, which is part of what I suspect is the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The force of the spring is only contained by One nut if you remove the assemby intact from the car. Put the jack under the lca, remove that nut, and let the arm down with the jack. That uncompresses the spring. The strut top hat is still in place, but the top of the strut/shock isn't.
And never did I say hit the wrench to pull out the bolt. Read what I wrote again. The concept is using the impact gun to break the bolt loose, and then pulling it out by pulling on the wrench while the bolt is spinning. None of this should really take you very long to do. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what you're saying now about unloading the spring. That might be the best way to take care of this. And, the bolt doesn't spin, it doesn't move, that's the problem... if it got tapped out at least a bit I could try that, but it's flush up against the fork.
I'll try finding a way to get more leverage on it because apparently I'm too weak. They don't weld themselves together, but rust can "fuse" metals together, which is part of what I suspect is the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The force of the spring is only contained by One nut if you remove the assemby intact from the car. Put the jack under the lca, remove that nut, and let the arm down with the jack. That uncompresses the spring. The strut top hat is still in place, but the top of the strut/shock isn't.
And never did I say hit the wrench to pull out the bolt. Read what I wrote again. The concept is using the impact gun to break the bolt loose, and then pulling it out by pulling on the wrench while the bolt is spinning. None of this should really take you very long to do. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what you're saying now about unloading the spring. That might be the best way to take care of this. And, the bolt doesn't spin, it doesn't move, that's the problem... if it got tapped out at least a bit I could try that, but it's flush up against the fork.
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