wrecked lsd?
Hello, newb to the honda tech forum...I have done some searching and the answers given don't add up to me....I have a 92 cx h/b with a swapped b18 and an lsd swapped into gsr s80 trans....it is a road race car nly, not registered for street..I will ry not to bore anyone here but I race endurance and last month in Spokane Wa. car ran flawless with a b16 in it...was forced to do engine swap to non vtec b18...ok fine...all is done ...put new rear trailing arm bushings in, new kyb gr2 with h&r springs and skunk 2 ucas... and for first time ever had caqr professionally aligned with camber...previously car was on chopped stock springs and stock shocks (worn out) and cracked rear bushings,,,
fast forward to this past friday...when motor swap was done put fresh fill of honda mtl with lsd modifier (at recommendation of diff installer, previously using synchromesh)...put car on track..shifts violently left to right and back under straight line accel only...not so bad in 3rd but when shift is made to 4th and also when just pulling along in 4th (or lifting before brake) car moves violently to the side...all is fine in the corners...only on straight in the taller gears (and higher speeds)...it it a fight to keep from hitting other cars or the wall....
between race 1 and 2...put regular upper arms back in to ensure upper bj was not shifting...put wheel alignment back to my own previous specs
1/8 toe out front and a fraction toe out rear for rotation...no change...
has anyone heard of helical typew lsd swapping power from wheel to wheel while in straight line?...is it a poor choice of friction modifier allowing tranny to unlock in a straight line and swap power back and forth to the wheels...worked perfectly 1 month ago...swapped in b18. new rear bushings, alignment pro done to zero to rear and 1/16 out ftont 2.5 deg camber...car works perfect in corner, olnly becomes very sketchy straight line
All forum answers point to worn or mis alligned parts...
Any opinions?car was perfect 1 month ago and now this...help!
fast forward to this past friday...when motor swap was done put fresh fill of honda mtl with lsd modifier (at recommendation of diff installer, previously using synchromesh)...put car on track..shifts violently left to right and back under straight line accel only...not so bad in 3rd but when shift is made to 4th and also when just pulling along in 4th (or lifting before brake) car moves violently to the side...all is fine in the corners...only on straight in the taller gears (and higher speeds)...it it a fight to keep from hitting other cars or the wall....
between race 1 and 2...put regular upper arms back in to ensure upper bj was not shifting...put wheel alignment back to my own previous specs
1/8 toe out front and a fraction toe out rear for rotation...no change...
has anyone heard of helical typew lsd swapping power from wheel to wheel while in straight line?...is it a poor choice of friction modifier allowing tranny to unlock in a straight line and swap power back and forth to the wheels...worked perfectly 1 month ago...swapped in b18. new rear bushings, alignment pro done to zero to rear and 1/16 out ftont 2.5 deg camber...car works perfect in corner, olnly becomes very sketchy straight line
All forum answers point to worn or mis alligned parts...
Any opinions?car was perfect 1 month ago and now this...help!
Its the fault of Honda tranny fluid. Maybe you should yakno take it apart and look? Or probably would be smart to thoroughly look over suspension and steering. Then drivetran. Maybe you should bring your car to someone qualified?
OP when you say it shifts violently left and right are you saying that the body of the car is rolling left to right, swaying left to right. Coming in and out of corners you stated are good so tranny is almost ruled out. The only thing left is your alignment. You had it set to -2.5 degrees but during track day you replace them with the stock upper control arms? And honestly I'm trying to google helical type w and nothing is coming up.
Yet another useless one.
OP when you say it shifts violently left and right are you saying that the body of the car is rolling left to right, swaying left to right. Coming in and out of corners you stated are good so tranny is almost ruled out. The only thing left is your alignment. You had it set to -2.5 degrees but during track day you replace them with the stock upper control arms? And honestly I'm trying to google helical type w and nothing is coming up.
OP when you say it shifts violently left and right are you saying that the body of the car is rolling left to right, swaying left to right. Coming in and out of corners you stated are good so tranny is almost ruled out. The only thing left is your alignment. You had it set to -2.5 degrees but during track day you replace them with the stock upper control arms? And honestly I'm trying to google helical type w and nothing is coming up.
Sorry if my posting seems like a pre-schooler, I was just trying to get to the point as opposed to worrying about the grammar police. This post might not be an improvement.
I searched for a while first before I posted. I am not a liscenced mechanic by any means but have been I have been working in the auto industry for over 20 years...I am not a young-un. I have been racing this same car for over 5 years now and I believe I can sort things out on the fly pretty well with it.
Previously, as stated, the suspension set-up was less than ideal with worn out stock components but the car tracked straight and true...only pulled one way or the other if I had some wheel slip on exit. when the car sits static the steering wheel is centered but on track, when the car hits over about 80mph the car jumps sideways to the point where I need to correct the steering wheel by almost a 1/4 turn one way or the other. This is a cx with a manual rack.
The resaon I removed the skunk uppers was as much for a solidly mounted upper ball joint (maybe it was shifting) as it was for trying to reverse the changes I made since the previous race. My alignment provided me with a completely 0 toe car with 2.5 deg front camber as I asked (unless the print out was wrong). I dialed in 1/16 toe out in the front with my toe plates as that is what I like to run. We are running on bfg rivals and they are worn wonderfully even after 1 rotation 5 hours in to the 11 hours we raced so this may indicate a reasonably well aligned car. I have yet to pull the car off of the trailer to have a look, I was just poking around to see if such a thing was ever heard of.
My only other "change" from the last race was that I pressed in new rear trailing arm bushings. The are just stock type (moog I think). I used the blue point tool so I could do them on the car. I marked the 'clock' position with the car on the ground so I think I am close. Would an improperly clocked bushing cause this sensation in a straight line? I would have expected a lane drift in the corners. I am thinking about putting shericals in to eliminate that possibility.
My reasoning for the tranny was the slight chance that the lsd additive provided was allowing the diff to create a lock-unlock state in a straight line allowing the car to pull. The previous gm synchromesh displayed no such shift at my last event...with an even longer straight and higher speeds, hitting almost 120mph and rock solid.
Sorry for the rant, next race is in 4 weeks. Tranny is coming out for sure I was just hoping for some sage advice on the situation
One word, Paragraphs
its not the ******* Grammar police its to make it easier to understand what you are saying.
I have no Idea why you are using Friction modifier for a Helical Lsd it is not required, You only need regular MTF.
I doubt its your transmission. have you checked your rear toe?
its not the ******* Grammar police its to make it easier to understand what you are saying.
I have no Idea why you are using Friction modifier for a Helical Lsd it is not required, You only need regular MTF.
I doubt its your transmission. have you checked your rear toe?
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Ok
sorry
lets try one more time.
Has anyone ever heard of a helical lsd (this one is in a b-swapped civic) locking and unlocking while under power in a straight line?
The sensation I am feeling is as though the power is being transferred from left to right or both wheels to a single wheel causing the car to pull/dive left/right while under power in a straight line
The car shifts probably 3-4 feet each time (sometimes left sometimes right) and gets worse at higher speeds. 3rd gear 70 mph - seems fine, shift to 4th up to 100mph- car stars wandering, shift to 5th - 110 mph and it is all over the place.
the only parts that were not put back on the car to try to rectify the situation were the new rear trailing arm bushings (stock style) that I pressed in.
I appreciate any opinions given toward alignment/suspension situations but I was hoping for an opinion on the lsd...is it possible for this to happen and be related to the diff?
thanks again Honda-Tech community
sorry
lets try one more time.
Has anyone ever heard of a helical lsd (this one is in a b-swapped civic) locking and unlocking while under power in a straight line?
The sensation I am feeling is as though the power is being transferred from left to right or both wheels to a single wheel causing the car to pull/dive left/right while under power in a straight line
The car shifts probably 3-4 feet each time (sometimes left sometimes right) and gets worse at higher speeds. 3rd gear 70 mph - seems fine, shift to 4th up to 100mph- car stars wandering, shift to 5th - 110 mph and it is all over the place.
the only parts that were not put back on the car to try to rectify the situation were the new rear trailing arm bushings (stock style) that I pressed in.
I appreciate any opinions given toward alignment/suspension situations but I was hoping for an opinion on the lsd...is it possible for this to happen and be related to the diff?
thanks again Honda-Tech community
I don't think it's related to the Diff. I'm thinking something is Broken Under your car, something that is causing your Toe in the rear of the car to Shift under Accel,
A Helical Diff won't do what you're describing, If it was a clutch pack diff it May Do what your Describing but it would do it all the time not just under Accel
A Helical Diff won't do what you're describing, If it was a clutch pack diff it May Do what your Describing but it would do it all the time not just under Accel
I don't think it's related to the Diff. I'm thinking something is Broken Under your car, something that is causing your Toe in the rear of the car to Shift under Accel,
A Helical Diff won't do what you're describing, If it was a clutch pack diff it May Do what your Describing but it would do it all the time not just under Accel
A Helical Diff won't do what you're describing, If it was a clutch pack diff it May Do what your Describing but it would do it all the time not just under Accel
captured nut in subframe for right front lower control arm had come unattatched so bolt and subsequently lower arm was walking in and out almot 1/2 inch...couldn't move it while on the ground but as soon as I got most of the front suspension pulled apart on the hoist it was flopping in the breeze...new subframe going in...thanks to all that tried to help. tranny is (fingers crossed) fine.
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