ok so before i get to ripping and tearing on my car i need to make sure i have the correct transmission....right now my car has the e7f trans bolted to a d16z6....but it has a massive hole in the case. i purchased a E5F transmission to replace it with but im getting mixed stories as to if it will work or not......someone please tell me it will

 

What is the E5F out of? Any '92 - '00 D-series manual transmission will work.

 

The E5F is an S40 LX 1996-2000 and the E7F is the DX 3 door S40 1996-2000. They are the same except the FD ratio. The E5F has a 4.06 FD and the E7F has a 3.72 ratio FD. You can use either one.

 

thanks guys......so there for my car is gonna be slow as **** throughout third gear lol

 

Yes, but at least it'll be faster than what was in there before.

 

just curious what should a eg coupe with a z6 with i/h/e with that trans pull in the 1/4 mile

 

There's way to many factors to really give you a good answer. Elevation, tires, tune, temperature, humidity, track, etc all figure in. It will be slow though I can tell you that. If I was to guess, figure between high 16s and 17 flat.

 

DAMN lol that is slow as *****....oh well it dont much matter its just a daily driver. was hoping for atleast a 15 lol....time to get to work on the other engine

 

Then explain a D15B7 running a DX tranny which is same gearing as E5F, all stock, running 15.9's in 1997?

It wasn't the driver mod either, I sucked back then! My first ever pass was 16.44 on 195/50/15 which SLOWED the car down.

 

You're either a way better driver than you give yourself credit for or you have way better conditions there than we do here. I know guys around here running 16.00 with a Y8 + Y8 tranny in an EX coupe. Buddy of mine ran something like 16.5 with a B16A swap and LS tranny in a '96 hatch. The only guy I remember running your setup mostly ran around 17 flat, best run was 16.65, to be fair it had 500,000kms on it, burned more oil than gas and had a slipping clutch, but even if it was running good I don't think you could hit 15.9 here with it. Which is why these scenarios are kinda useless, too many variables.

 

well ill just wait til spring hits and find out for myself

 

One BIG factor could be they are over cooling the motor between passes. Typical Mustang thought with ICE on the intake manifold.

Water temp NEEDS to be 155 when rolling into water box, 170 when hitting the pre-stage beams. Before I added the Autometer water temp gauge my ET's varied by 1/2 second, hot passes were always quicker. Once I learned the temp range, later confirmed by Doug @ Hondata, my ET's where bracket racing consistent.

"MY" D15B7 combo went a best of 15.08 on 20" slicks.

 

here is my issue......put the transmission in and the axles wont go in cause there is a pin in my way.....new axles needed? cause the trans i believe is for a 96-2000 lx model....hurry and reply asap lol

 

The diff pin in the middle you mean? It's supposed to be there. It was in the last tranny too before it went through the side of the case.

Nope. Sometimes you have to play with the axles a bit to get them seated, Give them a sharp snap when putting them in and they should go. Btw all '92 - '00 D-series axles are the same, civic/del sol, auto/manual, abs/non-abs (other than the ABS ring which just means the ABS wont function if using non abs axles on an abs car)

 

ya i figured it out it was just me being tired and aaggrevated..... but i got the trans in car hit the ground started it up and the input shaft bearing is shot knew i shoulda changed it but my buddy said not to worry about it and my dumbass agreed with him.

 

Glad you got it figured out.

That sucks I remember way back the first time I had to replace an engine. I bought a used junkyard D15B7, got it in and started it up and it was smoking, It was a very disappointing experience to replace and engine only to find out it burned oil (blew the headgasket in it about a month after that too) I'd advise you to find a used Z6 tranny, take it apart, replace what needs replacing and put it back together.