wiring relay for 2nd fan
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Will wiring a 2nd fan like this using a relay cause it to kick on when the stock fan does???????????????????????
30 - power from battery with 30amp inline fuse
85 - to chassis ground
86 - to power wire from oem fan plug
87 - to power wire of 2nd fan "if pusher then to negative wire"
30 - power from battery with 30amp inline fuse
85 - to chassis ground
86 - to power wire from oem fan plug
87 - to power wire of 2nd fan "if pusher then to negative wire"
30- fused power from batt.
85- from 12V switched, [hot when ign. switch is on.
86- from ECT switch, [ground when engine temp. is about 200 degrees F]
87- fans power lead, [ground fan to cars chassis].
Your relay wiring will also work if the OEM fans power is the one that is switched
Using a "pusher" fan along with a puller fan can result in less air flow then just haveing a pusher or puller fan. 94
85- from 12V switched, [hot when ign. switch is on.
86- from ECT switch, [ground when engine temp. is about 200 degrees F]
87- fans power lead, [ground fan to cars chassis].
Your relay wiring will also work if the OEM fans power is the one that is switched
Using a "pusher" fan along with a puller fan can result in less air flow then just haveing a pusher or puller fan. 94
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From: latitude 39.6 longitude 78.9
30- fused power from batt.
85- from 12V switched, [hot when ign. switch is on.
86- from ECT switch, [ground when engine temp. is about 200 degrees F]
87- fans power lead, [ground fan to cars chassis].
Your relay wiring will also work if the OEM fans power is the one that is switched
Using a "pusher" fan along with a puller fan can result in less air flow then just having a pusher or puller fan. 94
85- from 12V switched, [hot when ign. switch is on.
86- from ECT switch, [ground when engine temp. is about 200 degrees F]
87- fans power lead, [ground fan to cars chassis].
Your relay wiring will also work if the OEM fans power is the one that is switched
Using a "pusher" fan along with a puller fan can result in less air flow then just having a pusher or puller fan. 94
as for 86... Is that the single pin connector on the side of the head or on the thermo housing? Do I use the + or -
Mine is also a 94 Integra, I run two MIZU fans off the stock relay, I just paralled the fan leads... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ZU+rad+install
The ECT switch is a 2 wire sensor, [green and black leads] at the thermostat housing, it is the green one you want, it supplies a ground when engine temp. is up, the green lead is also found at the rad fan relay, connect the green to #86 of relay. 94
The ECT switch is a 2 wire sensor, [green and black leads] at the thermostat housing, it is the green one you want, it supplies a ground when engine temp. is up, the green lead is also found at the rad fan relay, connect the green to #86 of relay. 94
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Mine is also a 94 Integra, I run two MIZU fans off the stock relay, I just paralled the fan leads... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ZU+rad+install
The ECT switch is a 2 wire sensor, [green and black leads] at the thermostat housing, it is the green one you want, it supplies a ground when engine temp. is up, the green lead is also found at the rad fan relay, connect the green to #86 of relay. 94
The ECT switch is a 2 wire sensor, [green and black leads] at the thermostat housing, it is the green one you want, it supplies a ground when engine temp. is up, the green lead is also found at the rad fan relay, connect the green to #86 of relay. 94
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As long as the load does not exceed 20A.
The rad fan fuse is 20A, [fuse 33] so as long as the two fans do not draw more then 20A then the two fans can be wired together and no 2nd relay is needed
If you do not know the current draw of the fans the simplest way to test them is to wire them up, [parallel] run engine untill fans turn on, if 20A fuse does not blow, your good to go, max currant draw is when fans first turn on. 94
The rad fan fuse is 20A, [fuse 33] so as long as the two fans do not draw more then 20A then the two fans can be wired together and no 2nd relay is needed
If you do not know the current draw of the fans the simplest way to test them is to wire them up, [parallel] run engine untill fans turn on, if 20A fuse does not blow, your good to go, max currant draw is when fans first turn on. 94
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I know the fal draws 10amps according to their website. I called the company I bought the 2nd fan from and they said 5.7amps is what it draws so I should be good then. Thanks for your help fcm.
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One last thing. The fal fan is a diret plug in to my factory harness. The 2nd fan will be mounted on the outside of the rad as a pusher since my turbo setup doesn't allow room for it on the inside. So I would have to switch polarity on fan 2 which means wiring the + to the ground of the fal and the - to the positive. Is this going to cause some kind of problem for me or what?
It will not, DC motors do not have a "pos.(+) and neg.(-)" so they can be wired either way, reversing the polarity only changes the direction that the motor turns in, [what you want].
If you have the full size rad with rad fan on the pass. side then placing the second fan on the other side of rad on drivers side will work without any problems, the problem with push/pull fan setups is if they face each other, even though one is pulling and the other is pushing you can actually end up with less airflow then if you just have one fan pulling or pushing.
BTW, where is the intercooler? 94
If you have the full size rad with rad fan on the pass. side then placing the second fan on the other side of rad on drivers side will work without any problems, the problem with push/pull fan setups is if they face each other, even though one is pulling and the other is pushing you can actually end up with less airflow then if you just have one fan pulling or pushing.
BTW, where is the intercooler? 94
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Fmic is about 5" in front of the rad. I'm just hoping it will solve my issue. It's only when it's real hot or humid. New oem thermo so I don't think that's it. Idk
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