I hear a lot about b20 sleeves being weak. just want to know if it would be safe to run some 11.5 to 1 pistons in it? This will be for a b20/vtec of course, using a b16 head.

 

the sleeves will hold just fine......

 

It will hold assuming you stay within reasonable revving limits.

 

Here comes the mandatory "It's all in the tuning"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieB20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here comes the mandatory "It's all in the tuning"</TD></TR></TABLE>
and the "do a search!!! "
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=547557

 

how bout 12 to 1 and reving to 9000 rpm?

 

sleeve the block so you don't have to worry.

i've seen 4 blocks crack in the exact same place...

if you don't sleeve the block, you might as well run a gsr, itr bottom end.

 

it's all in the tuning.

generaly - RPM does not crack sleeves, detonation does...

so dont goto the guy that tuned the engines chet is talking about, LOL

 

i look at things differently...

crv blocks have shown in the past to have weak sleeves...yes...most of the time its related to poor tuning...

however if i'm going the CRV block route over ITR block...i'm going to want more than 200whp.

and using a stock crv block is going to be pushed to the limits with over 200whp without excellent tuning...and while people have done it and gotten 220whp i'm simply not one to take any chances...especially when the cost of sleeving ends up being much less when compared to sleeve failure.

thats just how i do things...and is why i bought a brand new ITR head from honda and a brand new ITR bottom end.

sleeving is only 1000 dollars...which isn't that much when thinking about the cost of taking apart the motor once it fails...the cost of another block, or sleeving it at that point...new rings, pistons...rods...bearings...etc...can all become expensive if a complete rebuild needs to take place.

thats where i'm coming from...obviously its all a matter of opinion...i just like reliability.

 

a rich kid eh?

they always look at things differently...

 

Oh snap!!
(Just trying something new. "Owned" is so over used.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a rich kid eh?

they always look at things differently...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not a rich kid by any standard...

my mom makes 60k a year...and my dad makes much less than that...parents are seperated and its basically my mom that helps me if i need it.

i save my money and try to do things the right way the first time whenever possible...as it usually ends up saving money in the long run.

again, thats just how i see things...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i bought a brand new ITR head from honda and a brand new ITR bottom end.

sleeving is only 1000 dollars...

thats where i'm coming from...obviously its all a matter of opinion...i just like reliability. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i like reliability too, but i aint gunna fork out stupid dollars just for the sake of it...

reliability comes from due care and dilligence, not cash...

cash helps, but why advocate something that is unnecessary when the money could be better spent in othere places...

especailly with such a mild set-up of 11.5:1

on a 12:1 revving so high, it would be still better to spend money at the dyno tuning than just forking out for expensive sleeves that are jsut going to be able to take bad tuning...

well, thats just my opinion...

 

i spent 1350 on the ITR head

2050 on the bottom end...

300 on various other parts...

have a brand new longblock for 3650...plus i spent 1550 on ITR tranny...

so thats 5150 total for my setup...

 

that helps the b20 sleeves question doesnt it?

 

well, in a way it does.

b20 block costs 800...

another 100 for oil lines...and other things needed to do b20vtec.

for another 1200...you can have yourself a BRAND NEW bottom end.

thus, i'd say its a better decision to at least find a clean gsr/itr shortblock and use that...as its going to be more reliable.

 

i agree, but who cares?

i want an 84mm bore, for 880 and thats what i get.

gobs more power, *perhaps* less reliability...

i thrash mine so hard i expect to rebuildit in 25'000miles, which will proabbly take another 12 months to rack up...

so what - i actually enjoy working on my engine...

what i think your mistake is that you dont really know what <u>reliability</u> is.

an engine breaks from detonation - that DOENST mean it was *unreliable* does it???

so, when you say unreliable, do you mean that it might break easier if you dont tune it or do you mean it will last 100'000miles?

anyways, im outta here...

hope this is some food for thought chet, enjoy...

 

first of all...gobs more power is slightly inaccurate....if you're using stock crv pistons...

i'll make 185, 135 with my setup...possibly more.

if you make more power...it won't be by much...and again a gsr/itr block will rev better and last longer, as its factory honda!

now i agree, for fully built setups the 2 liter+ crv block is an excellent setup...but i wouldn't bother unless i made it bulletproof.

 

hmmm, how much is much? what is a gob?

at a recent dyno day, with mostly DC2's and a few DC5's - the stock unmodded DC2 type r's were making 90 to 93kw ATW, the modified ones with I/H/E were making 95 to 101kw ATW, my b20vtec with stock b16a cams, b16a intake manifold and only cam gears and jdm 4-1 headers made 105kw ATW - the highest of the B series...

the stock K series were making 101 to 105kw ATW and the ones with intake and exhust made 110 and 114kw ATW.

so for comparison, my b20vtec with stock B20B bottom end, stock b16a cams and stock intake manifold with cam gears and 4-1 headers and 2.25in exhaust makes as much power as a stock DC5 Type R

i now have R cams and is yet to be tuned with vafc, but i can see that it will probably make a few more kw at the top end...

dont be so quick to knock a setup because Honda did not build it

 

can anyone convert kw to lb/ft

 

No cause Kw is horsepower not torque. 100Kw on that dyno is about 150whp