maybe a little but you better off with Radius Arms but it looks cool...

 

here is the jim fab bars...

I think these are way better than the z10, they are built with the honda engine in mind


here he shows the how beefy they are


and attached to the car


I plan on getting me a pair of these and his mounts


[Modified by infamousLSVTEC, 9:48 PM 2/7/2003]

 

Does anyone here have any experience with the Jimfab traction bars? I've heard of many people that swear by their Z10 traction bars, but no one with Jimfab. They look good and strong, but they need a coat of paint to make them look cleaner IMO.

 

yeah i highly considering them too...im pretty sure thats just a pre-production model...there production bars for the CRX are coated...



[Modified by 10K2HVN, 9:11 PM 2/9/2003]

 

Solid urethane upper drivers side mount and upper tranny moun...Wheel hop gone

 

I have LSD, urathane mounts, ES full kit, Tokiko 5 way, ST Sways..... and still wheel hop like none other. I usually run A032R tires, both in 13 and 15" sizes. I really don't want to get the z10 bars cause I don't know how good they would be for road course, but I am thinking about the inner fender bars.

 

Myself and Dropspeed( ITR) are using the Z-10 kit on the track, it works fine. It actually helps keep the car very stable under braking. I was afraid it would act as a big front sway bar(bind the susp.), but the point at which it would bind is far too high for it to have any effect. It's a very good investment IMO.
I just wish mine was silver, not the red they used to make them in...

 

what is the cost of JimFab or the z10's?
(for 93 cx)

 

I to got a clutch and flywheel when i did my motor swap...i have horible wheel hop from first to second and second to third...but i'v been reading and it seems as though what i'm experiencing could be clutch chatter...eny ideas, the car is still on stock suspension and some shitty falkin tires i'm running a act street strip clutch and a assco flywheel...eny explinations would be much apreciated

 

jim fab- $300 +shipping

z10- $389 + shipping

the jim fab is a better deal and better built system.

 

How do these bars affect your daily drivability? Turning radius, etc. etc. ?

 

^ Anyone?

 

I have 7" wide wheels with a 43 offset and BFG drag radials mounted to them, with the Z10 kit I have a bit of rubbing at full lock on the radius rod. Not really an issue though. I love the kit. It really helps the front end hook up accelerating out of corners. Front end feels loose without it.
It looks like the JimFab kit, with that wacky(heavy) mounting to the control arm, moves the rear connection point of the radius rod inboard so that rubbing may or may not be an issue. Anyone have the JimFab kit with anything other(wider) than 15x6.5"? Experience -not speculation- would be helpful on that one.

 

well..Chrome Moly is pretty light...and the Z10's are base price is $389, Aluminuim $433, *Chrome Moly* $675...and JimFab's are already *Chrome-Moly* and they are only $300 even...of course, you get what you pay for..but some of the times what you get is just a name..or a monopoly product...

 

eh? thats wicked.
Hmmmm...... must........work....overtime......to....afford.... .jimFab bars!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Name means nothing- results speak for themselves.
Didn't know they were chrome-moly. Very cool indeed.

 

jim fab gives a lifetime warrenty on all of his products so if something bends or breaks on your bars they will replace it. I was worried about the rear mount bending but he told me he would replace it if it does but it has survived a 600hp drag car.

 

Anyone got a link or a phone # to get these JimFab units?

 

http://www.jimfab.com

 

heres his number also...

1-760-419-6143

 

I WHOLEHEARTEDLY agree. The z10 bars are phenominal! IMO, this is the only option to go with to completely eliminate wheel hop.

 

 

I have the protype for the Jimfab bars. Even they are not bling bling they are so much more better designed. ffgeoff and Arvin her on HT desinged the Z10 and he talks about their flaws here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=376166

 

Good info from FFGeoff. BUT, the travel that is required to get the suspension to bind with the Z10, the trie would be through the hood! I had this same concern when buying the parts. It does look like the Jimfab piece is better in theis area, but, DOTIRES RUB ON IT? Who's actually using the Jimfab part?

 

this CAD drawing with its notes makes it it pretty clear as to which one to choose as far as binding goes...but its a little inaccurate because the of the point that it mounts at is not the same...
This is where the Z10 mounts on the control arm...

And this is where the JimFab design mounts at...

..the drawing shows that they mount at the same point..but in reality they dont..! Z10's design mounts futher out on the control arm then the JimFab does..thus having better leverage and with better leverage comes better control to hold the control arm steady...With this in mind..i think that the Z10 radius arm has a *better* chance at "eliminating wheel hop"...but with suspension binding in mind -due to the fact that the rods connect to the crossmember further-in then the car's suspension pivot-point, then the JimFab design might be a better choice for the street and roadrace...but for the straight line and no speed bumps, dips and driveways (where the suspension has to move up and down a lot) i think the better control of the control arms will work better.......feel free to disagree...