What oil?
Hello,
Had a B16a1 full rebuild. The mechanic suggested I use any ol 30 wieght until break in. The car sat for a long time, and the engine only has about 80 miles on it. the first 40 miles were easy miles, and the rest were tougher not to extreme though. but random starts here and there.
My question is: What oil would you recommend? I was going to use regular casteroil 30. but how long should be break in? I would like to get some sort of synthetic oil, you know-
Its been a while since I got my head into the hondas, and could use some advice.
Thank you
Had a B16a1 full rebuild. The mechanic suggested I use any ol 30 wieght until break in. The car sat for a long time, and the engine only has about 80 miles on it. the first 40 miles were easy miles, and the rest were tougher not to extreme though. but random starts here and there.
My question is: What oil would you recommend? I was going to use regular casteroil 30. but how long should be break in? I would like to get some sort of synthetic oil, you know-
Its been a while since I got my head into the hondas, and could use some advice.
Thank you
Well I got ahold of the engine builder. He said stick with 30 as "those high RPM" motors tend to suck the thinner oil through the valve guides at high RPM.
His method of breaking in the motor was letting it idle for about 10 hrs. which after reading some HT archives causes me a bit of concern. I definitely brought the rpm up n a couple pulls down the street though......
His method of breaking in the motor was letting it idle for about 10 hrs. which after reading some HT archives causes me a bit of concern. I definitely brought the rpm up n a couple pulls down the street though......
I don't agree with your builder.
Idling for 10 hours may be the most foolish advice i've actually heard. The rings are the only thing that break in and they need to see all engine conditions within the first few running hours to seat correctly. But this is only my opinion based on many years of building and dynoing using different methods.
Also, this oil weight thing makes zero sense either. Straight 30 weight or 5w, 10w? Thats the most common oil available so I don't see how that the golden ticket for "high rpm motors" The valve guide statement is arbitrary.
You can ask 5 different builders and get 5 different opinions but I don't think any will agree that 10 hours of idling is by any means a good method.
Idling for 10 hours may be the most foolish advice i've actually heard. The rings are the only thing that break in and they need to see all engine conditions within the first few running hours to seat correctly. But this is only my opinion based on many years of building and dynoing using different methods.
Also, this oil weight thing makes zero sense either. Straight 30 weight or 5w, 10w? Thats the most common oil available so I don't see how that the golden ticket for "high rpm motors" The valve guide statement is arbitrary.
You can ask 5 different builders and get 5 different opinions but I don't think any will agree that 10 hours of idling is by any means a good method.
I don't agree with your builder.
Idling for 10 hours may be the most foolish advice i've actually heard. The rings are the only thing that break in and they need to see all engine conditions within the first few running hours to seat correctly. But this is only my opinion based on many years of building and dynoing using different methods.
Also, this oil weight thing makes zero sense either. Straight 30 weight or 5w, 10w? Thats the most common oil available so I don't see how that the golden ticket for "high rpm motors" The valve guide statement is arbitrary.
You can ask 5 different builders and get 5 different opinions but I don't think any will agree that 10 hours of idling is by any means a good method.
Idling for 10 hours may be the most foolish advice i've actually heard. The rings are the only thing that break in and they need to see all engine conditions within the first few running hours to seat correctly. But this is only my opinion based on many years of building and dynoing using different methods.
Also, this oil weight thing makes zero sense either. Straight 30 weight or 5w, 10w? Thats the most common oil available so I don't see how that the golden ticket for "high rpm motors" The valve guide statement is arbitrary.
You can ask 5 different builders and get 5 different opinions but I don't think any will agree that 10 hours of idling is by any means a good method.
dude says 30 weight
I didnt get into it that much with him, because after his idea of idling my brand new motor all day turned my stomach, and the build was seven years ago.
I only changed the oil once and I used 5w-30, as winter vicosity was a concern and The honder was parked in cold weather.
but the poor car has been sitting for a very long time my friend, and amongst the list of things to do before I turn the key, I'm wondering what kind of oil to put in it now. not gonna lie, engine has 40 failrly easy miles on it-from the shop to the garage. then I I drove the hell outta that car, about 5 times, and only up and down the street because its RHD and not registered.
I don't agree with your builder.
Idling for 10 hours may be the most foolish advice i've actually heard. The rings are the only thing that break in and they need to see all engine conditions within the first few running hours to seat correctly. But this is only my opinion based on many years of building and dynoing using different methods.
Also, this oil weight thing makes zero sense either. Straight 30 weight or 5w, 10w? Thats the most common oil available so I don't see how that the golden ticket for "high rpm motors" The valve guide statement is arbitrary.
You can ask 5 different builders and get 5 different opinions but I don't think any will agree that 10 hours of idling is by any means a good method.
Idling for 10 hours may be the most foolish advice i've actually heard. The rings are the only thing that break in and they need to see all engine conditions within the first few running hours to seat correctly. But this is only my opinion based on many years of building and dynoing using different methods.
Also, this oil weight thing makes zero sense either. Straight 30 weight or 5w, 10w? Thats the most common oil available so I don't see how that the golden ticket for "high rpm motors" The valve guide statement is arbitrary.
You can ask 5 different builders and get 5 different opinions but I don't think any will agree that 10 hours of idling is by any means a good method.
Ok- Now we're talking-
dude says 30 weight
I didnt get into it that much with him, because after his idea of idling my brand new motor all day turned my stomach, and the build was seven years ago.
I only changed the oil once and I used 5w-30, as winter vicosity was a concern and The honder was parked in cold weather.
but the poor car has been sitting for a very long time my friend, and amongst the list of things to do before I turn the key, I'm wondering what kind of oil to put in it now. not gonna lie, engine has 40 failrly easy miles on it-from the shop to the garage. then I I drove the hell outta that car, about 5 times, and only up and down the street because its RHD and not registered.
dude says 30 weight
I didnt get into it that much with him, because after his idea of idling my brand new motor all day turned my stomach, and the build was seven years ago.
I only changed the oil once and I used 5w-30, as winter vicosity was a concern and The honder was parked in cold weather.
but the poor car has been sitting for a very long time my friend, and amongst the list of things to do before I turn the key, I'm wondering what kind of oil to put in it now. not gonna lie, engine has 40 failrly easy miles on it-from the shop to the garage. then I I drove the hell outta that car, about 5 times, and only up and down the street because its RHD and not registered.
What the guy above said is true,you'll get varying answers from different people,my answer is based on my experience with the engines Ive rebuilt over the last 20 years or so....
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HA0589
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