VTEC switch
Maybe I will post his here in the tech forum...
I am looking to possibly rig a switch for the VTEC, simple on/off switch.
Has ANYONE had any experience in doing this or heard of it being done? I am really looking more for the experience portion of it...
I am looking to possibly rig a switch for the VTEC, simple on/off switch.
Has ANYONE had any experience in doing this or heard of it being done? I am really looking more for the experience portion of it...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92GSR HB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your comes stock with a on/off switch its called not taking ur car to the RPM which its set at. What exactly would be the purpose of this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you are telling me you have no idea, right.... Then why respond. If you don't know, don't clutter my thread with jackass remarks, O.K
So you are telling me you have no idea, right.... Then why respond. If you don't know, don't clutter my thread with jackass remarks, O.K
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92GSR HB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. What exactly would be the purpose of this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My purpose for this is so VTEC can be kicked in at whatever point I want it to kick in, if at all. If I don't want it to, I leave it off, If I want it, I turn it on. Same concept of a light switch people!! Turn it on when you need it, and off when you don't.
It's all controlled by the ECU, right? Right. Vehicle speed sensor too, since it is at certain RPM's. Well at that specific RPM the ECU sends a signal to the solenoid saying "go go gadget Vtec" and away you go right? Well I am trying to see if anyone here has experience with interrupting that signal with one of their own telling the car when to Vtec... It's that simple.
Now... I see that there are at least 52 people that have no experience
with this situation. So please, if you aren't going to post anything educated, don't post in my thread.
My purpose for this is so VTEC can be kicked in at whatever point I want it to kick in, if at all. If I don't want it to, I leave it off, If I want it, I turn it on. Same concept of a light switch people!! Turn it on when you need it, and off when you don't.
It's all controlled by the ECU, right? Right. Vehicle speed sensor too, since it is at certain RPM's. Well at that specific RPM the ECU sends a signal to the solenoid saying "go go gadget Vtec" and away you go right? Well I am trying to see if anyone here has experience with interrupting that signal with one of their own telling the car when to Vtec... It's that simple.
Now... I see that there are at least 52 people that have no experience
with this situation. So please, if you aren't going to post anything educated, don't post in my thread.
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sorry if i was being a jackass and so called jacking up your thread. at the end of my comment i had a legit question and u kinda answered it for me. Not really fully understanding the point of having a switch though. If u want to take ur car to 8k wouldnt u want vtec to engage? Honestly it will be to much work to deal with fuel maps, remapping etc.
I've done the switch thing trust me you don't want to do it... maybe its a cheaper way its just like one of them vtec controllers on ebay for like $50...
how to make one..
Toggle Switch $2 (radio shack)
Wires about the size of your vtec solenoid(spark wires)... $3(radio shack)
Black tape...99cents(advance auto)
butt connectors....99cents(advance auto)
now run the speaker wires into the car to the toggle where ever you mount it.. now the engine bay one wire goes to the POSITIVE BATTERY.... the other goes to the SOLENOID itself... just unplug the solenoid... I hope you can figure the rest.. GOOD LUCK!
also you might want to get a LED light 12v radio shack also $1.. I had to make one of this crap for a kid that i did a h22a swap for into a non vtec accord... he wanted a SWITCH...
To be honest i dont think its WORTH it... but man what ever rocks your boat DO IT!!
how to make one..
Toggle Switch $2 (radio shack)
Wires about the size of your vtec solenoid(spark wires)... $3(radio shack)
Black tape...99cents(advance auto)
butt connectors....99cents(advance auto)
now run the speaker wires into the car to the toggle where ever you mount it.. now the engine bay one wire goes to the POSITIVE BATTERY.... the other goes to the SOLENOID itself... just unplug the solenoid... I hope you can figure the rest.. GOOD LUCK!
also you might want to get a LED light 12v radio shack also $1.. I had to make one of this crap for a kid that i did a h22a swap for into a non vtec accord... he wanted a SWITCH...
To be honest i dont think its WORTH it... but man what ever rocks your boat DO IT!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92GSR HB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry if i was being a jackass and so called jacking up your thread. at the end of my comment i had a legit question and u kinda answered it for me. Not really fully understanding the point of having a switch though. If u want to take ur car to 8k wouldnt u want vtec to engage? Honestly it will be to much work to deal with fuel maps, remapping etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah, I was in a shitty, ****-poor mood yesterday. Didn't mean to upset anyone or anything. I am fighting with some ******** on ebay cause he jacked me fo' my money.... ANYWAYS
I am just curious about the Vtec system, that's all. It seems almost redundant to have it to tell you the truth. If the engagement point is at 4k or 4500 RPM that's a range you don't see with regular driving. Unless you redline every gear, but you don't want to do that in morning or evening traffic! I had a thought about possibly a switch, kick it in a bit earlier. 3k-3500. THAT'S typical driving range.
Now why would this be a detriment to the motor? Vtec controllers are on the market that work about the same, right?
Many questions on this!
Nah, I was in a shitty, ****-poor mood yesterday. Didn't mean to upset anyone or anything. I am fighting with some ******** on ebay cause he jacked me fo' my money.... ANYWAYS
I am just curious about the Vtec system, that's all. It seems almost redundant to have it to tell you the truth. If the engagement point is at 4k or 4500 RPM that's a range you don't see with regular driving. Unless you redline every gear, but you don't want to do that in morning or evening traffic! I had a thought about possibly a switch, kick it in a bit earlier. 3k-3500. THAT'S typical driving range.
Now why would this be a detriment to the motor? Vtec controllers are on the market that work about the same, right?
Many questions on this!
thats cool man understandable. so you want to remap the ecu to engage vtec earlier then turn it off when u dont want to. I see what ur saying. U dont want to go to low with engage not smart. I say your better buyin a vtec controller and setting it low when u want to play and real high when u dont want 2.
ok mr.hondapowa.... if your running like a b16 or b18 or b20 vtec.... not good to go below 4000rpm... due to you might bend some valves... 3.0 is ok to go to 3500 rpm cause they can handle that but not our engines... but i agree with 92gsr HB there you should go with a vtec controller you can probably find like a FIELDS for like $100 now days... a Apexi is only like $160 up from what i've seen...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondapowa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am just curious about the Vtec system, that's all. It seems almost redundant to have it to tell you the truth. If the engagement point is at 4k or 4500 RPM that's a range you don't see with regular driving. Unless you redline every gear, but you don't want to do that in morning or evening traffic! I had a thought about possibly a switch, kick it in a bit earlier. 3k-3500. THAT'S typical driving range.
Now why would this be a detriment to the motor? Vtec controllers are on the market that work about the same, right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I understand what you're saying...a lot of people think "If VTEC is good at high rpms it has to be good at low". However, no disrespect but your train of thought shows a lack of understanding of VTEC and engine mechanics. There is a single point throught the rev range where the VTEC crossover will give you maximum performance throughout. Changing this point will give you less than maximum performance. Why would you want a switch that gives you the possibility of changing between the best performance and worse performance? Isn't the throttle enough?
You have enough to worry about between shifting gears, using the gas, the steering wheel, the clutch, the brakes, and paying attention to the road...and now you want to throw a switch in the mix that you have to press every time you hit 3500rpm? And it gives no performance benefit...man, I just don't see any point to it.
I am just curious about the Vtec system, that's all. It seems almost redundant to have it to tell you the truth. If the engagement point is at 4k or 4500 RPM that's a range you don't see with regular driving. Unless you redline every gear, but you don't want to do that in morning or evening traffic! I had a thought about possibly a switch, kick it in a bit earlier. 3k-3500. THAT'S typical driving range.
Now why would this be a detriment to the motor? Vtec controllers are on the market that work about the same, right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I understand what you're saying...a lot of people think "If VTEC is good at high rpms it has to be good at low". However, no disrespect but your train of thought shows a lack of understanding of VTEC and engine mechanics. There is a single point throught the rev range where the VTEC crossover will give you maximum performance throughout. Changing this point will give you less than maximum performance. Why would you want a switch that gives you the possibility of changing between the best performance and worse performance? Isn't the throttle enough?
You have enough to worry about between shifting gears, using the gas, the steering wheel, the clutch, the brakes, and paying attention to the road...and now you want to throw a switch in the mix that you have to press every time you hit 3500rpm? And it gives no performance benefit...man, I just don't see any point to it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lsos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no disrespect but your train of thought shows a lack of understanding of VTEC </TD></TR></TABLE>
I am new to Honda's. This is my first one, I have more experience with Ford Probes
The 93-97 GT's have a variable resonance induction system (VRIS) but it doesn't do anything with valve lift or timing. It's just an extra set of butterfly plates in the intake that open and close at different RPM's.
I wasn't really aware the VTEC system was so complicated! Sheesh...
Maybe a VAFC will be a better way to go, but so damn expensive.
no disrespect but your train of thought shows a lack of understanding of VTEC </TD></TR></TABLE>
I am new to Honda's. This is my first one, I have more experience with Ford Probes
The 93-97 GT's have a variable resonance induction system (VRIS) but it doesn't do anything with valve lift or timing. It's just an extra set of butterfly plates in the intake that open and close at different RPM's.
I wasn't really aware the VTEC system was so complicated! Sheesh...
Maybe a VAFC will be a better way to go, but so damn expensive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondapowa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wasn't really aware the VTEC system was so complicated! Sheesh...
Maybe a VAFC will be a better way to go, but so damn expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not that it's complicated, you're just thinking of it the wrong way. VTEC is not something that when you turn it on it gives you power, and when you turn it off it doesn't. Let me explain:
There's cams that give good performance at low rpms, and cams that give good performance at high rpms...but not both. You have to make a sacrifice. Race cars have high rpm cams, but then they have to idle them at like 3k and they don't go anywhere unless you rev the **** out of them. Street cars has cams for low rpm so that they can idle good and have decent low-end torque...but they die when you rev them higher.
VTEC solves this problem by giving you two cam profiles, so that you can have good low-rpm power and good high-rpm power. So, in a way VTEC is not on or off, it's simply always on. You're always on the best cam for whatever rpm you're at. There's a particular point in the rev-range where the low-cam dies off and the high cam gets good. That's where the crossover should be, and that's where it is set.
As such, having a switch only gives you the ability, in a sense, to turn off VTEC...to turn off it's gas-saving, idle-enhancing, torque-adding, power-increasing advantages. On top of that, it gives you another thing to worry about when driving. Imagine racing someone and having to press a switch every time the tack reads 4000rpm. 4000rpm comes and goes quick at lower gears, and whenever you shift. I challenge you to explain to anyone here why you would want to do this. It makes about as much sense as adding a switch that controls the spark plugs.
I wasn't really aware the VTEC system was so complicated! Sheesh...
Maybe a VAFC will be a better way to go, but so damn expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not that it's complicated, you're just thinking of it the wrong way. VTEC is not something that when you turn it on it gives you power, and when you turn it off it doesn't. Let me explain:
There's cams that give good performance at low rpms, and cams that give good performance at high rpms...but not both. You have to make a sacrifice. Race cars have high rpm cams, but then they have to idle them at like 3k and they don't go anywhere unless you rev the **** out of them. Street cars has cams for low rpm so that they can idle good and have decent low-end torque...but they die when you rev them higher.
VTEC solves this problem by giving you two cam profiles, so that you can have good low-rpm power and good high-rpm power. So, in a way VTEC is not on or off, it's simply always on. You're always on the best cam for whatever rpm you're at. There's a particular point in the rev-range where the low-cam dies off and the high cam gets good. That's where the crossover should be, and that's where it is set.
As such, having a switch only gives you the ability, in a sense, to turn off VTEC...to turn off it's gas-saving, idle-enhancing, torque-adding, power-increasing advantages. On top of that, it gives you another thing to worry about when driving. Imagine racing someone and having to press a switch every time the tack reads 4000rpm. 4000rpm comes and goes quick at lower gears, and whenever you shift. I challenge you to explain to anyone here why you would want to do this. It makes about as much sense as adding a switch that controls the spark plugs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92GSR HB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">highbeams? i never heard of it and cant be old school.</TD></TR></TABLE> trust me. it's an old school trick. i think people ran non-vtec ecus and just used a rich basemap so when they flick the highbeams, everything is good, well they think.....
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