ok i have a 2000 honda civic si. the vtec wont kick in at all. the check light is on and so is the service light.I took it to the garage and put it on the computer and it said my map sencor and coolant temp sencor was bad, so i replaced them and it didnt change anything. so i need some help..

 

Check codes again, and restart the ECU.....vtec will not engage if there are ANY cel's.

 

It might be your solenoid, i found this hope it helps

Remove the electronics for your vtec solenoid. run a wire from the positive battery terminal and touch it to the metal clip that your vtec solenoid wiring went into. you should here the solenoid click...... if it does then it is not your solenoid.

 

i checked the codes and when they would clear the codes the car would almost shut down then the check light would come back on and pick itself back up. so i dont know whats goin on. someone told me the car needed a new motor or rebuild. but it only has 87k miles on it.so what do i do?

 

i checked the codes and when i would clear them to where the check light went off the car would almost die and then the light would come back on and then the car would pick itself back up, a guy said the car needed a new motor or rebuit. so what do i do?

 

check your oil.

 

checked and changed it, but it did nothin, i changed sencors. and oil, but it all did nothin.

 

did you reset your ecu? what codes did you get after installing the new temp sensor and map sensor? same codes?

 

yea we reset it and got the same codes after like 3 sec.

 

did you replace with new sensors? or used ones?

 

brand new ones

 

you sure you reset your ecu? just take off the positive cable for like a minute. then put it back on.

also, it wont hit vtec if the oil isnt at operating temp. maybe the connections are bad on the coolant temp sensor.

 

try a different ECU and see if your getting any CEL?

 

well check your coolant line if they are correct. mines wasn't so my v-tec didn't work but i fix this and it works now. just a input that you can check.

 

Whoever said vtec won't work with the check engine light on is wrong. It depends on what is wrong on whether it'll work or not. And whoever said the oil needs to be up to operating temperature actually means the engine needs to be up to operating temperature. And whoever told you the engine needs to be rebuilt doesn't know what they are talking about.

The car needs to be up to operating temperature and it needs proper oil pressure. I'm pretty sure since the coolant temperature sensor isn't working the ecu doesn't know that the car is up to operating temperature so vtec will not work.

I don't know why the sensors would say they are bad, and you changed them, and it didn't fix the cels. I'd say do the trouble shooting procedures that are in the Mitchell Manual or take it to a professional that knows what they are doing.

The maintainance required light could be reset. There is a procedure to do it. On Integras there is a button under the driver side dash you push to reset it. On some Accords you hold the trip odometer down while turning the key to on and it resets it. I'm not sure how to do it on Civics.

 

Oh and try posting this in the Civic Forum so you get more views.

 

And are you hooking up an obd2 scanner and reseting the ecu while the car is running? You aren't suppose to do that and that is why the car is almost dying when you reset it.

 

GET RID OF THE CODES! i know for a fact that a CTS code will put a stop on vtec engagement. use a ohmmeter and check if your within spec. check voltage as well.

 

we did it once with the car running and twice with it not runnin, the compression is 130 150 125 and 100. and its not building oill pressure. i reset the ecu and it did nothing, and i checked the vacume hoses

 

Yea it will not work with the coolant temp sensor not working and throwing that code. If it's not building oil pressure that is your other reason vtec won't work. If your compression is that messed up and it won't build oil pressure your motor is in need of a rebuild so whoever told you that is right and you should've said something about that from the get go. Never reset your ecu with the scanner while the car is running. Time to tear it apart and rebuild it.

 

sounds like you need a new oil pump. and those numbers are way low for a b16. for that low of miles, something is deff wrong.

 

One last thing...if you're oil pressure is really low and it's not getting properly lubricated you're doing more and more damage every time you start the car. You might as well have the engine rebuilt before you spin a rod bearing, scar the crank up, damage the cylinder walls, mess your cam journals up, mess your cams up, etc. etc.

 

thanks man, do you know what a good rebuild kit is, and what parts will need to be replaced, i plan on rebuildin myself.