Ok, im sure everyone is tired of seeing my 19012387 threads with different issues. But here it goes..

again, i have a 93 ej1 w/b18c1 and a chipped p28 (i verified that there is a chip installed)

VTEC hasnt been working.. I checked all the basics; oil, wiring, tested solenoid, connection at the ecu etc.. And it still isnt working. So i decided to unplug both of the VTEC solenoid and pressure switch. I didnt get a CEL on startup (which i thought the VTEC sensors were part of the initial system check) so i went and drove it. I got well above 6-7k rpm (my tach is retarded, as stated in one of my other threads) and no CEL..

Wtf do i do?? I bought a different chipped obd1 ECU off ebay, but it gives me code 16 (fuel injector) and then stays solid, and is in limp mode.

Im legit lost..I feel like its narrowed down to the ECU, but that doesnt really help me since they are both F'ed up..

HELP!!! I dont know many people around here with hondas, and even LESS that know anything about them. You guys are my only source of info.. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

My best guess would be to verify that the chip is for a vtec engine. If it does not throw a cel with the solenoid unplugged i would think the chip is base mapped for an ls motor.

And the 2nd ecu could be picking up problems that the ls chip is masking.

I had some problems similar to this when i upgraded to ls/vtec.

I would suggest ordering a chip for you motor from phearable.net or somewhere similar. they cost like $20 or so for just the chip.

 

This

 

Alright ill look into it. Im going to try my friends ecu tomorrow. Anyone have any ideas why or what a solid CEL signifies? Google is my friend i guess..ill see what i can find.

 

solid as in does not blink off during start up, or stays on when u jump to get code?

 

If its when u jump it it means bad ecu or bad ground.

If its before u turn the key from on to starter its the main relay.

 

It stays solid when i turn the key on (never goes away before startup, ike my p28 does). When i jump it, it will flash the code, then stay solid. Wouldnt my p28 recognize a bad ground or main relay?

I think ive come to the conclusion that my p28 has the wrong chip and/or basemap. And my p75 is junk.

 

i think bad map on chip

when i use to tune cars with chip tuning(Uberdata), if it was a bad map, it would give me a solid CEL. this can be caused from a bad burn, map problems, or static electricity messing up chip usually from touching the prongs on the chip with static electricity problems, the chip is not ruined just the electricity need to be discharged but map has to be uploaded again

 

Yea that must be what happened. I tried my friends chipped p28 today and VTEC works. Finally, for the 1st time, after a year of owning the car.. I would have 2 faulty ecus :/. Atleast now i know for sure what the problem is. Im proceeding to shove this ecu up the ebay seller's a** because he hasnt responded or taken any action to resolve it. Thank god for buyer protection .

Thanks for the replies!!! I appreciate the input for sure.

 

have you tried your 2 ecu's in your friend's car?

 

Naw, they were both bad for sure. The p75 i got off ebay had multiple broken solder points. The p28 thay came with my car tested fine on my engine guy's computer, but just wouldnt engage vtec in my car. I just traded that p28 towards one of his, and got a good working chipped p28 for $75. Now it runs perfect, vtec works fine.