so ive adjusted my valves for the fifth time and the thing runs like crap still on a d16a6 .008 intake and .010 exhaust the clearance always stays consistent everytime i check it but it just sounds way too loose! help! btw this is the first injected overhead cam engine ive ever owned so i guess im a noob

 

Try tightening them up to .007" and .009" and see if the noise goes away. It won't hurt anything.

 

i actually just did that (i had to borrow a different feeler gauge) still not any better. are my valves springs shot? did i burn valves? sorry if i sound like such a rookie guys but ive built small block chevys which is about as complicated as playing shoots and ladders compared these alien hondas, i do love em though!

 

It's possible the noise is not coming from the valves but is something else instead. .007" I and .009" E are the minimum spec so you can try going .001" smaller than that and see if it helps. I wouldn't go much tighter than that though, especially on the exhaust side. You are adjusting these cold right? If that doesn't help I'd suspect the noise is coming from somewhere else.

 

yeah i always adjust em when its cold i might just grab a different head at the boneyard and have a nice valve job done on this one

 

did you get it to top dead center>

 

yeah i start with cylinder 1 a tdc and adjust then rotate the crank 180 degrees and the cam 90 degrees then adjust cylinder 3 valves and so on. i just follow the firing order

 

I have the same problem. But its only when the car is cold in the winter. Once it reaches operating temp, it goes away. I just adjusted my valves yesterday, but its still there. Blah. Its annoying. How to i make noise go away?

 

No, seriously.

 

Do a leakdown test when the car is cold, sounds like burned valves. Is this on a car with an automatic transmission by chance (most commonly happens on automatics) ?

 

Actually, yes it is. It has about 153000 miles, which will increase because it's my dd.

 

Just to be sure you know, valve clearances should be set with the entire motor actually cold, not simply below body or room temp. Make sure the timing belt is in good condition and that the valve timing is correct. You might not be able to set the clearances accurately otherwise.

 

the timing belt seems quite loose how do i adjust the tension?

 

You should replace the tensioner spring. A pulley roughly in the bottom-middle of the belt area is the tensioner pulley. I think it's usually black. You loosen the bolt that holds it on, replace the spring connected to it and it should pick up the slack in the timing belt. Then tighten it back down. The pulley slides forward and back and the spring pulls it in one direction to tighten the belt. If the pulley doesn't move freely back and forth with the spring detached, clean any dirt off you can, epecially behind it, spray a quick shot of WD40 or similar thin oil behind it and move it around until it's moves easily. For testing purposes or if it's necessary to drive the car to the parts store, you can leave the tensioner spring on and press on the pulley to manually tighten the slack, hold it there and tighten it. I usually press gently on the pulley with one finger when tightening it just to make sure the timing belt is tight. Using one finger helps me to avoid making the belt too tight.

 

Clean off any oil that gets on any pulleys or the belt. I should also mention that Honda and some techs would reccomend replacing a timing belt found to be loose. If the belt looks to be in good condition all the way around it's really a judgement call since you're not actually taking it off. When it's tight, make sure the valve timing is correct. Even a slight discrepancy can mean the belt is stretched, jumped a tooth or both.

 

I adjust my valve lash when the engine was completely cold. It hadnt been turned on that day. Ill do the leakdown test. How did my valves get burned? Spark to hot?

 

TTY

 

ttt

 

Actual valve "burning" usually occurs when there's a buildup of crap on the valve or seat. Most of the valves' heat dissipation is through the valve seat. When it doesn't make good contact with the seat, it can get too hot and begin to incinerate, especially at higher rpm. Obviously, in that situation you'd have at least slight compression problems long before destroying valves. People, including myself, are probably concerned about talking to you at length here because it's someone else's thread. Try starting a new one with detailed info about your vehicle and problems.

 

Ok. Will do. Sorry, OP.