I have recently done an Ls/vtec swap in my 89 CRX HF. Everything is in and hooked up. But, when I go to start it, it just keeps turning over without starting.
I have checked the spark and the dizzy wiring, it all checks out. I am using a Chipped P28 ECu with a obd0-obd1 conversion harness. I have tried 2 different chips and another ECU from my friends running car both to no avail.

I know that I have fuel pressure to the rail. It seems as though the Injectors (which all have been checked) are not fireing. I have removed the resistor box and connected the 5 wires from it together and checked all grounds. I don't know what else to check, I am asking for any shot in the dark possibilty that could cause this.

thanks in advance for any help.

-Matt

 

bump for my poor non running CRX

 

*hello* .......anyone?


I Feel so alone.

 

did you check your timing?

 

Is your fuel pump turning on everytime? If it is not turning on everytime and only sometimes then you have a ground loose. Make sure that all your grounds are connected and tight. Check the one on the thermostat housing b/c that is one that a lot of people miss when doing a swap.

 

punps comes one everytime. and I have checked all fuses. The thermo ground has been checked like 15 times. lol

 

Your firing order is right isnt it?

 

ya.

someone told me that even if my dizzy is giving spark it could still be the problem?

 

are your plugs wet?

 

that I have not checked. if they are that means fuel is getteing there but I guess also that they arent getting spark?

 

ok I just went and checked them They were all slightly wet and two of them( the ones in the middle) looked almost brand new, while there other two looked as though they had been firing

 

make sure your firing order is correct. In one of the books it shows it wrong. the number one cyllinder is the lower left if looking from distributor side and then the firing order goes from there. Haynes has it has number one on the lower right. Check that out.

 

I checked that out and it did seem that someone switched my #2 and #1 wires on the head. but after I put them back the only change was less back firing, still no start.

 

Make sure the timing marks are on on the gears. Any chance it could have bent valves. Or if head work was done make sure the valve adjustment is correct. If its too tight the valves will not close.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garcia-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure the timing marks are on on the gears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean by this?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garcia-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Any chance it could have bent valves. Or if head work was done make sure the valve adjustment is correct. If its too tight the valves will not close. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There was no head work done, but I did check the valves clearences and they were fine.

 

Crank pulley mark @ tdc, Cam gear marks lining up with valve cover and up marks up.

 

oh ya, the timing is Dead on.

 

Do a compression test

 

Any check engine lights? Bad map sensor?

 

well I dont know how to check the CEL on my car anymore with the Obd0-Obd1 conversion.

 

The Beast is ALIVE!!! I relized that I was using an LZ dizzy, which apparently has a different firing order than a b-16 or any other v-tec dizzy ??? either way it runs now and Just in case anyone else has this problem.

Obd1 LS distributor Firing Order:

FROM THE DIZZY SIDE OF ENGINE.

[21] |4|3|2|1|
[34]