Tranny gurus...
I bought a tranny from a fellow member. Upon arrival the input shaft didnt spin freely. I tore into the tranny to check out the condition of the internals, everything is ok. But, upon reassembly the input shaft doesn't spin. Yes, all the shims are in place and the lock is positioned correctly. Any ideas?? thanks
It spins freely with the case apart. It spins also with about a 1/4 inch gap in the cases. When I put 10lbs of torque into the bolts (only 4 at the corners) it freezes up.
Ok, so if it is one of the shims which one??
Ok, so if it is one of the shims which one??
There is also a little tab at the top of the shaft, you need to line that up when putting the case back together or it will bind up, took me an entire weekend to figure this out..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brokeHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and the lock is positioned correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep!
I have been looking at the bazilion shims that I can choose. Is the shim for the LSD the same 72mm??
Yep!
I have been looking at the bazilion shims that I can choose. Is the shim for the LSD the same 72mm??
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was the countershaft bearing snap-ring seated correctly when you disassembled the tranny because that lifts the counter shaft a little and helps the gears line up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Opps.. Didnt see that, sorry..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the help though, I spent some time on that as well!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainforest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the countershaft bearing snap-ring seated correctly when you disassembled the tranny because that lifts the counter shaft a little and helps the gears line up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't pull the main or countershaft assemblies out. I believe that the person swapped the outer casings from another tranny. The shim at the end of the main is 1.2mm. That seems very thick. Without having the order every shim possible what is a good way to measure the tolerances needed????
Thanks for all the input!
Thanks for the help though, I spent some time on that as well!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainforest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the countershaft bearing snap-ring seated correctly when you disassembled the tranny because that lifts the counter shaft a little and helps the gears line up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't pull the main or countershaft assemblies out. I believe that the person swapped the outer casings from another tranny. The shim at the end of the main is 1.2mm. That seems very thick. Without having the order every shim possible what is a good way to measure the tolerances needed????
Thanks for all the input!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainforest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was the countershaft bearing snap-ring seated correctly when you disassembled the tranny because that lifts the counter shaft a little and helps the gears line up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this it??

Is this it??
I am going to go out on a limb and venture to say that your snap ring isn't seated on the shaft..
Happened to me and was a b!tch to get on..basically turn the tranny over and "gently tap" it on the ground until it pops into place....
Happened to me and was a b!tch to get on..basically turn the tranny over and "gently tap" it on the ground until it pops into place....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to go out on a limb and venture to say that your snap ring isn't seated on the shaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, got it seated on the countershaft every time!
Yep, got it seated on the countershaft every time!
Pictures speak a thousand words!
Here is the casings with the gap. Both shims have been removed and the lock is clocked to the right p0osition yet the casings don't sit flush!

Here is the alignment of the main and countershaft. They are not lined up????

I am about to quit and just take it in.
Here is the casings with the gap. Both shims have been removed and the lock is clocked to the right p0osition yet the casings don't sit flush!
Here is the alignment of the main and countershaft. They are not lined up????
I am about to quit and just take it in.
Did you take apart any of the shafts? cause if you did maybe one of the syncros is put in backwards and it would cause for the one of the gears not to sit flush, i belive is 3rd gear. Check and see if 3rd gear gots any play.
you wil be happy to know that is how the gears line up when the end cover isint on. When you install the end cover you will need to open up the snap ring located on the end of the end cover then when you are trying to install the case you will need to tap the bellhousing side of the main(input shaft) with a rubber mallet to get the bearing at the end of the countershaft to have the snap ring snap in completlly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostGoneWild »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you take apart any of the shafts? Check and see if 3rd gear gots any play.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, and I will check it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainforest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you install the end cover you will need to open up the snap ring located on the end of the end cover then when you are trying to install the case you will need to tap the bellhousing side of the main(input shaft) with a rubber mallet to get the bearing at the end of the countershaft to have the snap ring snap in completlly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a suspicion that it would pull the countershaft up! Thanks for confirming that.
No, and I will check it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainforest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you install the end cover you will need to open up the snap ring located on the end of the end cover then when you are trying to install the case you will need to tap the bellhousing side of the main(input shaft) with a rubber mallet to get the bearing at the end of the countershaft to have the snap ring snap in completlly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a suspicion that it would pull the countershaft up! Thanks for confirming that.
One thing I did see is that the oil return tray (part #3 in 5th post) is contacting the "oil Chamber" in the clutch-side housing. This is a binding point but not a reason for the gears to bind???
All of the gears should be able to spin freely on their own when a synchro sleeve isn't engaging it.
The bearing on the top of the mainshaft might also be bound.
The bearing on the top of the mainshaft might also be bound.
Yes, when you snap the clip in the countershaft... it raises the countershaft up and the gears lay flush with each other. The pic you showed was how it sits without the tranny fully assembled. It's fine.
However, make sure the ALL bearings in the mainshaft spin freely.
When I blew my diff up, everything spun fine until I put the case on and then it got real tough to spin. Ran it and it made a whirring noise off of the throttle. It was one of the needle bearings (I believe the very top one). It was locked up and broken.
So go ahead and check the smoothness of everything on the mainshaft (and counter for that matter.)
However, make sure the ALL bearings in the mainshaft spin freely.
When I blew my diff up, everything spun fine until I put the case on and then it got real tough to spin. Ran it and it made a whirring noise off of the throttle. It was one of the needle bearings (I believe the very top one). It was locked up and broken.
So go ahead and check the smoothness of everything on the mainshaft (and counter for that matter.)
Everything spins very easily when the casing is off and even when there is the 1/4 inch gap as seen in the pic. It is when I torque down the casing. I can't even turn the main. It binds and binds hard.
Ok check an see if the last bearing on the main shaft is sitting flush, that would be the one that goes in the casing? If that bearimg is not sitting flush with the shaft every thing would spin freely with out the case, but as soon as you try to torque the case it would cause your gears not to spin and bind up. Good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostGoneWild »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok check an see if the last bearing on the main shaft is sitting flush, that would be the one that goes in the casing? If that bearimg is not sitting flush with the shaft every thing would spin freely with out the case, but as soon as you try to torque the case it would cause your gears not to spin and bind up. Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ding Ding Ding! BoostGoneWild FTW.
Haven't had a chance to work with this thing lately. Today I pulled the last bearing and coated it in MTF then slid it into the casing. Put the casing together and placed the snap ring and she sat flush. Mainshaft spun freely! I was gorked with happiness. Thanks to all the fellow H-Ters who posted!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ding Ding Ding! BoostGoneWild FTW.
Haven't had a chance to work with this thing lately. Today I pulled the last bearing and coated it in MTF then slid it into the casing. Put the casing together and placed the snap ring and she sat flush. Mainshaft spun freely! I was gorked with happiness. Thanks to all the fellow H-Ters who posted!


