Hi, I just installed new bearings in a H22. The clearances were plastigauged and were all in Honda spec. After installing all the main caps the crank seams a bit too hard to turn.
Once it is broke lose, it is really easy to turn. I can still get it started by hand but seams too hard to start.
I measured with a torque wrench and it seams it takes about 4lbs to get turning.
How much should it take?
If it was torqued a couple lbs too high would that do it?

 

i'm not sure on the turning torque, but you did use assembly lube and remove the plastigauge after checking clearence right? did your main bores get align honed?did you install arp studs? you should get some resistence from normal friction, but more like inch lbs.

 

yes i used assembly lube
plastigage was cleaned off
and i didnt get an align hone because I didnt use ARP Mains, should I have anyway?

 

it's always a good idea to check for proper main bore alignment, and true bore roundness. any of these can cause to much pressure resulting in the crank being hard to turn. whats the background on the motor? just a good motor rebuild? do you remember the clearences you got? correct model H for H specs used? and whats a couple pounds too high? spec torqued too?

 

all clearances were between .001 and .0015. which from the helms is on the tight side os hondas specs.
The engine is a JDM with no miles on it other than what was put on it japan. In reality it probably didnt need a rebuild at all but i decided to give it new rings and all bearings anyway
By a few pounds too much I mean instead of 54lbs if my torque wrench was of a tad and they were really torqued to 56lbs for instance
I mean I can still start it turning with my hand but its not quite as easy as a B series block I have laying around
thanks for the help

 

with no rods attached the crank should spin freely,unless h's are different. you should get the bores checked by a machine shop if its doing that. also i wouldnt run my bearings that tight if your gonna run it hard,and leave it a little loser on #3

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with no rods attached the crank should spin freely,unless h's are different. you should get the bores checked by a machine shop if its doing that. also i wouldnt run my bearings that tight if your gonna run it hard,and leave it a little loser on #3</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you use a looser clearance on the #3? are you talking about the #3 main bearing, or cyl. 3 rod bearing?

 

main bearing

 

I had a motor like that, took a little effort to get the crank started turning, but once moving it turned freely. That motor lasted about 5 seconds after I fired it up, it ate the bearings. If it doesn't turn freely by hand, then figure out why before you finish assembling it. You could try some looser bearings too, I recently had to get a set of Clevite bearings for a B16 because the ACL bearings that I had were a little on the tight side.

 

MAKE SURE YOU INSTALLED THE MAIN CAPS IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION & ORDER!

I.E. arrows point towards the crank pulley!

 

thanks for the replies. I will double check the main cap direction and if I cant figure it out may have to end up trying some looser bearings