timing on lsvtec need help ASAP
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well i barely got my lsvtec running as you can see in this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1331032 so now i take it to 3 mechanics and they tell me that i did it right and it looks like everything is at top dead center.. they just looked at the cam gears, crank pulley mark, and screwdriver in cylinder 1. so now im confused on why my timing is at 7-8 degrees with the distributor fully advanced. now the options they are giving me is that they can cut the distributor on the part where the bolt goes on the advance side so i can bring it to 16 degrees since everything is supposidly at tdc. also head has not been milled. what should i do? has anyone done this b4? help me please b4 i do something i regret. i need to get a answer b4 wednesday aug 10th 9:00 am eastern time
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ls timing belt.. belt seems pretty tight. im using a b16 distributor and it runs like complete **** right now and head ticks pretty loud so he's also gonna do a valve adjustment. u think there all right?
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well guess what? im spending money for nothing. this is BS cuz nothing is working. he did his **** and it still sounds like diesel and runs like ****. it misses constantly and a check engine light comes on at 6600 rpms everytime and i cant check it cuz everytime i turn off the car and turn it back on the engine light dissapears.. i guess cuz i got uberdata. wth do i do? can anyone on this forum help me?
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i dont kno man. but im thinking about taking the whole timing belt off and reinstalling it even though everything looks tdc. even if it looks tdc could it still be off somehow?
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well guess what? those mechanics didnt do the valve adjustment and thats why the head was loud and losing power. also the cam and crank timing was correct. the distributor i got must of been built incorrectly so i took the ls one and cut the leg off and got it to 16 degrees. it runs okay now but there is a tapping clacking sound on the 1st cylinder and the exhaust putts and sputters at idle.
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well i would say take the timing belt off, line up the cams and the crank and put the timing belt back on.
Then, take out the distributor and take the cap off. Rotate the shaft (where it attaches to the cam) so that the the middle of the rotor points to where the spark plug wire for the #1 cylinder is. Make a mark on the side of the housing (not the cap) to mark where the #1 cylinder terminal is, this will make it easier to set the rotor.
Then put the cap back on and carefully put the distributor back onto the head. This is the method i use and it works good for me, to make sure that the dizzy is set to where it should be. Then adjust the dizzy accordingly while using a timing light.
Hope this helps.
Then, take out the distributor and take the cap off. Rotate the shaft (where it attaches to the cam) so that the the middle of the rotor points to where the spark plug wire for the #1 cylinder is. Make a mark on the side of the housing (not the cap) to mark where the #1 cylinder terminal is, this will make it easier to set the rotor.
Then put the cap back on and carefully put the distributor back onto the head. This is the method i use and it works good for me, to make sure that the dizzy is set to where it should be. Then adjust the dizzy accordingly while using a timing light.
Hope this helps.
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From: Fairfax, VA, United States
yeah we did that also but it still came up short with the other distributor.. but we did get it to 16 with the ls one so i know they built the distributor wrong with the other one. thanks though
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