TIMING/ DISTRIBUTOR PROBLEM!!!!! CEL!!!
This is for '95 Integra; I don't know whether they used different colors any other years? Anyone know? Got a wiring diagram for your P28?
The distributor should get battery voltage on a black/yellow wire. Should be on whenever the key is at 'run' or 'start'. This connects to the coil 'A' terminal & also to the ignitor.
There should be a trigger signal coming from the ECU (yellow/green wire) which connects to the ignitor. This one tells the ignitor to fire the coil.
There's a wire from the ignitor going to the coil 'B' terminal. That's the one that fires the coil.
The ignitor has to have a ground, but it might be thru it's mounting screws.
There's a blue wire from the ignitor. That's a tach signal going to the tachometer & cruise control.
The remaining 6 wires are for the TDC, CKP, & CYP sensors. If they were messed up your injectors wouldn't fire.
Check each of these items & look for something disconnected or ?? If you find something connected to the WRONG place, don't mess with it yet. First find out if maybe it's correct for YOUR setup... (Did I mention that you need a wiring diagram?)
The distributor should get battery voltage on a black/yellow wire. Should be on whenever the key is at 'run' or 'start'. This connects to the coil 'A' terminal & also to the ignitor.
There should be a trigger signal coming from the ECU (yellow/green wire) which connects to the ignitor. This one tells the ignitor to fire the coil.
There's a wire from the ignitor going to the coil 'B' terminal. That's the one that fires the coil.
The ignitor has to have a ground, but it might be thru it's mounting screws.
There's a blue wire from the ignitor. That's a tach signal going to the tachometer & cruise control.
The remaining 6 wires are for the TDC, CKP, & CYP sensors. If they were messed up your injectors wouldn't fire.
Check each of these items & look for something disconnected or ?? If you find something connected to the WRONG place, don't mess with it yet. First find out if maybe it's correct for YOUR setup... (Did I mention that you need a wiring diagram?)
okie dokey.
so all of the distributor wires seem to connect solidly to the others, and i have a signal on the black/yellow wire when the key is to "on". none of the other wires have any signal.
so all of the distributor wires seem to connect solidly to the others, and i have a signal on the black/yellow wire when the key is to "on". none of the other wires have any signal.
okey doke!!!
So i begged this strange fellow accross the hall (my father) to crank it for me, and i found that NONE of the wires pulse (i tried them all) when he cranks it.
Not even the yellow with green stripe'd wire.
help????
So i begged this strange fellow accross the hall (my father) to crank it for me, and i found that NONE of the wires pulse (i tried them all) when he cranks it.
Not even the yellow with green stripe'd wire.
help????
Did you ever get your CEL to work?? If the ECU isn't illuminating the CEL, then perhaps this would be an area to troubleshoot. If the CEL works because you can manually ground the wire and make it light then maybe your ECU is broke.
Before writing off the ECU, check whether that yellow/green trigger wire coming from the ECU is OK. If that wire was broken somewhere, I think it would do the same thing.
EE_Chris or anyone... Is it normal for an ECU to fail like that? It's still firing the injectors, so it must be processing the CYP, CKP, & TDC sensors. I guess I just like to exhaust all possible broken-wiring problems before I buy something as expensive as an ECU.
EE_Chris or anyone... Is it normal for an ECU to fail like that? It's still firing the injectors, so it must be processing the CYP, CKP, & TDC sensors. I guess I just like to exhaust all possible broken-wiring problems before I buy something as expensive as an ECU.
Very true - I've not seen an ECU fire off the injectors without a corresponding spark - I ASSumed that if he was checking for voltages/resistances, then he would have gone ahead and verified wiring integrity too.
I still don't like the fact that the CEL once worked, but now it doesn't.....I don't know if that is indicative of a bigger problem inside the ECU or something as simple as blown fuse.
I still don't like the fact that the CEL once worked, but now it doesn't.....I don't know if that is indicative of a bigger problem inside the ECU or something as simple as blown fuse.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zm_dawg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and then the ignitor.....it was 4cylinder helped me on this problem. Don't you think that if the ignitor was burnt out. That it wouldn't be able to send a signal on the yel/grn wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>That yellow/green wire is the ECU sending a signal TO the ignitor...
haha jim, i wanna thank you so much for stickin around to help me out with this problem i really appreciate it. I actually have a spare ecu, and i swapped that out, and no luck. so i'll check the yellow/green wire. thats the one that goes from the ecu to the ignitor?
edit: might even hafta paypal you a few bucks later!!!!
Modified by WrongWD at 2:27 AM 10/26/2004
edit: might even hafta paypal you a few bucks later!!!!
Modified by WrongWD at 2:27 AM 10/26/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WrongWD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump......cant figure out how the ecu connects to the cel...</TD></TR></TABLE>On my '95 Integra, the lamp is always powered when the ignition is on. The ground side of the lamp is connected to pin A13 of the ECU; it closes the ground side of the circuit when it wants to turn on the lamp.
Did you check if the bulb is burned out?
Did you check if the bulb is burned out?
OK try this with the ignitor... Disconnect that yellow/green wire at the distributor, try cranking & check for a signal on the ECU side of the wire. You did that before with the wire connected, right?
If the ignitor has created a dead short to ground on that wire, that would have prevented you from seeing the signal from the ECU. EE_Chris, does that make sense? Do ignitors fail that way?
If the ignitor has created a dead short to ground on that wire, that would have prevented you from seeing the signal from the ECU. EE_Chris, does that make sense? Do ignitors fail that way?
I've not heard of an igniter failing in that manner, but anything is possible.
Good suggestion on depinning the Yel/Grn wire from the distributor and checking to see if it pulses while cranking.
On that same suggestion, what if he lined up the rotor with one of the distributor cap contacts, depinned the Yel/Grn wire from the ECU and then tried to manually create a spark??
Good suggestion on depinning the Yel/Grn wire from the distributor and checking to see if it pulses while cranking.
On that same suggestion, what if he lined up the rotor with one of the distributor cap contacts, depinned the Yel/Grn wire from the ECU and then tried to manually create a spark??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... what if he lined up the rotor with one of the distributor cap contacts, depinned the Yel/Grn wire from the ECU and then tried to manually create a spark??</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah... How do you make a trigger signal? Battery voltage & then open? Or do you momentarily short to ground?
Battery voltage, then open, would be my guess.
The ignitor needs a +12v signal in order to saturate the coil - ECU pulls it to ground in order for the coil to discharge - but simply lifting the wire off of the +12v signal is 'ground' enough, or should be.
The ignitor needs a +12v signal in order to saturate the coil - ECU pulls it to ground in order for the coil to discharge - but simply lifting the wire off of the +12v signal is 'ground' enough, or should be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ignitor needs a +12v signal in order to saturate the coil - ECU pulls it to ground in order for the coil to discharge - but simply lifting the wire off of the +12v signal is 'ground' enough, or should be.</TD></TR></TABLE>The coil gets it's saturation current from it's 'A' terminal. It's not much different than the old days with breaker points. Primary coil is grounded from it's 'B' terminal thru the ignitor. To fire the coil, the ignitor has to OPEN the 'B' terminal of the coil.
The ignitor also gets battery power full-time, from the black/yellow wire.
The ignitor needs a signal, it doesn't need power from the ECU.
The ignitor also gets battery power full-time, from the black/yellow wire.
The ignitor needs a signal, it doesn't need power from the ECU.


