so i put the belt on then i tighten it down with the tensioner,then do i turn the crank counterclockwise to tighten it more or what do i do?

 

cmon doods this isnt complicated,is it?hehe,jus let me know so i can finish work,please

 

put the belt on, while everything's on TDC, tighten the tensioner, turn the crank so the cams advance like 3 teeth, then loosen the tensioner so it picks up the slack, then retighten. Then turn the crank to TDC to verify that the cams are lined up too. Hope that helps!

 

thanks bro,do i turn the crank counterclockwise?

 

Yep...it'll make sense when you see how much slack it picks up

 

cool,right on dood.jus wanna make sure on what to do..i got a kinda off topic question,when i take off the head to change the head gasket will there be any other seals,orings,etc.that i should change?

 

Just the head gasket should be fine

 

ok,i got another question are those self locking exhaust manifold bolts re-usable?

 

yeah, just be very careful when removing and torquing, they strip easy.

 

thanks for the info,ill be back with more questions as i continue working..

 

Oh yeah, and when you change the headgasket, you might want to change all the top end seals, if you're not planning on removing the head again and this is replacing the headgasket as a regular matienance, you might want to just buy a top-end gasket kit. it's cheaper to buy it that way, it takes care of your valve cover seals, head gasket, intake, exhaust, cam seals, etc.

 

Good advise. If you don't go that route, and you remove the exaust manifold, you'll need to replace that gasket. Same goes for the intake manifold, although it's not necessary to remove it. Rubber gaskets can often be reused if they are still in good condition...any paper/metal/etc gaskets need to be replaced each time (although sometimes they can be reused successfully, it's not worth the risk of extra labor and finding leaks for the cost of a new gasket)