temp sender voltage HELP ME please
did some searching and didn't come up with much of anything....
Does anybody know what the OEM temp sensor voltage should be?
I'm hooking up my voltmeter to my temp sensor and I get anywhere from 10 volts when the engine is kinda cold down to 6.7 volts, and then I kick on my fan and it'll climb back up to 10.2 volts etc...
Just wondering what temperature these volts correspond to?
My factory temperature gauge has gone to hell, and my new one that I bought hasn't arrived in the mail (damn holiday shipping), so I don't know what temp my car is running at, however I need to take a trip tomorrow morning to get home for xmas.
If it's important, I have a jdm obd1 b16.
thanks for your help guys.. please post any info you might have
Does anybody know what the OEM temp sensor voltage should be?
I'm hooking up my voltmeter to my temp sensor and I get anywhere from 10 volts when the engine is kinda cold down to 6.7 volts, and then I kick on my fan and it'll climb back up to 10.2 volts etc...
Just wondering what temperature these volts correspond to?
My factory temperature gauge has gone to hell, and my new one that I bought hasn't arrived in the mail (damn holiday shipping), so I don't know what temp my car is running at, however I need to take a trip tomorrow morning to get home for xmas.
If it's important, I have a jdm obd1 b16.
thanks for your help guys.. please post any info you might have
Those readings sound a little jacked up....
0*F = 4.70V
30* = 4.10
60* = 3.35
90* = 2.50
120* = 1.74
150* = 1.15
180* = .74
You can also compare the resistance (and voltage) between the ECT and IAT - they should be about the same on a completely cold engine.
0*F = 4.70V
30* = 4.10
60* = 3.35
90* = 2.50
120* = 1.74
150* = 1.15
180* = .74
You can also compare the resistance (and voltage) between the ECT and IAT - they should be about the same on a completely cold engine.
also just tested another ls swapped ek coupe, and it was at 6.17 when completely warm.. and then you kick the fan on and the number goes up. I'm not sure if our voltages are being read from the same source as those which you stated are... but either way I'm pretty sure that what I am getting is what i need to know.
Now I get to put the voltmeter on my dash and watch it for the entire trip down, if it goes below 6 I will flip on my fan.
ghetto I know, but it's my only choice right now
Now I get to put the voltmeter on my dash and watch it for the entire trip down, if it goes below 6 I will flip on my fan.
ghetto I know, but it's my only choice right now
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Oh...well **** bro - my fault then. I gave you values for the actual ECT not what controls the temp gauge in the cluster - and now that I re-read your title and post, that is what you were originally asking for.
So to answer your original Q: I dunno.
But it seems like you've got your needed info, yeah? If not, I'll try and measure mine for ya'.
So to answer your original Q: I dunno.
But it seems like you've got your needed info, yeah? If not, I'll try and measure mine for ya'.
well I got everything taken care of, but I thought I would let everyone know the answer to this question for future reference.
completely cold 11.5 volts
warms up to about 6.3 volts max during city driving
cruising on the freeway for 300 miles it evens out at a constant 7.10-7.15 volts solid, I'm sure it's a little different for each engine.
When the blinkers are on for some reason it would give me a jumpy reading, but I'm guessing that was because I tapped into the sensor wire on the back of the cluster, near the blinker wiring... probably just interference
If your gauge breaks, just hook up a voltmeter to this wire and monitor it. Works exactly like your factory gauge, just not as pretty
completely cold 11.5 volts
warms up to about 6.3 volts max during city driving
cruising on the freeway for 300 miles it evens out at a constant 7.10-7.15 volts solid, I'm sure it's a little different for each engine.
When the blinkers are on for some reason it would give me a jumpy reading, but I'm guessing that was because I tapped into the sensor wire on the back of the cluster, near the blinker wiring... probably just interference
If your gauge breaks, just hook up a voltmeter to this wire and monitor it. Works exactly like your factory gauge, just not as pretty
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