I've been looking into stroker kits for B-series motors recently and was trying to find out how reliable they are. I've got a decked and sleeved GS-R bare block sitting in my garage and I'm considering stroking it when the thing finally gets put together. The motor is going to be n/a, so no worries about boost. I've heard everything from stroked motors are solid to the thing will crack in half as soon as you rev it up. I won't be building the new engine any time soon, I was just sorta curious.

 

If I was in your position, I would consider the rod ratio availability. The reason for strokers is torque from displacement right? There is more torque benefit from bore than stroke. So why not bore it, move your ring pack up on your all motor pistons and use a longer rod. Or if you can find a shorter stroke and use a longer rod, bore will still provide power but the shorter stroke will make it high end, to match your cams. An 84mm bore 1.7 gsr is 1804cc. Smaller than an ls but more revable, and with a bigger bore.

 

that's not true. you get torque from stroke. in physics: Torque = r X F where r = distance to pivot point and F = force.

 

Alot of the benefit of stroke changing the torque or torque curve is its direct effect on piston speed and the dispersial of the force.

 

Don't forget rod angle!

As for reliability... Forget about it. Sp(o)(o)n strokes B16s out to what...? 2.0L... 2.2L...? Something like that. Anyway, they're 10K mile motors because of piston side loads and verious other things.

If you want power, turbo. My turbo setup gives me full boost (9 PSI) by 2200 RPM and hauls *** to redline. Yeah, there's some lag, but who the hell races below 2200 RPM? I don't. Do you?

 

you are kidding right? lol. *hoping he's kidding*

 

I wouldn't over bore too much. If you increase the piston size, you are adding weight that the engine has to sling around. Less weight is a faster reving engine. A complete stroker kit will have taken everything into consideration including those rod angles. Yes, they will last for a long time. That spoon engine lasting 10K sounds like a race motor and 10K for a race motor is a long life. I personally like crowers kit.

 

The block is bored to 85mm. When it goes together I'll either put a balanced LS crank (2.0L), or stroker (~2.16L). I was just curious about the stroker motors because they seem so rare. Since the overbored block is bare, and the B16 rotating assymbly is incompatable, I have to get a crank, rods, and pistons which is similar in price to most of the stroker kits that don't use billet cranks. The final motor will be naturally aspirated, with the ported head from my current engine and very little else.
I decided not to turbocharge when I did the swap. I was either going to use a turbo SOHC or an all motor twincam. I only want ~200hp and a decent amount of torque so turbo DOHC is overkill. Plus the car is going to be a daily driver for four more years. DOHC motors are expensive to replace if you pop one on boost.

 

You should try replacing rotary engines that pop from too much boost, now that is expensive.

 

Kidding about what?

 

about the fact that you reach full boost by 2200 rpm. what kind of turbo does that? .0001 a/r???

 

Piston Weight vs Combustion Dispersion? I'll pick the larger bore.

 

What is Combustion Dispertion?

 

My g/f's D16z6 Del Sol hits full boost at around 2000rpm. SHes running a td04 @6psi. The only way you get major lag is running somehting like a t4...

 

Stroker motors can work great as long as everything is considered during build up. Tork is achieved earlier in the rev band allowing the engine to do the same amount of work with less RPM. This is based on Physics. I have built several strokers with great succes. My personal "family car" has a stroked H22a with a [sarcastic] horrible [/sarcastic] rod ratio of 1.44. No problems to date. Yes, it is daily driven and raced at the track regularly.

 

It's an IHI RHB5 VJ14 that came out of a Mazda 323 GTX. It has a compressor AR of .50. I'm not a drag queen, so I'm not too concerned with top end. I also don't give a **** about street racing because it's gay. I autocross and ice race and do a tiny bit of road racing. When I went about building my turbo system, I looked at what performance I wanted- low lag, low boost, reliable, and daily driveable. My turbo system meets all those requrements. If I punch it above 3000 RPM, I have almost instantaneous boost. The car never overheats, it's easy to drive in the twisties as well as stop and go traffic because of low lag, and the best part is I did it all for $440. Sure, I'm only putting down 165- 175 HP, but for the cost of a set of headers, that's not too bad, eh?

Big turbos aren't for everyone.