Sputtering when get hot, Coil Maybe?
1994 OBD1 GSR Engine:
*Car runs fine for 5-10 minutes but when it gets hot it starts sputtering.
*I know its not an engine coolant temp sensor because vtec works fine.
*I'm thinking that its probably a coil and when it get hots it starts to break down and misfire.
*It doesn't run good until it cools completely down for several hours then run fine again for 5-10 minutes
Jason
*Car runs fine for 5-10 minutes but when it gets hot it starts sputtering.
*I know its not an engine coolant temp sensor because vtec works fine.
*I'm thinking that its probably a coil and when it get hots it starts to break down and misfire.
*It doesn't run good until it cools completely down for several hours then run fine again for 5-10 minutes
Jason
possible ionization in the dizzy, basically an environment in the dizzy cap that leads to arcing between posts. try a new cap and rotor, If your coil is toast go external and buy an MSD blaster for 20bucks, or replace off this board, everyone with an MSD has removed their stock coil.
dont know where your located but maybe gas vapour lock, not too common with acura though.
dont know where your located but maybe gas vapour lock, not too common with acura though.
Well if it were a misfire due to bad cap and or rotor i would think it would misfire all the time no matter if its hot or cold.
im haveing the same problem, was thinking maybe injectors, but it would do it all the time. so my next guess was going to buy a blaster coil and seeing if that takes care of it. if not... back to the drawing board.
I'm going to try to swap the dizzy out with another obd 1 integra first.
Another car im working on only does it when its cold, not completely cold but if it sits for 5-10 minutes it runs very rich and o2 sensor reading are very high like 1.3 volts on the scan tool and sputters from being so rich. Once it warms up it runs perfect and no check engine light either.
Another car im working on only does it when its cold, not completely cold but if it sits for 5-10 minutes it runs very rich and o2 sensor reading are very high like 1.3 volts on the scan tool and sputters from being so rich. Once it warms up it runs perfect and no check engine light either.
how can the scan tool be reading 1.3v from O2 sensor. I'm not sure that's possible as the O2 sensor only has a range of 0mv to 999mv (.000v-.999v) best thing to do is to monitor short term and long term fuel trims and don't rely on base O2 sensor cross counts as much. the fuel trim numbers will tell you quite a bit more in regards to engine running rich or lean as monitored by ECU.
As for your car symptom, are you sure that you don't happen to be losing fuel pressure? Also, have you tried testing coil or ignitor when at temp to make sure signal isn't breaking down or lost? Have you tried performing cylinder balance test to see if it is just cylinder specific or happens to broad acrossed all cylinders?
Just a couple of things I would suggest checking out...
As for your car symptom, are you sure that you don't happen to be losing fuel pressure? Also, have you tried testing coil or ignitor when at temp to make sure signal isn't breaking down or lost? Have you tried performing cylinder balance test to see if it is just cylinder specific or happens to broad acrossed all cylinders?
Just a couple of things I would suggest checking out...
I thought it was onlt 1vlolt max on o2 sensors but hondas go upto 1.275 to be exact. I drove the car home today and it does it when its hot also under load only. It might be something stupid like a rotor and cap. If the car was running at 1.275 i would think the back bumper on a white car would be black but its not! Maybe its not really rich and I bought a bad o2 sensor and really a lean misfire.
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Having an O2 output 1.275v is suspect to me....it feels like there is a bias being applied to it.
Have you pulled the plugs/O2 sensor to check them?
Have you pulled the plugs/O2 sensor to check them?
This sounds stupid but i was looking to far into the system. The reason why it ws running rich was because it was misfiring slightly but could only be felt under load. O2 sensor was going between .4V-1.1V when warm and 1.275 when cold start. All i did was cap,rotor,wires and fells good now. I never drove the car when it was a complete cold start cycle. I always drove it after the engine,dissy,wires were hot. I thouggh that if it were bad cap rotor wires it would idle bad all the time and run bad all the time. But it idles fine and only when under heavy load was a problem.
I know this is an old thread but did you ever figure out the problem? Seems like the ignition coil to me just because of the temperature factor. If it was the distributer, it should run bad no matter what the temperature of the coolant and engine may be.
Actually mine ended up being plug wires and it wasnt when cold. THe guy was driving the car to my work so it was already warmed up and all the components were warm already. Well one day i cold started it and it ran perfect until 15 minuted when it was very hot. I tried plug wires first and it fixed it. The plug wires were warming up and starting to break down causing a misfire. It did it the worst if it sat for 5 minuted and then started again. It caused the o2 sensors to read over 1.0 volts since the engine wasnt firing correctly and causing unburned fuel to make the misfire.
JAson
JAson
Thanks, that was part of the problem along with plugs with over twice the desired gap, courtesy of the person I just bought the car from.
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TurboPrelude
Acura Integra
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Oct 20, 2001 06:25 PM




