sleeving NA b20vtec, really necessary???
Hi everyone,
Im new here so please excuse my lack of knowledge!!
Im from the UK and own a 91 Crx VT. Im planning on doing a b20vtec conversion using a ready built b20 block (f20b pistons, blockguard, ITR oil pump and inserted oil squirters), b16a1 head with ITR cams, valvesprings. TB, inlet manifold and exhaust manifold etc.
The above spec for the block is what i have been told is necessary by the supplier, they say they have had no bad experience with the standard sleeves in the blocks they provide. However, i am aware many of you have done this conversion in the US and i have not read anything good about block guards or the reliability of these standard sleeves.
I would like to have the block sleeved but noone in the UK seems to be able to do it well (i may be wrong, sorry if i am!) and i dont think i can realy afford to have it shipped to the US, work done etc, etc.
What i am asking is, considering i am looking for around 220bhp NA and keeping the stock rev limit of 8200rpm is it realy necessary to have the block sleeved?
I have done a search.
Thanks for your time,
Stu
Im new here so please excuse my lack of knowledge!!
Im from the UK and own a 91 Crx VT. Im planning on doing a b20vtec conversion using a ready built b20 block (f20b pistons, blockguard, ITR oil pump and inserted oil squirters), b16a1 head with ITR cams, valvesprings. TB, inlet manifold and exhaust manifold etc.
The above spec for the block is what i have been told is necessary by the supplier, they say they have had no bad experience with the standard sleeves in the blocks they provide. However, i am aware many of you have done this conversion in the US and i have not read anything good about block guards or the reliability of these standard sleeves.
I would like to have the block sleeved but noone in the UK seems to be able to do it well (i may be wrong, sorry if i am!) and i dont think i can realy afford to have it shipped to the US, work done etc, etc.
What i am asking is, considering i am looking for around 220bhp NA and keeping the stock rev limit of 8200rpm is it realy necessary to have the block sleeved?
I have done a search.
Thanks for your time,
Stu
The stock sleeves should be able to handle your power goals. Just please be sure to have the internals balanced, use pistons with proper valve reliefs, use ARP rod bolts, and use a GSR water pump when you put it together.
Thanks mate
Im getting very mixed views, some people tell me i must sleeve it, others not so. It seems some people have trouble with the sleeves and others do not.
Perhaps i should just find out for myself!
Do you know anyone who can supply a ready sleeved b20 block and at what cost?
Thanks
stu
Im getting very mixed views, some people tell me i must sleeve it, others not so. It seems some people have trouble with the sleeves and others do not.
Perhaps i should just find out for myself!
Do you know anyone who can supply a ready sleeved b20 block and at what cost?
Thanks
stu
b18a block: I got it for about $200 with block/crank/mains
Sleeves: $950 if I remember right+shipping
girdle: $200
Bearings: about $100
AEBS main studs: $120
additional machine work for girdle: about $150
Micropolish crank: $40
Is the above block suitable? Will it net as much power AND TORQUE as a b20 block?
Thanks
Sleeves: $950 if I remember right+shipping
girdle: $200
Bearings: about $100
AEBS main studs: $120
additional machine work for girdle: about $150
Micropolish crank: $40
Is the above block suitable? Will it net as much power AND TORQUE as a b20 block?
Thanks
The b18a won't net as much power as the b20 because it has a smaller bore 81mm vs. 84mm. I believe Darton sells sleeved blocks, I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap to ship to UK though. I'm running b20vtec w/ 12.5 compression pistons, 84.5mm bore, type r block girdle, everything is balanced, but I'm not sleeving it. Just make sure to get it tuned right and the sooner the better. If you run lean it'll detonate and can cause the sleeves to fracture.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blue00vtecsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder also but I heard the sleeves in the B 20 were the weakest link ??</TD></TR></TABLE>
With an all motor CRVTEC, I'd worry more about the rod bolts than the sleeves.
With an all motor CRVTEC, I'd worry more about the rod bolts than the sleeves.
i dont know why everyone is so scared of the b20 sleeves..they are not as strong as b-series, but still.....
if you take care of the engine it will take care of you.
If your so worried look into posting the block
if you take care of the engine it will take care of you.
If your so worried look into posting the block
OEM LS/B20 rodbolts have a notorious history of failure when revved past about 7500 rpms. A lot of this is due to the lack of balance in the LS/B20 motors, but you also have to consider the fact that Honda never meant for these motors to rev that high. Proper engine balancing and aftermarket rod bolts will greatly increase the potential lifespan of the shortblock and are steps that honestly should be taken in every engine build.
So how about this block?
We sell complete assembled and machined B20 blocks so that it strong and reliable at high revs
Heres an example of a spec we sell for the B20B , naturally aspirated
Spec
Brand new or used
Block guard
F20B, pistons with, modified valve pockets
Stock rods, good enough, (balanced assy)
This engine has a well balanced crank assembly, it revs smoothly to 9000
rpm.
Crank B20B, blueprinted bearings (balanced assy)
can handle abuse...Considering the CRV is not a Vtec.
Revs to 9000rpm (race only), peak power at 8000 rpm
The block have oil squirters inserted to spray oil on the pistons,
something the CRV does not have originally.(Expensive machining process) The
oil pump is also Type R for better lubrication.....
£1657
Bit pricey???
We sell complete assembled and machined B20 blocks so that it strong and reliable at high revs
Heres an example of a spec we sell for the B20B , naturally aspirated
Spec
Brand new or used
Block guard
F20B, pistons with, modified valve pockets
Stock rods, good enough, (balanced assy)
This engine has a well balanced crank assembly, it revs smoothly to 9000
rpm.
Crank B20B, blueprinted bearings (balanced assy)
can handle abuse...Considering the CRV is not a Vtec.
Revs to 9000rpm (race only), peak power at 8000 rpm
The block have oil squirters inserted to spray oil on the pistons,
something the CRV does not have originally.(Expensive machining process) The
oil pump is also Type R for better lubrication.....
£1657
Bit pricey???
I have a sleeve b18b with ductile iron sleeve bored to 2.0l. the sleeves gives it a stronger reinforcment. The sleeves will let you boost higher or use higher compression without too much worry about cracking the sleeves. But with your goal the b20 sleeves should be fine if you tune the car and don't run lean or overheat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know why everyone is so scared of the b20 sleeves..they are not as strong as b-series, but still.....
if you take care of the engine it will take care of you.
If your so worried look into posting the block</TD></TR></TABLE>
a b20 is a b-series.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suckawillis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sleeves are nice but not needed. rod bolts are very important! b20 and ls ones stretch if your revving to 8+. you must replace them!</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you take care of the engine it will take care of you.
If your so worried look into posting the block</TD></TR></TABLE>
a b20 is a b-series.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suckawillis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sleeves are nice but not needed. rod bolts are very important! b20 and ls ones stretch if your revving to 8+. you must replace them!</TD></TR></TABLE>
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