Block Gaurds?
04-07-2005, 09:41 AM
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Block Gaurds?
My freind has a B20 with aftermarket rods and pistons but he still has stock sleeves so he put a block gaurd in to safegaurd the block a little. Thing is... He was only running 11psi and the sleeves split. When he installed the block gaurd he did so by hand. I hear that you only supposed to have this pressed in by a press. is that right? I have a B18 with a 81.5mm bore and I was thinking about getting one. What are good brand names? Is it a bad idea to put a block gaurd in my car?
04-07-2005, 10:04 AM
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Per my engine builder (I agree with the theory and I've run b/g's in 2 of my engines so far):
A block guard should not be 'pressed in'. A B/G should slip right into place with minimal force and have no unevenly spaced gaps. If it needs to be tapped in with any tools, it is a sign that you need to file down certain areas in order for it to slip in.
He recommends it be welded in, but if that option is not available, it must slip in easily. The reasoning was the expansion of the metals will aid in the support and also since the two metals (B/G and the block) are of slightly different expansion rates, FORCING in a B/G will increase the possiblity of sleeve warpage or movement.
Makes sense to me....
A block guard should not be 'pressed in'. A B/G should slip right into place with minimal force and have no unevenly spaced gaps. If it needs to be tapped in with any tools, it is a sign that you need to file down certain areas in order for it to slip in.
He recommends it be welded in, but if that option is not available, it must slip in easily. The reasoning was the expansion of the metals will aid in the support and also since the two metals (B/G and the block) are of slightly different expansion rates, FORCING in a B/G will increase the possiblity of sleeve warpage or movement.
Makes sense to me....
04-07-2005, 10:17 AM
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Re: (X2BOARD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X2BOARD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Per my engine builder (I agree with the theory and I've run b/g's in 2 of my engines so far):
A block guard should not be 'pressed in'. A B/G should slip right into place with minimal force and have no unevenly spaced gaps. If it needs to be tapped in with any tools, it is a sign that you need to file down certain areas in order for it to slip in.
He recommends it be welded in, but if that option is not available, it must slip in easily. The reasoning was the expansion of the metals will aid in the support and also since the two metals (B/G and the block) are of slightly different expansion rates, FORCING in a B/G will increase the possiblity of sleeve warpage or movement.
Makes sense to me....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well put.
Thats the problem with a lot of block guards; people think "oh cool $100 for insurance" In reality if you dont get the bg installed correctly, your actually weakening your sleeves...
bg's work if installed properly.
A block guard should not be 'pressed in'. A B/G should slip right into place with minimal force and have no unevenly spaced gaps. If it needs to be tapped in with any tools, it is a sign that you need to file down certain areas in order for it to slip in.
He recommends it be welded in, but if that option is not available, it must slip in easily. The reasoning was the expansion of the metals will aid in the support and also since the two metals (B/G and the block) are of slightly different expansion rates, FORCING in a B/G will increase the possiblity of sleeve warpage or movement.
Makes sense to me....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well put.
Thats the problem with a lot of block guards; people think "oh cool $100 for insurance" In reality if you dont get the bg installed correctly, your actually weakening your sleeves...
bg's work if installed properly.
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