I know they are "Race Only" but has anyone ran these on the street? Hows the idle? Thanks.

Edit: idle spelling. Damn this post is back from the dead.


Modified by Unsung EM1 at 12:06 AM 5/13/2003

 

idle's normal and runs fine............when vtec kicks in it rippssssssssssssss

 

Sorry to bring this thread up from the dead but just curious as to u being the passenger seat of the car or driven it? And are you saying this cause it's stage 3 cams or you have experience?

 

Skunk 2 stage 3 suffer from low midrange but are sufficient for for high end and do you really drive you car at 8500rpm all the time .... ask yourself that queastion ...

 

you only what to go stage 3's if you car motor is highly modified. your car won't run right w/ those cams and some bolt ons. You probably want to go w/ stage 2's or jun 3's.

 

Stage 3 on street = very very bad Idea.

search and you will find

 

our cars suffer in the low to midrange when the intake valve closing spec is much later on larger cams. therefore, cylinder pressures need to be raised once again to make the car run optimally on the larger lobes. this can be done with a combination of full ECU tuning and raised compression.

also depending on how you drive... and how the car is tuned you should choose your cam IMO.

if your car is to be used on the street and drag/race occasionally, simply a large cam is a waste of money. building a more efficient machine is more required then.
in mechanical engineering or building any machine, it is made especially hondas are made to do a specific thing very well for a long period of time.

My dad'd stock 95 GSR is very strong with 160K+ miles because how he drives and maintains it. However, once you start modifying the motor simply dropping a cam is not the best way of approaching things.

to run 3s on the street my suggestion would be:

B16/18C1,5

Toda valvesprings, stock retainers set installed height to proper spec
ITR Lost motion devices
stock like adjustable cam gear like spoon/jun
upgraded timing belt, new belt tensioner, spring, water pump
for extra saftey valve for dual purpose use: do not mill head more than
what it would be for resurfacing only. leave stock. raise compression to
11:0-12:0 with the appropriate piston.
it would be a good idea to run the ITR intake valves for less unsprung weight
and more accurate valve timing.
run 1.0-1.1mm gap on your 6-7 heat range NGK plugs
run timing between 16-18BTDC.
3s require a header...
4-2-1 2.5" collector would be best for the street... although expensive to regain
early RPM TQ. (under 6K)
if you will be operating the car in the 8-9500rpm range, a baffled oil pan, pressure and temp guages should be installed as well as a billet oil pump gear in a pump housing reworked for maximum flow under load. a properly lubed machine will produce more reliable power.
you will also need a quality radiator and a thermostat that can control the temps more readily under higher compression.
hondata or equivalent tuning with handles on the whole map will be the best way to go.
bolstering the bottom end with appropriate fasteners for the bearings, rods and caps... as well as professional grade head studs should be used. researching of a gasket using stock thickness or more that can handle the extra pressure should be done while maintaining your target compression ratio.
headwork should be done to maximize power gains, as well as increase efficiency.
efforts to reduce reversion/preignition under higher rpm/compression should be taken.
the proper intake manifold/throttle body should be used or fabricated for optimal flow through the motor to the exhaust. 65mm seems reasonable.
a clutch to hold the power should be installed:
dual diaphragm plate with kevlar disk seems good for 150-170ftlbs of tq. as well as offering splendid grab...8-10lb flywheel would be ideal with a JDM final gear as well.

this is just how I would approach it... there are alot of things one could or couldnt do. personally I want every ounce of performance and reliability I can get... so I am more apt to run smaller cams, do everything else so I can run the cams run the higher revs later...

 

go ahead if you like taking apart your valvatrain every other day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SARS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go ahead if you like taking apart your valvatrain every other day</TD></TR></TABLE>

And why, pray tell, would that be necessary?

 

if you understand the tolerances of the machine you are modifying and are truly comfortable with the limits you are running... and operate it within those limits it will be fine...

 

i run stage 3's in my car and drive it every day. it idles fine(like stock) with my b20 and when i had my b16. the b16 was on a stock ecu also. thats with i/h/e. and i didn't lose botom or mid range like every one says you will, it took almost a 1/2 second off my time, but i have a light car and don't mind reving to 9.5k. now with individual throttle bodies it still idles fine and runs fine for my daily driver, still with just a reprogramed pm6 ecu.

but just because they run good for me dosn't meen they'll run good for you, so don't take my word for it. risk it if you want, i'm happy

 

id be curious to see your dyno plots.

 

once again, just because it says "race" doesn't mean it's going to be the best. also, if you're going to run these on the street, did you even think about emmissions?

to me, the benefits don't out weigh the 'cost'.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xJDM88EF9x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to bring this thread up from the dead but just curious as to u being the passenger seat of the car or driven it? And are you saying this cause it's stage 3 cams or you have experience?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I speak from personal experience, I've been running stage 3's for like almost a year now. DAILY DRIVEN............ Mid-Range Power is there and Low-end power isn't that bad feels like stock........

btw: I tired out the skunk stage3's in my friend's jdm gsr motor STOCK motor with all bolt-ons and smsp headers it made 197whp and 137tq. Not bad for a stock motor with big cams like skunk stage 3's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorMadness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
btw: I tired out the skunk stage3's in my friend's jdm gsr motor STOCK motor with all bolt-ons and smsp headers it made 197whp and 137tq. Not bad for a stock motor with big cams like skunk stage 3's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very interesting... I've been holding off on big cams until my bottom end is done... but maybe I don't need to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alex_b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once again, just because it says "race" doesn't mean it's going to be the best. also, if you're going to run these on the street, did you even think about emmissions?

to me, the benefits don't out weigh the 'cost'. </TD></TR></TABLE>

we dont have emmissions where i'm from.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorMadness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I speak from personal experience, I've been running stage 3's for like almost a year now. DAILY DRIVEN............ Mid-Range Power is there and Low-end power isn't that bad feels like stock........

btw: I tired out the skunk stage3's in my friend's jdm gsr motor STOCK motor with all bolt-ons and smsp headers it made 197whp and 137tq. Not bad for a stock motor with big cams like skunk stage 3's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you have to replace the valve guides with the stage 3's ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRuST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you have to replace the valve guides with the stage 3's ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would youhave to do that?

 

def go w/ springs and retainers...guide imho have jack **** to do w/ cams, all they are there to do is hold the valve!

 

one of my friends ran 3s on street for awhile then switched to 2s because he hated the lowend on the 3s..