Relocating battery to my trunk, was wondering if I could run a 4g wire from the positive(+) terminal to a distribution block which will allow 2 smaller wires to go to my starter and alternator.. I'm not exactly sure if that will cause my alternator to keep my starter running, or if there's a relay or something..

Any input?

 

Are you just wanting to move the battery, or do you want to change out the distribution. I moved the battery and kept a false battery terminal. I put the hot lead to the false positive terminal and left the other wiring intact. Ground is back at the battery to frame. I could go back to original battery location very quickly. and then remove the long hot lead, or not, just disconnect.

 

i'm just wanting to move it.. so basically you ran 1 wire from the battery to where the battery used to be, and connected everything to that? you use a remote terminal or something like that?

i'm sort of just worried about starter/alternator interference.. maybe it's impossible though :p

 

I moved the battery, made the ground at the battery to the frame, so the frame is ground. I connected the battery + to a dummy terminal mounted on an insolated block, old OEM location, and connected the OEM cable to that. The electrical system still sees the battery. No cutting or rewiring. As long as wire is sized for distance and connections are good, no problem. I have the PC680 behind and under my passenger seat, for 3 years.

 

Ground the relocated batt. as close to the batt. as you practically can, it should be grounded to the floorpan of the car, seat belt and seat blots work very well.

Run your 4ga from the batt. pos.(+) to the batt. terminal on the starter...

Upper left of pic.

Remove the one that is there, [Pos.(+) batt. cable] along with the other end running to the engine bay fuse box.

Make another cable, it can be the same gauge as the one that went to the fuse box from the batt., run that cable from the starter motor, same place the 4ga is connected, to the engine bay fuse box, [where you disconnected the batt. cable from].

A 150A ANL fuse should be installed on the 4ga as close to batt. pos.(+) post a possible.
Use the correct size, [for cable gauge and stud size] ring terminals on all cable ends, ring terminals should be crimped and soldered to the cabled.

You can also get rid of the batt. neg.(-) cable, the part between the batt. and the chassis, the chassis to engine part must stay, if it is a 1 piece cable, either cut it just before the chassis terminal, or remove the whole thing and make a new one out of 4ga to run from the chassis to the engine.

The above uses the least possible number of connections, the less of those the better, it also means you do not need to go and spend money in a splitter/distribution block that will only add connections and is not needed. 94

 

 

Mine is pretty simple. Battery to ground, the seat slider to the frame, only a few inches. Battery positive goes to my dummy terminal which makes the connect to the stock electrical system. I removed the old OEM to battery frame ground as FCM noted. No new connection to starter as everything is intact otherwise.

 

got any pictures of that?^

 

The Oak dummy battery is attached to the OEM tray. The incoming hot cable is at the bottom of the terminal identified with orange in the photo. It is a ring fitted to the terminal. The OEM cable fits on top as a regular battery terminal. The terminal protector pulled back for your view. The ground is at the the remote, to the frame, so removed at this OEM site. There is an extra alarm harness. No extra or new wiring with this setup.

 

i love it man, thats smart

 

Forgot to mention that there is not a lot of wiggle room to move the dummy battery height up or down, or R or L, due to the OEM cable length. If you go this route, make sure of the terminal position. Not hard to mimic your battery; just keep in mind that you need to make the OEM connection. Use proper wire size, connections, fuses, and fasteners for your remote, and battery box if required. Some batteries like Odyssey do not require a box, but some applications still do.

 

Alright could you tell me if I have this done correctly or not.
** I'm a complete novice attempting a wire tuck.
1. After my wire tuck: I wanted relocated my battery to the back and I had custom cables made up, hooked up like the following.

2. Positive Battery Terminal (in back hatch) to STARTER (4g), the an additional cable attached to the starter in the same place as well which goes into the cabin to the relocated Engine Bay Fuse box. Then I have a positive cable from ALTERNATOR to the other terminal on the fuse box.

3. Negative Battery Terminal to ground on frame,then the trans is grounded as well.

From what i can tell this should be correct. But when i wen to turn her over, my starter fried.
Is this an incorrect hook-up and could this cause my starter to fry????

 

I think post 5 above is your answer. I did not do it that way as explained. If I understand you correctly, you have the same alternator connection as OEM, with an extended cable to the box to accomodate the tuck or move or the box. Your description of battery to starter to box is as above. I am not sure how you made the pass through the firewall. Could you have a sharp edge and short?

 

Thanks for the reply, I have checked where it passes through the fire wall and it does not appear to have any sharp edges that would cause a short.
And the only difference from post #5 and my set up is that i ran a negative cable from bat in back to the engine bay where it is grounded to the chassis.
any other ideas/suggestions.

 

89CRXHFB16A
Your 4ga from relocated batt. to starter is correct, although there should be a fuse in the 4ga as close to batt. as possible.
Your other lead from starter, [same terminal as 4ga] to the relocated engine bay fuse box is also correct, [it should also be fused if it is longer the 18" and or goes through fire wall.
The extended lead you are running from alternator, [charge lead] is also correct, although it should also be fused because it is longer then 18" and it runs through the fire wall.
The starter did not "fry" if you have it wired as described, even without the fuses. 94

 

What kind of fuses should I use and where can I get them? Also, minus the fuse on the positive cable as close to the battery as possible where should the others (fuses) be located, in side of engine bay near the starter and alt. or in cabin near the relocated fuse box?
Okay so there was something wrong with my starter or my ground, I cleaned the ground connections and reinstalled my rebuilt starter and she fired up, its official my tuck worked.

But about them fuses?
Thanks

 

Use ANL/WRF fuses, at least on the 4ga from the batt., you can use in-line holders and ceramic fuses for the alt. charge line and the starter to relocated fuse box line.
This is an expensive ANL fuse... http://staub.ca/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=P150WFI
And an expensive fuse holder... http://staub.ca/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=SFUSE

You can do a lot better from a car parts shop.

Car parts stores like Nappa, Lordco and so on will have them any electronics supply store will, if you do not mind getting gouged you can pick up "gold plated" ones from your local car audio shop.

Remember the fuse size, [amps] can not exceed the wire/cables rating, EG; on the 4ga you would use nothing bigger, [in this cas nothing smaller either] then a 150A fuse, if you switch up to 2ga you would use nothing bigger then a 225A fuse.94


Always place the fuse as close to the source of power as possible, the batt. fuse can be in a non waterproof holder, on the other hand the alt. and starter leads to the relocated fuse box should have waterproof fuse holders