InTheZoneAC

iTrader: (11)

This D16Y8 had an Endyn Oil Pump, loose clearances/crank polish done by local high performance machine shop(took them over 3 months to do those two things). After getting it running my factory oil pressure light started flickering after about 15 minutes, basically oil is warmed up at this time.

Further troubleshooting I finally install my speedhut oil pressure and temperature gauges. Cold start up I got around 90psi and again after 15 minutes or so it drops to 10psi and below. Before it's fully warmed up I can rev the motor and oil pressure raises with revs. ONLY when it's warmed up completely is when the pressure DOES NOT increase. I rev to 3k and pressure stays at 10psi and is still going down.

At this time I was running 0w-40 oil, maybe it's too thin when it's warm. I go with 20w-50 amsoil and it does the exact same thing. Oil pressure on cold start ups is a little above 90psi, once warm continues to dip below 10psi and I cut it off.

I decide to drop the pan, see if any bearing damage was done to this freshly built block, oil is spotless, pan is spotless, motor sounded smooth beforehand. I'm denying my fairly new Endyn pump is bad but I go ahead and order a KMS Oil Pump(endyn was taking over a month to get me mine so I went with KMS).

I just installed it yesterday, filled with amsoil 20w-50 and amsoil filter, ran the car and my cold psi is a little higher at 95, gradually making it's way down like normal. Once it hits around 15-20psi is when my pressure does not increase with revs. It started to dip a little between 10-15psi and that's when I cut it out.

So I'm having the same problem and the only thing I can think of is that my clearances were done wrong, too loose, from the machine shop.


Here's some other things about my car that may or may not play a factor, I just want more opinions on what to do next:

-I have a greddy thermostatic oil sandwich plate adapter with the 2 ports for an oil cooler blocked off, as I don't have an oil cooler installed yet. The other 2 are where my speedhut gauges go. Is there any chance those two ports being blocked are affecting my oil flow? I can take it off but I'll need to install my gauge to the Tee where my factory oil pressure switch and oil feed is at.

-Where my factory oil sender is at, my oil feed to the turbo starts with a -3an. Because of the included filter fitting on the turbo I had to buy an adapter to upsize it to -4an. Does it matter if the line goes bigger at the end, basically dropping pressure to the turbo? Should I make the line all one size to -3an? My oil drain from the turbo to the pan is -10an. Before this turbo I ran with no oil pressure problems with a -8an drain.

-I have a catch can where two ports off the valve cover and one on the back of the block where the black box used to be are all routed to the catch can and it's vented. So any liquid that makes it to the can is dumped back to the block and excess pressure is vented. Is this ok?

-Would anything in the vtec solenoid mesh filter affect oil pressure? I can check the screen anyway...

I'm trying to eliminate any stupid thing I'm overlooking...


1/24/2014: Fixed the problem. Had to do with capped off oil cooler ports on the greddy thermostatic adapter. I finished installing my oil cooler, connected everything, and the car is running perfect. It has a basemap so I was able to drive it for 20 minutes to see if anything went bad, it ran perfect.

Can't wait to finally get it tuned...

InTheZoneAC

iTrader: (11)

y8 block, darton sleeved
y8 crank, polished
speedhut oil pressure and temp gauge are electric

I think I may have solved the problem but I won't know until tomorrow. I did some searching online for thermostatic oil sandwich adapters and oil pressure problems. I came across someone who had a similar one like me and didn't have the oil cooler hooked up, he just had the In and Out ports blocked off.

This was my setup until today. I finally got around to mounting my oil cooler and fitting the lines. I just need to finish with one AN connector on one of the hoses, mount, and test.

What I was thinking, my sandwich adapter has a thermostat that opens at whatever temp it's rated, I forget. And I'm not sure how else the internals work on this, but I think once it's at the rated temp something opens and closes, but because something inside is blocked off(the ports where it feeds/returns from oil cooler) my pressure gauge isn't going to read anything since there's no exit flow.

Like I said, up until it showed normal peak temps my pressure is perfect, then I loose "visible oil pressure" completely.

So maybe the pressure internally is just fine, but my damn sandwich plate being blocked off affected "visible" readings.

I'll update tomorrow after I connect the last line to the cooler and top it off with some fresh oil...again. I'll be pissed if it was something this stupid that had me worried, but I'll be glad if all is well. Can finally get it tuned, hopefully

Just need to figure out why my temp gauge is acting up and fix the broken wire to my ICT connector that I broke while test fitting the hoses...