<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchinprogress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> my fuel gauge is in-accurate....what can i do to fix/test it? it's a 92 ls, i bought the car about a year ago (it had the problem then, but not as bad). My fuel gauge isnt working when i fill up my tank the needle says it's about 3/4 full.....but lately thats been changing also (it hasnt gone to a constant make lately) right now the needle range is about 1/4 below empty 2 3/4 full. like i said before the used to not drop that far below empty (when the needle is that low, the fuel light doesnt come on...even though it has came on before) so can someone help me out? what should i look for or test.....to try and fix the problem?
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get a wiring diagram for your car, ground the sending unit wire...if your needle goes all the way up then you have a bad float-sending unit or wiring problem...if it doesnt then your problem is within the gauge...

 

any licensed smog techs that can give me some tips on my Gross Polluter CRX Dx. Thanks.

 

Can anyone recommend a shop to replace a motor(d15). My beater took a dump. It's a stock 94lx and the head cracked. I was wondering if anyone knows of a place that can replace the longblock on the cheap. I was thinking about replacing the head but the civic has 190000 on it so I just want to replace the engine and keep it stock. I only use it to and from work. thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsled00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone recommend a shop to replace a motor(d15). My beater took a dump. It's a stock 94lx and the head cracked. I was wondering if anyone knows of a place that can replace the longblock on the cheap. I was thinking about replacing the head but the civic has 190000 on it so I just want to replace the engine and keep it stock. I only use it to and from work. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

solar eclipse auto performance
(619)474-0068
507 g ave national city ca 91950

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsled00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone recommend a shop to replace a motor(d15). My beater took a dump. It's a stock 94lx and the head cracked. I was wondering if anyone knows of a place that can replace the longblock on the cheap. I was thinking about replacing the head but the civic has 190000 on it so I just want to replace the engine and keep it stock. I only use it to and from work. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

B-series
760-752-1898

 

I just picked up a set of SSRs, but one of them is bent at one point along the outer lip, not bad enough to make it wobble or leak air but fairly noticeable. Anyone know about how much it would run me to get it fixed? I'll probably go down to Romero's sooner or later to get a quote, but if anyone has dealt with this before and can give me a rough estimate I'd be much obliged.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRizEJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone with a obd scanner wanna check my cel for me </TD></TR></TABLE>
you dont need a scanner to find out what the cel is for. I just pulled my code with a paper clip . Turns out my o2 sensor is going out (which leads to my problem).

I bought my DC header used and just found out that the o2 sensor bung's threads are a bit screwed . I cant thread in a new sensor so I was wondering if there are rethreaders for o2 bungs. It's either that or I have to shave down my new sensor's threads a bit to get it to fit.

 

you need a scan tool on OBDII and newer vehicles.

also, about the "threads" buy a tap and die kit and sears, home depot, or an sutoparts store.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need a scan tool on OBDII and newer vehicles.

also, about the "threads" buy a tap and die kit and sears, home depot, or an sutoparts store. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your a ****** post ***** joe!

at this rate you'll have 20,000 posts by the end of the year lol

tune your **** yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your a ****** post ***** joe!

at this rate you'll have 20,000 posts by the end of the year lol

tune your **** yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>


at least i gave out information instead of talking to someone and posting **** that could have been PM'ed


no, i havent tuned yet....

i was waiting for an exhaust. supposed to pick one up yesterday, but homie flaked out on me..... so i gotta wait until I sell more shirts or parts in my garage sale.


pick up my blue wheels, they'd look tight on your blue EF.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need a scan tool on OBDII and newer vehicles.

also, about the "threads" buy a tap and die kit and sears, home depot, or an sutoparts store. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My car is OBDII

Do the tap and die kits have the correct size for the o2 sensor bung? I dont know the exact threading on it.

 

buy one..... im sure they do.


how do you think the bung was threaded in the first place?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you think the bung was threaded in the first place? </TD></TR></TABLE>
a bolt was welded to the header.

 

and what...... GOD miracled that bolt/bung to have threads?

tell you what, shave down the threads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and what...... GOD miracled that bolt/bung to have threads?

tell you what, shave down the threads. </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, i thought nuts were made with the threads already in them.

 

no, we were made with two nuts hangin! thats it, no threads here... lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, we were made with two nuts hangin! thats it, no threads here... lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
you havent reached puberty?

lol, j/k

 

BAHAHAAAA.... i didnt think about that one you got me...

 

dam car has o2 problem... had a b series motor in and now i put the stock cx motor back in with cx ecu keeps throwing the same code 41 put in different ecu and and o2 still same problem...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGallmotorEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dam car has o2 problem... had a b series motor in and now i put the stock cx motor back in with cx ecu keeps throwing the same code 41 put in different ecu and and o2 still same problem... </TD></TR></TABLE>

you have/had a couple of your harness plugs switched, check your IAT sensor I bet its burnt out at the tip...

IAT sensor takes the grey plug with the green and red wires...

 

Can somebody help me how to change the head gasket for my friends LS swap CRX? I don't want to do anything stupid before I start replacing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any licensed smog techs that can give me some tips on my Gross Polluter CRX Dx. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya get rid of it!!!!!

 

my car overheats but only while sitting in stop and go traffic or sitting in one place for a long period of time...once i start driving at normal speeds again, the temperature goes back down to normal. I seem to add coolant to the reservoir every couple weeks. Any ideas? I don't want to take it in to a shop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car overheats but only while sitting in stop and go traffic or sitting in one place for a long period of time...once i start driving at normal speeds again, the temperature goes back down to normal. I seem to add coolant to the reservoir every couple weeks. Any ideas? I don't want to take it in to a shop. Any help would be greatly appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Does your fan turn on? Get your thermostat checked might be stuck open.

 

yeah i think that might be it, the fan doesn't turn on. So do I just replace it with another fan?