Hey guys my front wheel bearing was making a loud squeeling noise last week, so i bought a used complete hub set up.. control arm,rotor ect. I changed my old one and put in the new one.. today i was driving and the same squeel/squeeking noise came back. is there any other part that would make that noise? or might the wheelbearing in this hub also be bad.
thanks for the help

 

it was used.

i say pick up a new bearing.

 

anyone who has the "jack that cant lift a feather"....thats cuz there are seals that go bad in the hydraulic press...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydm ferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys my front wheel bearing was making a loud squeeling noise last week, so i bought a used complete hub set up.. control arm,rotor ect. I changed my old one and put in the new one.. today i was driving and the same squeel/squeeking noise came back. is there any other part that would make that noise? or might the wheelbearing in this hub also be bad.
thanks for the help </TD></TR></TABLE>

take off the wheel, and check and see if the dusk shield is hitting the brake caliper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nerologic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take off the wheel, and check and see if the dusk shield is hitting the brake caliper </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha, thats a very common problem.

 

I guess there was still some rust that needed to be rubbed off, its back to normal now.. thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydm ferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess there was still some rust that needed to be rubbed off, its back to normal now.. thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, tomorrow im picking up my new plugs, o2 sensor, ignitor, AND coil.

I'm also going to swap out my throttle body with a known working TPS sensor.


this weekend is the moment of truth.


if not, its being towed to a dyno and im just gonna hand over a wad of cash and say.... "FIX THIS- MAKE IT FASTER" </TD></TR></TABLE>

you tune yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you tune yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm making plans to bring it over to chris at hookups.

 

i have a question...
what would cause a rear main seal to give out...pretty consistently?
or may be its not the real main seal, but some other problem that I don't know how to fix lol...
right now we have light smoke and it smells like oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MissLady &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question...
what would cause a rear main seal to give out...pretty consistently?
or may be its not the real main seal, but some other problem that I don't know how to fix lol...
right now we have light smoke and it smells like oil </TD></TR></TABLE>

rear main shouldnt give out consistently.

where are the drips coming from?

light smoke and smells like oil? where is it smoking? where do you smell the oil?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rear main shouldnt give out consistently.

where are the drips coming from?

light smoke and smells like oil? where is it smoking? where do you smell the oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well about 6-7 months ago it was smoking really bad, and we concluded it was the rear main seal. B replaced it and the smoking has been gone since.

Then for the past month, the car has been running shitty. Random hot/cold issues...its either or, not ever in the middle. And then I noticed a tad bit of smoke from the drivers side last week, and then again yesterday after a long drive.




Modified by MissLady at 12:36 AM 1/24/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MissLady &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a question...
what would cause a rear main seal to give out...pretty consistently?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There could be a nick on the crankshaft wearing on the seal, or excessive crankcase pressure from blow-by. Is the car turboed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, tomorrow im picking up my new plugs, o2 sensor, ignitor, AND coil.

I'm also going to swap out my throttle body with a known working TPS sensor.


this weekend is the moment of truth.


if not, its being towed to a dyno and im just gonna hand over a wad of cash and say.... "FIX THIS- MAKE IT FASTER" </TD></TR></TABLE>


well, here we go. (keep in mind the whole time i am NOT working on this, I am asking Chris over at Hookups about what else i should do to dyno my car_

I swapped out the throttlebody, only to find that the one this dude sent me DOESN'T have all the parts he showed me in the picture.

so, I re-installed my B16 throttle body, but I didnt hook up the TPS, to see if it ran any different..... it didnt.

so i readjusted the TPS... finding that it DID move from where it used to be. (use the correct screws ladies and gentleman.)

still, car ran a little rough.

so, i changed the o2 sensor..... better, but still rough.

new plugs, still, better...... but rough. (at idle..... at throttle, it smoothed out.)

changed the coil. (not the ignitor yet, as i forgot to pick up a dist. o-ring)

started it up...... smoother, just a tad rough at idle.


so i adjusted the idle screw, adjusted the throttle cable.

still a little bit of shaking.


but i decided to drive it around the block....

by the time i get around the corner, it runs VERY VERY good.

get it home after a little 'spirted' drive, pull it in my garage.....


pop the hood, re-adjust the idle screw.


RUNS SMOOTH AGAIN.

tomorrow i will install the new coil..... (just in case..... plus, everything else is new, might as well)

check the plugs, install my new header, and take it over to Hookups for a dyno session.


I am happy, for now.

lets hope for 180-190HP with my supercharged D16a6. :crosses fingers:

 

post a graph sucka,...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">post a graph sucka,...</TD></TR></TABLE>


how about a graph, a video, and some pictures?

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There could be a nick on the crankshaft wearing on the seal, or excessive crankcase pressure from blow-by. Is the car turboed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not now....

 

well maybe not in the crankshaft but possibly in the block recess that holds the seal in place, they nick REALLY easy if you aren't careful when pulling the old one out (like using a screwdriver instead of a seal puller).
In a pinch sometimes (and I mean sometimes) you can run a little bit of honda bond around the outer edge of the seal and it will hold unless it is a real deep cut.

 

my fuel gauge is in-accurate....what can i do to fix/test it? it's a 92 ls, i bought the car about a year ago (it had the problem then, but not as bad). My fuel gauge isnt working when i fill up my tank the needle says it's about 3/4 full.....but lately thats been changing also (it hasnt gone to a constant make lately) right now the needle range is about 1/4 below empty 2 3/4 full. like i said before the used to not drop that far below empty (when the needle is that low, the fuel light doesnt come on...even though it has came on before) so can someone help me out? what should i look for or test.....to try and fix the problem?

 

anyone got an idea of what i should test ???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchinprogress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone got an idea of what i should test ???</TD></TR></TABLE>


either the sender in the tank, or the cluster itself.

does the cluster do anything else? any lights? when you put the hazards or blinkers, headlights on.... does anything fluctuate?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


either the sender in the tank, or the cluster itself.

does the cluster do anything else? any lights? when you put the hazards or blinkers, headlights on.... does anything fluctuate? </TD></TR></TABLE> no nothin fluctuate's when i turn my hazards or blinkers on, and everything else works on the cluster

 

anyone with a obd scanner wanna check my cel for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRizEJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone with a obd scanner wanna check my cel for me </TD></TR></TABLE>

pm me... $50 for use of the scanner