Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
#1
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Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Anyone running the 92-93 integra b18a1 engine with the plug and play 94-95 integra ecu? Thoughts? Issues?
Last edited by Free Man; 12-13-2018 at 09:41 AM.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Assuming that a '92-93 Integra B18A2 from India is similar to the B18A1 we have here in the US market, and you have three grey plugs at the ECU location, then yes... you could use the '94-95 USDM P74/75 ECU to run your engine.
#3
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re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Lol I don’t have an engine from India. I’m in Pittsburgh and I have the normal 92-93 integra engine. B18a1. But the obd1 not the obd0 version. Sorry, bout the confusion.
also my question wasn’t whether you can do it, but rather is there any positives or negetives to running the b18b2 p75 ecu
also my question wasn’t whether you can do it, but rather is there any positives or negetives to running the b18b2 p75 ecu
#4
Honda-Tech Member
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
OK, you are still throwing out incorrect engine codes... the US B18's found in '94-01 Integras like you would find up there in Pittsburgh would be a B18B1... not a B18B2. Now, if the question that you are asking is would you see any performance improvement by using a '94-95 P74/75 ECU over the PR4 ECU that you have in your '92-93 B18A1 engine vehicle, the answer is no. The two engines are rated within 3 HP from each other from the factory... and it isn't because of the ECU. There is a slight difference in cam profile and a sprinkle of compression.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
OK, you are still throwing out incorrect engine codes... the US B18's found in '94-01 Integras like you would find up there in Pittsburgh would be a B18B1... not a B18B2. Now, if the question that you are asking is would you see any performance improvement by using a '94-95 P74/75 ECU over the PR4 ECU that you have in your '92-93 B18A1 engine vehicle, the answer is no. The two engines are rated within 3 HP from each other from the factory... and it isn't because of the ECU. There is a slight difference in cam profile and a sprinkle of compression.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Looking more for answers from people with experience doing this, and not theoretical replies. That, or someone familiar enough with the DA to tell me what could cause my issues.
basically ANY time that I come out of gear into neutral, whether if it’s after coming to a stop at a light, or when cruising at highway speeds, the engine drops to like 300 rpm then bounces up and begins begins surging / idle hunting between 600rpm and 1200rpm. If I’m at a complete stop, it does this for about 5 seconds then it settles into a nice idle of 900 rpm. If I go into neutral at highway speeds, it will continuously surge/hunt for idle. Another strange thing is if I’m completely stopped and I turn the wheel even slightly, then it will cause another 5 seconds of surging/hunting before settling again.
Rarely, in fact very rarely, after some super spirited driving, (think redlining through all the gears) the idle will continuously surge while in neutral until the car is shut off.
the other issue is that after a warm start, the engine likes to bog down if I attempt to apply anything less than 50% throttle. It feels like fuel is cut, the Rpm begin to drop and for about a full second, my pedal becomes unresponsive. It then cuts back on but if I try to just cruise in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear with light throttle, the issue will repeat itself which causes the car to get very jerky, making it seem like I don’t know how to drive a stick. If I apply some decent throttle, there is no bogging down. But as soon as my foot comes off the pedal the car jerks and the rpms begin to drop rapidly... this is really annoying. If I keep driving it, it will go away after a while. This does not happen after every warm start but rather more often than not.
So so far I’ve checked for air in the cooling system.
ive replaced the ECT and o2 sensors. I’ve cleaned out my IACV valve, and I’ve checked timing. Spark plugs and wires. Beyond that I’m lost as to what could be causing this.
basically ANY time that I come out of gear into neutral, whether if it’s after coming to a stop at a light, or when cruising at highway speeds, the engine drops to like 300 rpm then bounces up and begins begins surging / idle hunting between 600rpm and 1200rpm. If I’m at a complete stop, it does this for about 5 seconds then it settles into a nice idle of 900 rpm. If I go into neutral at highway speeds, it will continuously surge/hunt for idle. Another strange thing is if I’m completely stopped and I turn the wheel even slightly, then it will cause another 5 seconds of surging/hunting before settling again.
Rarely, in fact very rarely, after some super spirited driving, (think redlining through all the gears) the idle will continuously surge while in neutral until the car is shut off.
the other issue is that after a warm start, the engine likes to bog down if I attempt to apply anything less than 50% throttle. It feels like fuel is cut, the Rpm begin to drop and for about a full second, my pedal becomes unresponsive. It then cuts back on but if I try to just cruise in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear with light throttle, the issue will repeat itself which causes the car to get very jerky, making it seem like I don’t know how to drive a stick. If I apply some decent throttle, there is no bogging down. But as soon as my foot comes off the pedal the car jerks and the rpms begin to drop rapidly... this is really annoying. If I keep driving it, it will go away after a while. This does not happen after every warm start but rather more often than not.
So so far I’ve checked for air in the cooling system.
ive replaced the ECT and o2 sensors. I’ve cleaned out my IACV valve, and I’ve checked timing. Spark plugs and wires. Beyond that I’m lost as to what could be causing this.
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#8
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#9
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iTrader: (14)
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Don't. It's really not your fault. It's simply the way technology is hyperbolic in nature. No one is absolutely sure where issues can originate from within an engine system these days, and no longer are manufacturers publishing articles and books for technicians (or would-be-technicians) to review decision-trees and diagnostic tools to help with solving problems. Nowadays, its a "throw parts at it until the problem is resolved" - style of mentality used in today's diagnostics.
What tends to bother me particularly in H-T is the fact that when there was a problem, and someone solved it, not only did they say they solved it, but documented how the issue was solved so that this forum would be used as a resource. Even with Google, a lot of times, solutions to problems just aren't cataloged anymore, and the thread either closed, or a new avenue of discussion is created. H-T isn't the knowledge base that it used to be since there are more questions, and fewer answers. Even the person solving the issue rarely gets acknowledgement for it; even worse, the person who had the issue from the beginning doesn't pay it forward by helping others with a similar issue. It really sucks.
*Off the soap-box*. So, I think there are a few areas that you might want to look at before throwing another ECU at the issue, which actually may make things worse. Just put the old ECU back in, and start looking at this from a mechanical point of view; the reason being is that these are still standard single -ECM systems (for your year and model) and not F-CAN or any other Connected Network Bus-type system. So, the symptoms that you think would be associated with the ECM, actually may not be; it may be just the ECM reacting to the signals and indicia of what it experiences as the problem exists.
What tends to bother me particularly in H-T is the fact that when there was a problem, and someone solved it, not only did they say they solved it, but documented how the issue was solved so that this forum would be used as a resource. Even with Google, a lot of times, solutions to problems just aren't cataloged anymore, and the thread either closed, or a new avenue of discussion is created. H-T isn't the knowledge base that it used to be since there are more questions, and fewer answers. Even the person solving the issue rarely gets acknowledgement for it; even worse, the person who had the issue from the beginning doesn't pay it forward by helping others with a similar issue. It really sucks.
*Off the soap-box*. So, I think there are a few areas that you might want to look at before throwing another ECU at the issue, which actually may make things worse. Just put the old ECU back in, and start looking at this from a mechanical point of view; the reason being is that these are still standard single -ECM systems (for your year and model) and not F-CAN or any other Connected Network Bus-type system. So, the symptoms that you think would be associated with the ECM, actually may not be; it may be just the ECM reacting to the signals and indicia of what it experiences as the problem exists.
Last edited by TheShodan; 12-15-2018 at 11:15 AM.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Shodan please, answer me this...
in your experience, how can steering input cause the idle to fluctuate? I do have power steering.
in your experience, how can steering input cause the idle to fluctuate? I do have power steering.
#12
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iTrader: (14)
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
Very easy. you answered your own question. Power steering involves the use of hydraulic fluid which is circulated by a power steering pump that is electrically controlled. Any voltage changes or drop (by turning the steering wheel) could drop the idle to a point of stall. The IACV (which is an actuated control valve) would compensate by raising idle rpm to keep the engine from stalling. The actuator consists of a linear servo actuator servomotor that controls a plunger which varies air flow through the throttle body. The position of the servomotor and hence the amount of air bypass is controlled digitally by the engine ECU. If the ECU were damaged in some way, you wouldn't have fluctuating idle in the first place, as the ECU wouldn't see the bypassed air that the IACV is trying to control. This is why I say this isn't ECU related.
#13
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re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
I discovered today that there’s a chip installed in the ecu. Lol. Sort of stumbled on this by accident.....Discovered that a nagging water leak in the passenger wheel well has caused the entire carpet and floormat to be soaked since it’s been really cold lately....No more evaporation....so I pull out the ecu to try and wrap it with some plastic, and Decided to open it up first. After looking for a little while, I saw the chip. I am really surprised! So I knew the car had a p75 in it when I bought it, but the previous owner never mentioned the chip. I’m going to get another ecu and see what happens.....
#14
#15
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Thread Starter
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
I don’t have what’s needed to do that.
Besides, this motor runs really well. Despite 228,xxx miles on the clock, it has good torque and it feels like it is making power all the way to 6k. More power than it should, being that it has NO bolt ons. I did discover an aftermarket flywheel on it..... I’m starting to think that the engine may be built and that, this ecu is helping take advantage of it, so I wouldn’t want to mess with it.
Besides, this motor runs really well. Despite 228,xxx miles on the clock, it has good torque and it feels like it is making power all the way to 6k. More power than it should, being that it has NO bolt ons. I did discover an aftermarket flywheel on it..... I’m starting to think that the engine may be built and that, this ecu is helping take advantage of it, so I wouldn’t want to mess with it.
#16
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
I don’t have what’s needed to do that.
Besides, this motor runs really well. Despite 228,xxx miles on the clock, it has good torque and it feels like it is making power all the way to 6k. More power than it should, being that it has NO bolt ons. I did discover an aftermarket flywheel on it..... I’m starting to think that the engine may be built and that, this ecu is helping take advantage of it, so I wouldn’t want to mess with it.
Besides, this motor runs really well. Despite 228,xxx miles on the clock, it has good torque and it feels like it is making power all the way to 6k. More power than it should, being that it has NO bolt ons. I did discover an aftermarket flywheel on it..... I’m starting to think that the engine may be built and that, this ecu is helping take advantage of it, so I wouldn’t want to mess with it.
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
re: Running a b18a2 with a P75 ECU. Good idea or no?
I’m just getting familiar with his car as I’ve only owned it for 8 months.. My first integra ever... always been a civic owner but always loved the DA body style. This one was clean and rust free but It was not running. $1000 cash. It needed a distributor, the trans was shot and all types of suspension bits needed replaced. I’ve had it in good street runnin condition since September. I actually drove it to Atlanta and back from Pittsburgh and i went through the mountains... now I’m in love with it.
But like I said, why the previous owner was running a p75 on it seemed weird as everything else seemed to be stock... but now I’m curious if the tuning chip is really making a difference...
But like I said, why the previous owner was running a p75 on it seemed weird as everything else seemed to be stock... but now I’m curious if the tuning chip is really making a difference...
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