I'm doing a head swap and when i removed the stock head, most of the head gasket stuck to it. there are some spots on the mounting surface of the block that are 100% clean. but most parts have this grey graphite looking stuff on it. it is very thin and I've been scraping away alot with a razor blade in the areas where it was thick enough to notice if you ran your finger over it. there are still plenty of areas where the dark graphite stuff is left but it seems like it isn't scraping off anymore. Think its ok to go ahead and continue w/ the swap? my new headgasket is Mr. Gasket and the original gasket has 135k mi on it. Thanks

 

keep at it with the blade and get off as much as you can

 

Similar to my technique on GM Cast Iron. I scrape with a shop vacuum running and held right near the razor blade. I use gasket remover and scrape again, with the vacuum running, then again till its all gone. I then use a laquer thinner (or acetone) to wipe of all head and block surfaces prior to reassembly. I blow out the cylinders after vacuuming, and with the vacuum running in the cylinder bore. Then wipe cylinder walls with WD-40'd lint free rag, then oil my cylinder walls.

Always interested in a better technique. I never like the amount of crud I get on the cylinder walls, you guys have any hints that are better?

Just sharing my bow-tie techniques for background info.

Regards,
BigMoose

 

careful useage of a air grinder and Scotchbrite pads.

Thats is how they do it at the dealerships.

 

Hi Mista,

Do you mean like the 3 inch scotchbrite pads for a right angle die grinder?

Regards,
BigMoose

 

2" pads

 

I use a die grinder, especially on intake manifolds usually but if you dont have one, use a scotch brite pad with some wd-40 or whatever you use.