ok my car still isnt running right and it kinda got worse today. Everytime I put the car into neutral to slow down either the car will shake and the battery light will come on and it will do this over and over in a pattern. Or it will just die while im slowing down or when i come to a dead stop.

I am so confused and lost as to what the problem could be. I have changed the plugs, fuel filter, bled the coolant about 5 times already, swapped IACV, removed FITV and screwed back in the plastic piece, checked t-belt timing (dead on), ran seafoam through the IM and gas tank, sprayed carb cleaner all over the TB, IM and even into the IM. I have swapped plug wires with a set i tested the resistance on, changed o2 sensors, tested the map, tested the TPS, etc etc and still i havent figured it out.

Now the car is unbearable to drive unless ur above 3000rpm in any gear. it sounds like its missing down low and when it gets in the upper rpm range it doesnt miss. I am so frustrated with this thing, somneone has to be able to help me figure out whats wrong. How can i have tested so many things and yet still havent found the problem.

The only things that are out of the ordinary is it throws a VSS code 17 and a code 1 which i believe is O2 sensor? The lower hole on the TB is still sucking eventhough ive screwed the piece in the FITV in and the car is completely warm. Also it idles perfect when the engine is cold but once it starts to warm up it just goes to ****.

Anyone have any ideas on what i should check or should i replace the FITV with a known working one and see what happens?

 

Someone help me asap

 

k im so confused, i just routed the coolant directly from the engine to the IACV bypassing the FITV and the idle does stay low but there is still mad suction on the lower hole of hte TB when warm. What am i not doing rite here. Also it still stalls out at warm idle with it bypassed so im even more confused.

 

TTT

 

First, I'd check all the grounds and fix the codes. If that doesn't fix it i'd try increasing idle speed. check the alternator belt tension.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=468260

 

wow thats an awesome link, thanks a bunch for that. I have checked the tranny ground, battery ground (located in trunk), thermostat ground and the engine ground and couldnt find any problems.

The idle adjustment screw is set so it should idle around 1000 right now but it doesnt make a difference where its set it will always stall out.

The alternator belt was pretty tight when i put it on but when i start it up sometimes it will squeel which im guessing means its slightly loose. i dont think this would cause all the problems but maybe?

 

if you throwing a O2 sensor code it might be time to try a new o2 sensor. a bad sensor can cause some weird drivability issues.

 

yeah i swapped the o2 (was good before swap) with another o2 that was on the car before the swap and i know was working and it made no difference. The code im throwing is i believe wiring related (high/low voltage from o2 i think). I am gonna do the test today but i dont think thats the problem.

I have read a thread where the guy had pretty much the identical problem and he changed plug wires and the problems all went away but ive swapped them with another set i have tested (used) and it didnt change anything. Could it be that i should throw some magnecor or ngk blues (brand new) on or wut?

Could it be an ECU issue maybe although its the same ecu i was using before.

 

ttt

 

k im a little confused with this o2 sensor stuff. When i disconnect the connector from the o2 sensor and i measure the voltage on the wire harness side at closed throttle its 0.3xx, when i go to full throttle it doesnt change at all. In this case it says i should replace the o2 sensor but i did that and it didnt make a difference before. im wondering am i suppose to be measuring the voltage on the harness side or the o2 sensor side. if the o2 sensor is disconnected how would it emit a voltage?

 

Anyone?