Thus far no one can answer what my problem is..

My idle is crap. I start my car it idles at 2,000rpm, drops to 1500 then settles and surges between 500 and 1200rpms.

I cleaned my FITV, I cleaned my IACV, changed my fuel filter, changed my spark plugs, put new oil in, used oil treatment, used seafoam fuel injector cleaner.

Then my buddy adjusted my Idle Air Screw, didn't fix the problem but now my car is gutless feeling until 3000rpms. Sounds like either to much air or not enough is getting in.. Does anyone know what the screw needs to be set at?

Also - I heard it could be my "Knock Sensor"? Does that sound correct?

Thanks.

 

P.S

D16z6 engine.

Also-
I'm getting crappy miles to the gallon.. Probably like 25mpg tops.. Which we all know is horrible for a d16z6..
Also my car smells like oil bout 80% of the time from the hood.. Thanks all.

 

does your check engine light work, and if so is it on?

idle adjustment only affects idle so if the idle screw is miss adjusted, and even if the IACV is crap the car would go down the road fine otherwise.

if you haven't yet, try to rule out some sort of vacuum leak. this will cause the idle symptoms you're talking about. i have a feeling thought that there is more to it since the car isn't running well.

refer to your service manual for further adjustments and checks. if you don't have one, get one.

 

What ecu are you running?

Mike

 

change the fitv and the iacv if needed as well. the fitv gets clogged with coolant that has crusted up. and the plunget on them goes bad too. change it with a new part, replace all the small coolant lines and then cleat the coolant line fittings with a small drill bit to be sure they are clear for coolant to flow. also do this to the bleeder valve and then put all new coolant lines on the car. and dont for get to bleed the coolant system. your buddy messed with the idle screw so its gonna need adjusting again with the new parts. and be sure you fill the coolant after bleeding it.

 

im having the same problem and ive done the same things you have and i checked for vacuum leaks by plugging that hole inside the intake mani and the call stalled out

 

Ignition timing being off could also affect idleing and surging idle. Double check your timing, it wouldnt hurt

 

how would we go about doing that? XD

 

which post are you reffering to? the timing check? or the coolant line check? or the fitv, and iacv part?

 

the timing check

 

get a timing light and a jumper wire and a dwell meter. depends what year and model car you have. you may not need the dwell meter. and if you have a good OBD2 scanner you can even check timing on those if they have a live data feature (if your car is OBD2). what kind of car you have?

 

^^^ he said it all.

 

i have a 93 integra with the stock B18A1+

 

[IMG]1. Start the engine and allow it to warm up (cooling fan comes on). SCS & DLC Connector Locations 2. Connect the BRN/WHT and BLK terminals of the 2-wire Service check connector (SCS) located at right, under dash with the SCS short connector. Timing Light Hookup 3. Connect a timing light to the engine; while the engine idles, point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover. Timing Mark Location 4. Adjust ignition timing, if necessary, to the following specifications: Timing should be: 16±2°BTDC (RED) at 750±50 rpm in neutral Distributor Adjustment 5. Adjust as necessary by loosening the distributor hold-down bolts and turning the distributor housing counterclockwise to advance the timing, or clockwise to retard the timing. 6. Tighten the hold-down bolts and recheck the timing. Torque to: 24 Nm (17 ft lb) 7. Remove SCS short connector at the Service check connector. © 2010 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved. Terms of Use[/IMG]

 

another thing is my CEL is on but only when the car is on when its off theres no CEL on. And when i try to jump it the light doesnt do anything

 

^ to the OP, sounds like a vacuum leak. I don't know single cams, but try changing your MAP sensor, and if that doesn't work, Try changing your Intake manifold gasket.

 

yeah the CEL will only be on if there has been a code set and when the car is on....hang on and i'll post how to check the CEL....got some things going on right now....BRB ASAP

 

Don't thread jack me please.

I think I failed to mention and just to clarify.

No CEL is on and the light does work.
The car does not hesitate or give the gutless feeling when it isn't heated up.
It only does it when it's heated up. And if I don't give it to much gas it won't do it..
Aahhhhh!

 

on a 93 integra you should just have to jump the little 2 wire plug under the dash on the passenger side and then the check engin light will blink the code.

 

[IMG]1. Start the engine and allow it to warm up (cooling fan comes on). SCS & DLC Connector Locations 2. Connect the BRN/WHT and BLK terminals of the 2-wire Service check connector (SCS) located at right, under dash with the SCS short connector. Timing Light Hookup 3. Connect a timing light to the engine; while the engine idles, point the light toward the pointer on the timing belt cover. Timing Mark Location 4. Adjust ignition timing, if necessary, to the following specifications: Timing should be: 16±2°BTDC (RED) at 750±50 rpm in neutral Distributor Adjustment 5. Adjust as necessary by loosening the distributor hold-down bolts and turning the distributor housing counterclockwise to advance the timing, or clockwise to retard the timing. 6. Tighten the hold-down bolts and recheck the timing. Torque to: 24 Nm (17 ft lb) 7. Remove SCS short connector at the Service check connector. © 2010 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved. Terms of Use[/IMG]

 

 

 

Like I said please don't thread jack.. If you wanna ask questions about your car then make a thread..

Anyone have anythign about MY issue?

 

i stopped posting bro calm down

 

Low Coolant level or malfunctioning ECT sensor
Ignition Timing - Poor spark
Clogged PCV system
Vacuum leak - cracked hose - worn, cracked gasket
Dirty or malfunctioning IACV or FITV (Just because you cleaned it doesn't mean it's working)

If it is only doing this after it is heated up it sounds like an FITV or ECT issue not an IACV problem.

Here is something to try. After the car has warmed up. Remove the intake tube and cover the bottom hole in the throttle body. Then cover the upper hole in the throttle body.



The red arrow is pointing to the FITV port. The upper port is for the IACV.

Let us know what happens to your RPM when you do these two steps.

Does the idle even out, does the car stall or nothing happens at all?

Have you ever moved the idle set screw from the factory setting?