Duranged

Friday night I installed Tokico Illuminas and set them at level 3 front and rear. Today I decided to push the car a little bit (don't worry, private road). I took a long 90º right-hand turn at about 60-65mph. Part way through the turn the rear tires broke loose a little bit (with the front wheel still turned) and when they gained grip again the car launched into the turn. I was able to maintain control of the car, but I was shocked that the rear tires broke loose so easily... The car didn't do this before the shocks.

I thought the stiffer springs in front and the softer springs in the rear would lead to understeer and maintain rear grip in the tires. Do I have the shocks set too stiff for the springs in the rear?

Also, I had the car aligned after the shocks were installed. The camber in the front is -1.7L/-1.8R. I'm fine with that, but I have a problem with the rear... -.5L/-1.4R. I'm wondering if the difference in rear camber is what's causing the problems. The car seems to be lowered evenly all the way around (about a one figner gap), so I don't know why it's so far off. What's the best way to go about fixing this (camber kit, washer trick...)? I don't mind negative camber, I just want it to be equal from side to side.

The car is a 2000 LS with Ground Control coilovers (the standard 380F/250Rish spring rates), front and rear strut bars, rear tie bar (I know, the bars just make the chassis stiffer and don't affect oversteer/understeer), stock swaybars (for now), and 205/40/17 Yokohama Parada Spec-2's

I've read through the articles on team-integra.net and now I'm kinda stuck. I appreciate any help. Thanks!

OTT

Stiffer springs in the front and softer in the rear permitmore understeer and vice versa.

It sounds like you have the rears to stiff but the difference in camber you have will definitly affect the tires contact patch greatly!

theres possibly somthing bent in the suspension, the -1.4 on the right wheel sound about right for that much lowering so Id checkout the rear left LCA to see if its mis shaped, It would only need to be bent slightly to make a difference. Did you have the carfrom new? If not thenmaybe somone slid the rear left intoa curb or parked with that wheel fast against the kurb, That would put enough pressure on the LCA to do that.

...And why dont you want oversteer? Damn stiffen the reasr and soften the front, get the backend out in the corners!

And then if the rear comes out ever you just add corrective steering and accelerate to pull it back into line


Hey have you gota pic of your car? Im buying a teg soon but looking at all of the different bodystyles, Cheers

Duranged

I figured the -1.4 was about right. I'll look around today to see if I can find anything bent. Our family has had the car since new. It was my brother's firrst now mine. Anything could have happened when my brother had the car...

I don't take the car to the track, so I'd rather keep the stability on the street. I'd love to, but I can't afford another set of wheels and tires (I already have two: snow and summer).

It scared the crap out of me because I've never had the rear break out on me in a fwd car before and have never had to countersteer.

Oh, and a pciture...



There's more at http://members.cardomain.com/notegbacks

OTT

Sweet! Thats a DC1 bodyshell right. You know the DC2 Is that sold in the US? (the one with the accord like headlights) Ive seen people on the site with the JDM.

Whats the interior like on that one then?

and what you said about your Bro. Sounds about right lol

And like I said look at the rear left Lower Control Arm. Its hard to tell when its only affected slightly but it makes a world of difference in handling; An yeah when your in a FWD that oversteers it kinda doesnt feel right but more handlingand fun for the track. As for your camber; Buy a kit for each corner otherwise your goingto haveto keep getting your tires rotatedbecause of the uneven tread wear!

Rtype16

I would run about -1.5 on both fronts. -1 on the rear. 1/8" toe out in the front and about 0-1/16" toe out in the rear. Also run sway bars. also set ride height by the chassis of the car not the wheel well gaps that may help out. You actually want the rear to come out before the front I would suggest to run around 350 in the fronts and around 500 in the rear. Just my suggestions do what you want with it.

OTT

unfortunatly hes already decided that hes not using it for the track though, Hey nice choice on the springrates

Duranged

I'm pretty sure it's a DC2. I've never really cared enough to take the time to figure it out. I'd post some interior pics, but I don't have a camera.

I didn't get a chance today to look at the control arm, but I did look at the stiffness of the rear shocks. the left was set at 4 and the right at 5. I never touched them since they were installed... very odd. I'm sure that played a role in the rear tires loosing grip so soon.

The spring rates I have now are what came with the Limited Edition Ground Controls. My brother bought them when the car was his so I didn't have much of a choice. As of now, changing out springs isn't an option because of the money situation.

By the way, my toe is 0.00" FL, 0.01" in FR, then 0.06" in RL and RR

What do you mean by setting ride height by the chassis and not wheel well gaps?

Rtype16

You should actually have the car corner weighted, but since it is a daily driven car not a big deal. On the sides of your car there are jack points for the car one front and one rear. They are welded to the length of the chassis. Use these points as a reference for ride height. From frotn to rear. Now in most cars if you do set it this way the gaps will not be the same which in my car I don't care, but some people do. So if you want to do it by fender well gap you can no big deal since you aren't tracking the car.