I have a 94 TEG RS and i was wondering if it would be worth it to have the head Ported and Polished. I heard that the LS heads are really restrictive and that this is a good idea for the B18B. Would i be seeing a good amount of HP increase if i did this. Also, how much money does a job like this run???

 

It's true that the B18B head does not flow as well as its VTEC siblings. However, you need to look at your ultimate goals before having the head worked. Because in order to take advantage of the added air flow a worked head can provide, you will also need a bigger set of cams, a good header & exhaust, a good intake pipe, and possibly a bigger throttle body or intake manifold, and then with all that extra air, you may need a bigger set of injectors, especially if you raise your compression. Let us know what your mods are now, and what your ultimate goals are.
good luck,
Jared

 

Well, I have the money right now for an AEM Cold Air Intake, Greddy Stainless Steel header, and a nice Apex-i N1 Exhaust. Maybe a little extra for a test pipe too. So that is what i am ordering next. But after that, I really wanna get a Drag 3 Turbo.

 

Or, i might just run a ZEX kit.

 

NOOOOooooooo. Go turbo more expensive but power all the time. All time racer not some time racer. Bu

 

Why are you going to order the intake and header if you are going turbo!!!! That is wasting money since they will not match up with the turbo.......!!!!!

 

I say you just make up your mind before you go throwing money away. do some research or make it easier on yourself and just throw your money over here!!

 

Well, considering its probably conna be a good 2 years till i can save up the money for a turbo (im only 16 and i bus tables at a resturant for my job) then i want the header and intake to hold me over in the mean time.

By the way, how much does a port and polish job cost??

 

P&P's cost about 750 +!

Man, save your money. Or buy used!!!! But honestly just get yourself a strait through muffler and a cheap short intake. That way your car will sound nice and you will be able to get the turbo sooner. Trust me you don't want to waste money on stuff you will have to sell and 1/4 the price you bought it.

 

you say this like a port + polish is cheap. dont forget the vtec heads flow better cause they have to. they make there power up top where the need alot more air. a p+p on the b18b doesnt seem worth it. youd prolly loose a little down low and not notice much at all on the top. the b18b cam will die before 7k. now if your talking crower cams springs retainers p+p larger injectors skunk2 itm ported tb intake exhaust headers and a chiped ecu with a afc then that would be worth it. whoa im outa breath.

if you notice you can get a turbo for the same $ instead of all that and youd be way faster. theres only one way to go with the b18b that i can see and it involves boost......

 

p&p jobs do cost alot, but their actually pretty nice. But if ur really wanting to go turbo, do it and dont waste your money on the intake and header. oh yeah i hear P&P jobs work very good with a turbo. all motor set ups for an LS motor isnt very cost effective, unfortunatly im going with a all motor set up for my LS but hey i wasnt looking for globs for hp, just much more than wut i had.

so with that being said: TURBO BABY!!!

 

Just do it yourself! Nah, kiddin with ya. I did my exhaust ports. Widened then width-wise about 3/16 and heighth-wise about 1/8+
Noticed a little extra mid torque and acceleration on the butt-dyno.
Whole process took about 3 hours with the head on using an electric drill and metal shaving bit.

 

If you are going to do anything get an intake and an exhaust system first, then go Turbo. If you port it and polish it and don't change the intake, exhaust and cams you are not going to achieve much, if anything at all.

By the way the don't do the crab that 93LSivic did, that's called f------ you head up not porting and certainly not polishing.

 

How do u blocked the dust go back in the piston and the valves, i would like to try it.

 

Don't try it. Real P&P will completely reshape & port the whole port, not just the outer edge. Plus on a street engine you don't want to take off a tremendous amount on the exhaust side, unless you're turbo!

but since we've got the ball rolling on the LS thing, can I maybe direct some tech heads to this thread, oh well, here is the actual post (in integra forum).

-------------------

Well it looks like I've scored. I finished taking apart the spare '95 head I picked up and brought it into my engine builder and got him to check the guides. Everything is in great shape. So basically here is what it looks like:
- '95 LS head $150US
- Crower 62403 Cams $240US
- Crower 68181 Valve springs $175US
- Chikara 4-2-1 Torque Step Header $125US going to be replaced with JDM ITR 4-1 header
- Adjustable cam gears (not bought yet) ($150US)
- Stage 2 TK MOTION head work (Milled to spec, race ported intake ports, street ported exhaust ports, polished exhaust ports & CC, 3 angle valve grind, backcut valves, ported intake manifold, new seals) $600US


So thats approximately $1500 US which should definately put me up to approx 150whp - 160whp after tuning and an SAFC and FPR. I can get a full B16A swap w/tranny & ecu for ~$950. My LS has 60k miles on it and the B16A swap might have the same or more, but I doubt less. OK now here's a real life situation. What would you pick in this B16A vs LS swap and give me your reasoning. I haven't started the headwork so I can always turn back! And before I hear it, no turbo, and no B18C's. All I want is a mid 14 to high 14 sec car. My car currently runs a 15.6.

-------------------

Let's hear it!

 

**** you civicturbo. Is this gonna be another thread where we're at each others throats? Huh bitch? I dont know why you post in the tech forum. You have nothing helpful to add for anyone, nor are you advanced enough to help anyone either.
The ports were polished with different grades of paper after I did this. Also it led to lower ET's at the track too, so it is working for me.
As far as the exhaust ports being reshaped further into the head. There really isnt much to be reshaped. The valve is right there and the port widens out to where the valve seats already.
Everyone can tell me that I shouldnt have, but I noticed gains immediately after I did this and also with timeslips.

 

Sorry, but that set-up listed above is nice and all, but CROWER CAMS SUCK ***

Why would I say that? Because they BREAK

I work at a shop and we've seen sets that have broken - this is no BS either. Sahall I provide a link to pics of a guy's car that had the motor RUINED by Crower crap-cams?

I'll find the link and then post it here. Be right back...

 

Here you go good friend
http://www.hybridforum.net/showthrea...sb=5&o=1&part=

 

There's also a topic there on Hybrid with PICS of the damage too - I KNOW this guy and those cams RUINED his B18C1...

Crower sucks donkeyballs.