Please help...this damn distributor problem is killing me
Ok...so I was throwing code 9 (cyp sensor)...because my rotor screw came loose and all hell broke out. I just replaced the distributor housing, rotor, cap, leak cover, except the ICM (igniter unit).
Fired up the car...ran fine for 5-10mins as I set the timing. Shut car off.
Come back...turn on the car...notice my tach bounce up and down from 1-3rpm rapidly...but then seems fine...after driving for 3 mins...car dies. Turns on...then dies...now won't start up.
Do you think it's the igniter?
-Rod
Fired up the car...ran fine for 5-10mins as I set the timing. Shut car off.
Come back...turn on the car...notice my tach bounce up and down from 1-3rpm rapidly...but then seems fine...after driving for 3 mins...car dies. Turns on...then dies...now won't start up.
Do you think it's the igniter?
-Rod
My tach bounces around as well.....I ran some tests and it seems to be pointing to the ICM. Watch out though they are expensive.
I'm guessing it has to be that...here is a pic i took earlier of the old housing. As you can see, the area where the ICM sits is filled with crap because of the rotor screw coming loose. I'm guessing it killed the ICM as well?

-Rod

-Rod
Well the chewy marks on the sensor pickup may be what is causing the problem, but you would need a good scope to determine if the values are outta whack cause it appears that the pickup is still in good enuff shape to send a signal.. you could always "trick" the ecu into thinking that the cam is spinning by locating the CYP input signal wire to the ECM and grounding,un-grounding the wire at a fast pace.. same pace as the spinning of the cam.. you need 1 person to crank the motor and 1 person to trick the ecu.. a little tricky, but it works for me..
It could be the fact that your ICM just decided to call it quits...
It could be the fact that your ICM just decided to call it quits...
Actually that was my old distributor...here's the new housing:

I'm guessing that the damage was not only to the cyp sensor but also the icm. When I fired up the car with the new housing and everything...code 9 was no longer shown...but the tach started "floating" a bit and eventually died. It'd start up for 10-15secs..but die again. Now it won't start. The "floating" tach symptom i've been reading seems to be common with a faulty ignitor. I'm just mad that I waited a week for my housing etc...assuming my icm, coil was ok...finally put in my stuff...and now the ignitor could be bad.
-Rod

I'm guessing that the damage was not only to the cyp sensor but also the icm. When I fired up the car with the new housing and everything...code 9 was no longer shown...but the tach started "floating" a bit and eventually died. It'd start up for 10-15secs..but die again. Now it won't start. The "floating" tach symptom i've been reading seems to be common with a faulty ignitor. I'm just mad that I waited a week for my housing etc...assuming my icm, coil was ok...finally put in my stuff...and now the ignitor could be bad.
-Rod
it is also important the the ICU/Ignitor base plate is held to the dist. housing securely by the base plate screws.. this is the only source of a ground and the car won't start without the ICU held securely...
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I would just replace the ignitor, if tha screw was bouncing around, then chances are it made contact with the ignitor terminals and fried some internals.. I can't see this doing damage to the ECU or coil..
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92HB_HB
Acura Integra
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Feb 25, 2004 06:52 AM



