oil squirters in ls block
I was thinking about doing this while I had a the block out, but you're going to have to fab some spacers. Else the piston skirts will hit the squirters. Also you don't have much room for error. The spacers need to be around 1/8" thick and you'll need to put an anti-rotation hole in the spacers as well so the squirts don't swivel. It is a hassel, but now I wish I did it.
Why bother? I have a turbo'd b18c and I pulled and plugged the squirters. The oil under the piston just adds weight to the piston. No problems with overheating and it helps the oil pressure. I've been told by a couple of big time builders that most everyone plugs their squirters. After saying all this, I have seen it done. But in the location of the block your working at, you better be good. No room for error.
They cool the top of the piston. Piston temp are 450-550 (center) depending on piston metal and where on the piston your looking. Your oil should be around 215 so when the oil jets up to the piston the heat flows from hot (piston) to cold (oil). Heat from the piston is transferred to the oil and the piston is thus cooler. In other words, the oil "carries" away some of the heat. HTH
[Modified by b18bpwr, 3:55 PM 10/16/2001]
[Modified by b18bpwr, 3:55 PM 10/16/2001]
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OK, you asked for it....Drill the appropriate sized hole to intersect the oil gallery in the underside of the block. Fabricate (4) aluminum spacers to attach the oil squirters to. Be sure they are low enough so the piston skirts don't hit the squirter. Attach the spacers to the block with self tapping screws. Drill and tap the spacer block to accept the hollow squirter screws. This hole should ultimately line up with the hole you drilled in the oil gallery of the block.Drill a small anti-rotation dowell hole to properly locate the squirters. Install the squirter with the hollow bolt from Honda and you're done.
In the end, they should look like a Honda stock squirter, only sitting on top of the aluminum spacer.
Remember, if you are using forged aluminum pistons, you don't need the extra cooling as that piston controls heat much better than the cast pistons.
Obviously, this can only be done on a bare block out of the car and on the bench.
In the end, they should look like a Honda stock squirter, only sitting on top of the aluminum spacer.
Remember, if you are using forged aluminum pistons, you don't need the extra cooling as that piston controls heat much better than the cast pistons.
Obviously, this can only be done on a bare block out of the car and on the bench.
Thanks earl. Amazing what reading can do for a person.
Also, it's good to know some folks are running without them. Another alternative to protect the piston is a hpc coating. I think it's around 150 for the tops and sides.
[Modified by b18bpwr, 6:14 AM 10/17/2001]
Also, it's good to know some folks are running without them. Another alternative to protect the piston is a hpc coating. I think it's around 150 for the tops and sides. [Modified by b18bpwr, 6:14 AM 10/17/2001]
Better idea but if you spend $ for a forged piston, you won't need to do either. Plus the coating on the cast piston top will not make the ring lands any stronger because I don't think you can coat in that area.
ok, my advice, DON'T INSTALL THEM!!!
u don't need em, unless u road racing(ie: runnin your engine 8k+ all the time!) you will not need em.
This is why drag engine builders uninstall em, you really don't need em
u don't need em, unless u road racing(ie: runnin your engine 8k+ all the time!) you will not need em.
This is why drag engine builders uninstall em, you really don't need em
it also turns your pistons into a big oil pump!! no good for drag!! i'd say only do the squirters for extended high rpm driving.. daily drivers and draggers don't need em.. road racers with cast pistons should be a bit more leary tho..
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